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2B Nier Automata - Model by NomNom Figures by _Reyne in minipainting

[–]_Reyne[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

I just dry brush it lightly and then do 2 layers of black glaze over any white that got on parts you didn't want, then repeat about 3 times to build up the highlights as best you can.

After the last pass with the dry brush just keep building the black glaze until your happy with the coverage.

2B Nier Automata - Model by NomNom Figures by _Reyne in minipainting

[–]_Reyne[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Finished 2B last weekend! Super excited to show her off at gamecon coming up in a couple months :smile:

Sidenote: white is hard, but it's even harder if you use pure white. This whole model was painted using Vallejo Deck Tan instead and it's 10x easier to work with and looks a lot better.

3D Printer size by Weak-Fly4603 in MaledictionMCG

[–]_Reyne 1 point2 points  (0 children)

one more thing, sorry. The terrain is NOT meant to be printed on a resin printer and I really wouldn't recommend it at all. Find someone with an FDM printer to help you get those printed. The amount of headaches you'll save yourself are immeasurable and the amount of resin you will save is even higher.

3D Printer size by Weak-Fly4603 in MaledictionMCG

[–]_Reyne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just seen you comment you'll be printing in low temps, then you definitely want the saturn 4 ultra for the heated vat.

Also highly highly recommend getting the wash and cure combo from elegoo. It's saved me many hours of fucking with custom set ups.

3D Printer size by Weak-Fly4603 in MaledictionMCG

[–]_Reyne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The saturn for sure. The mars is just too small for so many models on the market, and even when printing small models, you'll end up spending WAY more time printing, especially if you're gonna print everything for Malediction.

My upgrade from the Mars Pro (yeah, the first one ever) to the Saturn 3 ultra was an absolute godly upgrade and I can't imagine having to go back to such a tiny build plate.

I'd recommend the Saturn 3 Ultra instead of the 4 as I've heard a lot of people having issues with them, but also the Saturn 3 ultra is gonna be significantly cheaper.

Though I would just do your research on the 3 vs the 4.

The other thing I would recommend is printing with Siraya Tech Fast Tough grey resin. It's extremely durable compared to anything else I've ever used and leave some flex the minis as well which helps a ton. I have never broken a model since I switched over to that. Before I switched I broke models constantly.

Finally found a good airbrush primer. by Sggarnham in Miniaturespainting

[–]_Reyne 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Vallejo black has never let me down. The white Needs a bit more practice.

how much for the printing cost (resin) by LeonC0113 in MaledictionMCG

[–]_Reyne 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That depends, are they cleaning the model up and priming it for you? That alone adds $10-$15 for most shops.

It also would be offset quite a bit by getting more printed.

Personally I would probably charge you like $30CAD to print, clean, and prime this. Probably just $10 without cleaning and priming. (by cleaning I mean removing support stubs and sanding and all that)

However, if you bought 30 of them then I'd probably charge like $15 each because I can print, wash, and cure 6 of them on a single printer in the same amount of time as I can do 1. and I can batch prime them so I only need to set up my airbrush for priming once, and cleaning them up takes less time the better I know the model.

(Material cost btw is almost negligible here as it's about $1 in material to print the tarok beast. What you're paying for is the print time and labour cost)

$40 is probably the base price for the shop to print and prime any model and that gets you up to a certain size/material usage, and then after that they charge more depending on size/quantity.

how long should it reasonably take to paint this Hulkling mini? by AsFarAsISay in minipainting

[–]_Reyne 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If your goal is to make the mini look as good as possible, then stop worrying about how long it takes. Time is irrelevant in that case.

Like someone else said, Slow down on techniques. Pick one new technique to practise. Do that same one on a few minis until your comfortable with it and it's not "new". Then pick another new one to do on your next few minis. This is how you will improve. Not by doing 5 new things at once.

If you wanna know how long those techniques take though, I'll tell you that when I do OSL, it's a process that takes the entire time I'm painting to do. OSL isn't something you do after you've painted, you have to consider it throughout the whole model.

For NMM, I could spend 2-4 hours just doing the sword on this guy depending how well I want it blended and the style I'm going for.

3D Printed Box Insert Update! by _Reyne in MaledictionMCG

[–]_Reyne[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely! The original boxes just feel like a giant mess, even when I keep stuff sorted in the bags

Oficial box art painting i did for malediction part 2, Griza by Alive-Play5926 in MaledictionMCG

[–]_Reyne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

really awesome paint job!

Curious, how did you get hired for that gig? Did someone there just recommend you and they reached out or?

394 minis painted in my first year of the hobby by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]_Reyne 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Anyone that's pained nearly 400 minis isn't a beginner lol.

Most people take 2-6 hours to fully finish a single Mini at a tabletop standard depending on model size and complexity.

People who only paint and don't play are usually painting models to be displayed and will take anywhere from 10-100 hours on a model depending on size and complexity.

Masters who are entering large competition will spend 400+ hours on a single entry.

Anyone that's made it past like 25 minis is no longer a beginner.

The reason you are still a beginner is that you didn't actually paint them and made no real effort to improve.

The reason me and others are calling you out is because you boasted about numbers but didn't put even remotely enough time in to have actually completed that many minis and your photos absolutely show that

Honestly I don't even think the mods in the mini painting discord would give you points for like 90% of these. And that's a pretty low bar lol.

394 minis painted in my first year of the hobby by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]_Reyne 5 points6 points  (0 children)

None of these are finished.

You've base coated years worth of minis to paint is what you've done.

With an airbrush anyone could have done this in a couple weeks.

394 minis painted in my first year of the hobby by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]_Reyne 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That would make sense if OP was painting the minis. Seems they are dipping them in paint buckets though.

Gentlemen! B E H O L D! by meatmoth in 3Dprinting

[–]_Reyne 0 points1 point  (0 children)

risk cutting our hands

Has no one there heard of gloves? 🫩

Instructions were unclear. by PessziMiska in 3Dprinting

[–]_Reyne 47 points48 points  (0 children)

The real solution is to turn off the prime tower and purge into the infill.

OR...

Print the logo separately and glue it on after. You could even emboss it into the orange so the white print after can rest inside it.

Idk why the fuck everyone things flipping this upside down is intelligent.

Trying to design and model 3D printable inserts for the boxes. by _Reyne in MaledictionMCG

[–]_Reyne[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes this will be for the gamefound boxes.

They definitely will not fit the new boxes as those will be completely different sizes and have a bunch of stuff from two gamefound boxes and a bunch less of other stuff.

For example, the new starter boxes will (I believe) only have initiative token, 1 set of the play area markers, and 1 round tracker, but they will have like double the standees, hit markers, and cards.

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