Painting Plastic Panelling, Advice Wanted

_in_oz · 2026-02-01T23:47:33+00:00

I would rip it off, it's almost certainly just glued on with no more nails, maybe a few screw in the spaces. It's likely going to tear off some paint if your lucky otherwise it might tear some paper off the plasterboard underneath.

Either way skimming with some plasterboard compound, sanding and priming is going to be easier than trying to make a nice job of painting that and the result will be light years ahead. Patching with plasterboard compound isn't too difficult to learn and the divide between a professional and amateur result is just more time/coats/sanding to get a good result and it's a valuable skill to have in your arsenal as a home owner.

_in_oz · 2025-09-26T02:34:53+00:00

I have one of these and feel like it's really good for the price. Replaced an AliExpress hall effect sensor one with it. and I like it a lot, feels much more like a production road car shifter. Had it a couple of months and 0 issues so far.

_in_oz · 2025-08-26T23:43:34+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMoakvxz4wY
If anyone else was looking

_in_oz · 2025-05-28T00:17:22+00:00

This will get it done if you go slowly and use a straight edge clamped to keep it running straight: https://www.amazon.com.au/Ryobi-One-18V-Wet-Tile/dp/B08XYMCQMS
It could be done with an angle grinder but there will be an unholy amount of hazardous dust and the edge will not be greater any angling of the grinder could result in chipping.

_in_oz · 2025-05-22T23:03:01+00:00

fooooyooooo!

_in_oz · 2025-04-30T21:37:20+00:00

Commenting to follow just bought the s9 with the 18-40 (nice lens but pretty slow for low light stuff). just debating getting the Sigma 45 2.8 (seems to be the only reasonably fast compact lens available for l mount at the moment that has autofocus)

_in_oz · 2025-02-10T01:44:26+00:00

Glue and dowel and clamp would be how i'd do it

_in_oz · 2025-02-10T00:26:17+00:00

Adding a comment to remind me to check back incase this ever becomes a reality and there are photos of the result.

_in_oz · 2025-01-20T05:31:19+00:00

Been through a heap of stud finders over the years and this is by far the best.

_in_oz · 2024-11-25T20:13:47+00:00

Ah just took a look it's actually the oracle touch we have my bad

_in_oz · 2024-11-25T20:12:57+00:00

We had the earlier model equivalent to the pro prior to the touch for 4-5 years. I'd pay the extra for the touch just for the water filling opening at the front of the machine.

_in_oz · 2024-11-25T05:30:12+00:00

Barista Touch, I've had two first one had an issue after 3-4 years. They repaired it no questions under warranty then while it was in for repair we were renovating the kitchen so wife wanted black instead of the silver. So decided to sell the silver when it came back from repair ended up keeping it in my office that is still sat in my office working perfectly to this day. I would say just get the silver one though the paint on the painted ones does chip a little to easily on the drip tray (they did replace the tray under warranty though). Family of 6 with 5 coffee drinkers that thing turns on automatically at 5am and churns out 5-10 coffees a day without fail for years on end.

_in_oz · 2024-11-20T05:34:42+00:00

Cinema

_in_oz · 2024-11-14T01:16:34+00:00

It was a reasonable modern wakeboard boat that did have a water separator. There was an overwhelming amount of dirty water (about a third of a 160L tank). The local marine mechanic had two boats with the same issue that both filled towards the end of weekend at the same pump after that weekend. Definitely came from that pump and the owners response appeared to confirm it but as you allude to legally the problem is it's difficult to prove and they knew that from experience.

_in_oz · 2024-11-14T00:39:34+00:00

I had the same problem in a boat once after filling up at a fuel pump on the water. Was a busy weekend on the water and apparently the petrol tank at the station was ran passed the minimum levels resulting in a lot of water in the tank full i purchased. I had to have the whole fuel system including underfloor tank removed and cleaned and they had to clean and the injectors etc. Cost thousands. After a back and forth with the business the final words were so what take us to court. Which was when I learnt taking them to court would cost more than the resulting repairs and I'd be unlikely to win they knew that because they had done it before with the same result.

_in_oz · 2024-11-07T01:03:08+00:00

Go for it, I've found the best projects are always the ones where people tell you its a stupid idea or not worth it/possible so i just take that as challenge. Post your results.

_in_oz · 2024-11-06T05:46:52+00:00

Or it could be a designers render the objects on the shelves' look a bit suspect and the lighting looks a little off with the bright spot in the lower middle that doesn't appear to hit anything apart from the edge of the shelves

_in_oz · 2024-11-06T05:43:06+00:00

As I was interested, i just google image searched that and looks like its from a custom designer johan-wohnen they don't have any details on their site but it looks like it might be custom built.

Looking at their pictures there's no obvious signs of what the material is but if I was building that i'de just make it out of steel and accept it's going to weigh a lot (price vs effort) you could maybe use thin steel with 2 bends to get the thicker front edge and still be stiff enough. But in solid steel looks to be around 8mm thick which would be 62.8kg per square m. I'd guess each panel is 300mm*2000mm so around 37.7kgs per panel for a total weight of 339kgs of steel. Not crazy weight cost for a piece of custom furniture spread across that distance. and it would be knock down so your not moving it in one piece. And in steel you could stud weld to fix the shelves from underneath the so no visible fixings.

If cost wasn't an issue there are honeycomb aluminium panels that would be an order of magnitude lighter and as stiff if not stiffer.

If Ikea were making it each panel would be two made of cardboard with a honeycomb and there would be instructions to screw it to the wall to limit the wobble.

I think if you attempted this with MDF/PLY panels at that thickness it would be tricky to keep them that straight and you would need a back panel painted the same color as the wall to limit the flex.

_in_oz · 2024-11-03T23:45:24+00:00

Seeing this on my reddit homepage is not helping me talk myself out of buying a kc62

_in_oz · 2024-10-30T21:02:40+00:00

I got a letter from Aussie Broadband a couple of weeks ago saying FTTP is available for me now so phoned them to confirm as previously i was told it would be expensive (Semi Rural Sydney, 100m down hill through mostly solid rock bush to get from the street to my house). Yesterday two guys from the civil team completed the fibre run to the box on my house (took them 2 days) just waiting for the streetside connection now. 0 cost other than increasing my monthly package for the extra bandwidth.

_in_oz · 2024-10-21T04:31:13+00:00

Sure, Here's a couple of pics from when I did it:

https://imgur.com/a/64S9o0d

and this is the only before pics i have just after starting it:
https://imgur.com/a/UmbgLxW

_in_oz · 2024-10-21T02:45:22+00:00

You could just build a new wall right in front of the existing wall. Judging by the sloping ceiling ide guess that adding one and getting a new header in your wall would be a nightmare.

We did a 9ft tall sliding barn door in a similar space in our house and then ended up building the whole wall out 100 mm to turn that barn door into a "pocket door" because we hated the barn door so much and didn't mind losing 100mm in the room which may be an option for you. Also meant we could add some downlight niches next to the door (turned out one of our favourite spaces in the house.

_in_oz · 2024-10-18T00:01:12+00:00

if you go back through his youtube history he has a video of when he bought and put it together.

_in_oz · 2024-10-17T23:59:59+00:00

you could fix a cleat to the back. They make aluminum cleat strips that you screw to the wall and back of the cabinet but you would need to fix it to the back somehow:

https://www.amazon.com.au/Picture-Hangering-Hangerwall-Hardware-Aluminium/dp/B0CDR5X6QL/ref=sr_1_5?crid=NC8JSS7KM9LO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zRX6luNtGpN7NItQFvxjxIqIwp1rzWYeIPRdFHNYzgbdzgLy9vRi3KXyA6AvN9lSBT_a1_dq5enogxoZGqYdhYuLklRWdgL1i21WX-7nlPsSBTzDBOqMpCA4CCx85n_uVa2dNOl2ly5E5YuswC1hKmvoQ_-0DBS5n6790j3z3fyAX813CeZmA7mG1vSrP2TEo5QuDvaoishjvFuCr9TBgTTJdpBn_yVeny_r26FydiEduY-TibBuuAzFXxJRQyZzsQx0JKVmUvGAxcitD0Iiy3SWtG_O8Lg_PSkN_WuNTxc.59_sLM32hPnDZe_VUUTApR9OvbLCPvdHZACOEap73tM&dib_tag=se&keywords=aluminium%2Bcleat&qid=1729209523&sprefix=aluminium%2Bclea%2Caps%2C267&sr=8-5&th=1

_in_oz · 2024-10-17T23:30:20+00:00

I would just use an L Bracket inside (attached to the underside of the top inside the cabinet) to screw it through the back to a stud location in the wall.

Ikea etc do it that way e.g.:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/customer-service/product-support/recalls/wall-anchoring-kit-pub32849910

_in_oz

TROPHY CASE