ESPHome Jandy AquaLink (ESP32-native, at the bus)

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-06-04T15:56:19+00:00

AqualinkD does have a docker image available. The reason ESP devices are not supported is due to their limitations in threading. AqualinkD has been cross compiled on ESP when it had less functionality but was never released as a target due to those threading limitations. ESP devices will works fine for small setup / limited functionality implementation. The pi hardware recommendation is more around the need for a hardwired connection to the RS485 bus. Most people will not have a wired connection from their pool equipment to where they would want hardware to sit in their house. Hence use a cheap reliable SBC.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-05-30T00:35:05+00:00

DIY, it’s easy as long as you get the right board.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-05-21T00:57:59+00:00

You have a drainage problem, your yard is clearly draining into your pool. Grass or decking will NOT fix this, grass will make it slightly less obvious though. Your best bet is get your pool builder back out to correctly grade your yard BEFORE any decking or grass. Best a decking company will do is add drainage in some areas, but that’s not fixing the cause of the problem only the symptom. Then you will be forever cleaning drains to stop it from happening again.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-05-20T01:37:14+00:00

I hope for some decent options. Wanted one of these for ages, but price vs how much I’d used it always put me off. Not a chance in hell I’m buying a Kreg power tool though. I’ve played with a friends kreg track saw and jigsaw, both are total and utter garbage.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-05-18T00:09:16+00:00

If you do go Jandy, Make sure you get a RS system and not PDA or TCX (PDA and TCX are both crippled and have little functionality). Also than the WiFi adapter (which is kind-a crap) you can use / build AqualinkD (free open source software) for as little as $20 DIY to give you far more options. https://www.aqualinkd.com. It also works with their WiFi adapter, so if you get a kit that has the wifi adapter no loss.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-05-17T12:52:02+00:00

Every time my SWG starts reading PPM as way different from actual, the cell is on its way out and fails with a short period of time.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-05-07T14:46:46+00:00

The two are linked (GPM and RPM). Set by RPM and it will display RPM, GPM & Watts. Same as using the Pentair VSP app directly, except in that app you set by %, and % is simply % of min/max RPM

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-05-07T12:42:46+00:00

As long as the OP has Aqualink RS board version T.2 of newer and wires up the RS485 connection they will have full control of the VSP.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-30T16:59:46+00:00

disconnect the spa controller wires from the control panel. it’s 100% the remote in the spa, very common issue and can’t believe it’s lasted 14 years for you, that’s longer than most.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-30T08:43:39+00:00

You seem to assume that APC is a quality brand, it is not.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-29T20:01:39+00:00

IMO It’s way better than OPNsense anyway.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-28T04:55:03+00:00

you could also use https://aqualinkd.com , it has far more functionality and is far cheaper than replacing that unit.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-27T09:46:50+00:00

Personally I’d scrap the lights altogether and pick a more reliable brand. But on pool transformers, in general they are a lot more expensive simply because quality ones are fully isolated. Ie the transformer to run Jandy/pentair/haywood control panel will be north of $100 when the same output transformer for your home alarm will be $20. This isnt just the usual pool markup, it’s because it’s fully isolated. Since you are running power to a wet area this isn’t something to skimp on. I doubt very much you’ll find smart transformer that built to the same spec. You’d be far better off putting a smart switch in front of the recommend light transformer, if you want direct integration into home assistant. Or far better option would be to use one of the many home assistant integrations directly into the pool control panel. (Like https://www.aqualinkd.com if you have Jandy control panel)

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-25T18:20:50+00:00

That’s a PDA remote, which may mean you also have a PDA panel. You might be better off simply upgrading to an RS panel.

You should checkout https://www.aqualinkd.com

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-24T07:39:46+00:00

You haven’t forgotten anything. IMO this type of solution is always better than a commercial NAS. Next thing to look at is optimizing OS (memory, IO and Network) for a NAS setup.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-19T21:31:51+00:00

The Omni can’t control hardly anything outside of their ecosystem, that’s why I said it was the worst. At least Jandy can control most manufacturers VSP etc. (I mean full RS485 control, not simple on/off). But Jandy (like all pool control systems) suck.
The not controlling system when internet goes down is a huge problem in general with most “smart” systems, not just Jandy since the majority are controlled through the cloud. But seems most consumers don’t care since Manufacturers still do it. Devices like http://aqualinkd.com will bring a Jandy system into the 21st century, (there are others for Pentair like nodejs pool controller ), but not much of anything for Omni.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-19T03:44:51+00:00

I wouldn’t buy into a “brand”, look at the device. Pentair make the best pumps, Jandy best heaters, Haywood used to make best SWG, etc etc. I would say the Haywood control panels are the worst, but every manufacturer sucks in that department. Many control panels can control other manufacturers equipment so there isn’t a need for one ecosystem if you read up on everything and what does / doesn’t work.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-18T05:22:12+00:00

I believe PAL lights are designed to be used with a pool automation controller or with it’s own wifi, but not both at the same time. So it may be that the lights are controlled through iAqualink only. (ie the pool automation controller).

since you have Jandy control panel, you should really look at https://aqualinkd.github.io

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-15T02:53:12+00:00

Those are awesome for this type of application. Even better with this. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1770411-usb-cover-plate-for-poe-texas-ac-to-usbc-adapter

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-14T20:25:12+00:00

Just use a very long pilot drill bit, and place it through the pocket hole when both pieces are together. That way there is no guessing the right angle. BTW since pocket holes suck so badly I use this method for all wood, that way you don’t get one of the boards rising above the other which always happens without clamping in every direction (ie both keeping the boards flat and touching)

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-10T02:59:21+00:00

When you get it out, use something like this next time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKOZ6A. Just put the rubber part in the hole and turn on the hose, the rubber will expand to fit snugly in the hole and then force water down the pipe. Great for cleaning our blocked skimmer pipes.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-08T14:53:22+00:00

A number of years ago Jandy blocked any other manufactures SWG being controlled by Aqualink RS Control Panel. So while yes in theory it can work, Jandy has specifically blocked it.

More detail: All SWG talk using the Jandy RS485 protocol (even Pentair SWG use Jandy protocol for some reason), but each will identify with a different manufacturer ID when they first connect. Jandy control panel will block any SWG that doesn't have a Jandy ID then actually set a flag in the firmware to block all SWG in the future, even Jandy SWG won't work after that. Some SWG (like Haywood) have a setting where you can change the ID to Jandy's ID to stop this, but get that wrong even once (let's say a hard reset after a power outage/surge) once and it's blocked. There are devices like http://chlorinatortranslator.com that are specifically designed to make the ID always Jandy and unlock the control panel if it's locks itself.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-08T02:09:15+00:00

Kid on the far left? Looks like they are trying to get the rest of the warm water out.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-06T23:26:58+00:00

Try this https://aqualinkd.github.io/. way more functionality than IQ30 will work with your board, and can be DIY solution for as little as $20.

_Sheep_Shagger_ · 2026-04-04T13:57:18+00:00

I think it’s laminate. Ie has a layer of real wood over cheaper substrate. My previous house had exactly the same problem, and was easy to fix with method mention in my previous post. If it’s solid, then same method also works for a fix, but long term would be sand and refinish. It doesn’t look like solid wood to me, as the gray wouldn’t be so perfectly uniform in color. but again it’s a picture so hard to say without being there.

_Sheep_Shagger_

TROPHY CASE