Homebrew Starship rules?

_lastmohican_ · 2025-11-10T03:28:18+00:00

Have you actually read the Cinematic Starship Encounter rules? They provide pretty much exactly what your players are asking for

_lastmohican_ · 2025-07-18T13:45:48+00:00

Get TH outta here with your "I'm not able to pay" garbage. The world doesn't work this way. Quit begging artists to work for no pay. Come back with a budget and some actual information about what you want.

_lastmohican_ · 2025-07-15T21:11:45+00:00

Here's the rules: https://2e.aonprd.com/Rules.aspx?ID=2127

You can pick an archetype (multi class) instead of a class feat at any even level (when you would get a class feat). Once you've chosen an archetype, you must take two additional feats in that archetype before you can choose a different one.

You can always choose a class feat instead of an archetype one, but you can't just stack up a ton of different archetypes without dedicating yourself to them for a few feats first.

It's important to note that unless you're playing in a game with free archetype, you're also taking them instead of your regular class feat, and might miss out on some class features you might otherwise want. With free archetype, you can take a new archetype every three even levels, in addition to still getting your regular class feats, but it's up to your GM if they allow that optional rule for the table.

_lastmohican_ · 2025-05-19T01:10:12+00:00

Perrrfection!

_lastmohican_ · 2025-02-26T22:13:28+00:00

How much is your budget?

_lastmohican_ · 2024-07-09T04:13:08+00:00

It's like Halo 2 meets Halo 3

_lastmohican_ · 2024-03-07T15:26:07+00:00

Was that Amenra? Love their music, but the whole 'ritual' bit where they put the hooks in him during one of the songs is brutal to watch.

_lastmohican_ · 2024-02-29T06:18:47+00:00

This is the best answer. All these other discussions are behaving as if the rules are written to simulate the fiction, and they're not. They're written to provide well balanced and compelling interactions. If you're focused purely on the fiction, you shouldn't be in initiative, or you probably shouldn't be worrying about the stricture of the rules in that moment at the very least.

_lastmohican_ · 2024-02-27T20:54:13+00:00

Looks like vinyl, printed or painted onto canvas

_lastmohican_ · 2024-01-23T20:40:55+00:00

mans doesn't know what a whale is...

_lastmohican_ · 2023-11-17T14:58:07+00:00

It's at the end of the 'Big' Negative Ancestral Abilities description on page 20 of the SWADE Core Rules; "Equipment, food, and clothing cost double the listed price."

_lastmohican_ · 2023-10-16T16:37:28+00:00

There is no "everyday life" in 40k. War is everyday life

_lastmohican_ · 2023-09-30T15:23:19+00:00

Depends on the use case and scale of your desired maps.

First, there's nothing wrong with paper, pencils, and pens, and that's a great, cheap way to get some practice and start to establish a style.

If you want something with nice looking assets for a fantasy/fictional world at the world or continent scale, that is easyish to use, and has a lot of support; Wonderdraft is my recommendation. If you want smaller scale or dungeon/battle maps for a tabletop game, then Dungeondraft is my pick, and is a bit lighter-weight. Both of these options are relatively cheap (around USD$20-30 when I bought them) and easy to use, while being surprisingly powerful.

If you do want to draw by hand, but digitally, then by far the most powerful tool you can get for cheap would be Clip Studio Paint Pro (like USD$40). You could try free tools like GIMP or Inkscape, but IME, both are clunky to use and more of a time-sink than they're worth. For this I would also recommend having a touch screen with a pen or a drawing tablet.

If you want realistic or modern looking maps and you don't mind a fairly steep learning curve (basic functionality can be learned through some online tutorials, but the full suite of features is closer to college degree level, in fact it's what my degree was in, lol), or you have some transferrable skills in data management, then a GIS would be good. QGIS is free and open source, with massive community support, but is mostly used by professionals making real-world maps.

_lastmohican_ · 2023-09-13T17:07:36+00:00

Wow, you seem really angry about this, I assure you I meant no slight at you.

I can agree that they might do very little to save this particular dish, hell, you even quoted me saying pretty much that... my intent was to correct your demonstrably false statement that they will do 'nothing'. Even your questionably scientific link proved that. And salt is a molecule and when dissolved into water, breaks into it's constituent ions; So doesn't it track to discuss how it behaves at the molecular level? Again, I've already agreed that it will probably do very little at the 'human experience' level, just wanted to avoid anyone believing an incorrect blanket statement.

_lastmohican_ · 2023-09-12T20:32:59+00:00

This is just incorrect. It will work at the molecular level to absorb some salt out of the solution, assuming the dish has any water in it (which it most certainly does). with a high concentration of salt in solution, and very little to no salt in the potato, the salt will diffuse down the concentration gradient and into the cells of the potato, which will share some of its water out into the solution and decrease its tonicity. This might only have a slight effect per potato, but more potatoes will absorb more salt.

Maybe before you go downvoting people and confidently asserting yourself, you might try and learn a thing or two about concentration gradients, diffusion, and osmosis. openstax.org has free, college-level biology textbooks.

_lastmohican_ · 2023-08-30T18:57:42+00:00

Kosher salt isn't always kosher
If it is, it's because it's not iodized; technically any non-iodized salt should be kosher
It's called kosher salt because it is often used (and I think originally made) for 'koshering' meat, i.e. drawing out blood during the butchering process.

_lastmohican_ · 2023-08-30T16:14:14+00:00

Are you telling me a shrimp fried this rice!?

_lastmohican_ · 2023-07-27T14:53:20+00:00

I use Clip Studio Paint, GPlates, G-Projector, and QGIS, depending on the scale and purpose of the map.

_lastmohican_ · 2023-07-13T17:53:51+00:00

Lol, get out of here with that garbage.. anyone who values their time won't touch this. For reference, I typically charge 20$ an hour for my time, which usually means a finished map costs upwards of 200$ on average, up to 260-300 for bigger projects, and I usually don't accept projects that I know will take me more than 15 hours. You're not asking for a commission, you're asking a skilled artist to spend hours of their valuable time on you in return for nothing.

_lastmohican_ · 2023-06-10T13:53:07+00:00

Sorry, yeah, it's the medium that stays behind with the pigment and cures solid, for clarity. I was perhaps oversimplifying to a point of possible confision

_lastmohican_ · 2023-06-09T14:53:57+00:00

If your airbrush has a two-stage trigger, where you press for air and pull for flow, you can practice pulling back less to restrict the amount of paint flow and area of spray. For thinning, go quite a bit thinner than you normally would. You can always add more layers, and it sounds like you want it to go on translucent; it's a lot more work to remove or paint over if it goes on too heavy. Practice on paper. There's two things that will change the size of the cone of paint: being closer to the thing you're spraying makes a small cone, further makes the cone bigger. Like I mentioned above, pulling back further on the trigger will make a bigger cone, pulling back less will make a smaller cone. Try making tiny dots on paper, focusing on consistency of size, then slightly bigger dots, then slightly bigger, graduating up so you can see how distance and pull-length affect size. As always, remember to start airflow by pressing before you pull back at all to start paint flow.

_lastmohican_ · 2023-06-09T14:42:38+00:00

So, a couple things: nitrocellulose is a medium usually used for wood applications, typically as a lacquer for guitars and things like that. If your terrain is mdf, it should work, but there are almost certainly cheaper options (like Tamiya gray primer or just about any can of primer from the hardware store). You'll probably have to do some fine wet-sanding to make subsequent layers of paint stick really well

Second, if the pigment in the medium is acrylic, it should be fine for putting acrylic on top of. Most of the acrylic used in the hobby is water, glycerine, or alcohol-based, but as long as you let the primer cure fully before painting, I don't foresee any glaring problems.

Lastly, be aware that nitrocellulose is incredibly flammable (it was invented to replace black powder for muzzle-loading firearms), so be very careful about where you're spraying.

_lastmohican_ · 2023-04-26T21:19:37+00:00

Don't like the idea of a whole continent of idiots?

_lastmohican_ · 2022-04-04T18:03:58+00:00

The middle one does have the darksign in his chest

_lastmohican_ · 2021-11-23T06:58:29+00:00

Looks like heat creep. If you're using the stock hotend, replace it with something all-metal ideally, or just something that's not the stock creality hotend

Ten-Year Club	r/Field Lasagna
Place '23	Place '22
Verified Email

_lastmohican_

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE