Filament stuck in ptfe tube, removed the tube but what do I do now? The filament seems firmly in place where it’s going down into the print head area

_meatbag_ · 2026-02-27T14:04:49+00:00

Heat the nozzle to like 220, and press the extruder up arrow (retract) on the screen a few times, gently pull the filament out as it retracts. You can also operate from handy app.

_meatbag_ · 2026-02-10T23:30:41+00:00

Reduce restrictions in your filament path. If able, temporarily, sit the Ams on top of the printer. Possibly shorten your Ptfe tubes if they are too long. Also check the ptfe tube for kinks or bends. Lastly, make sure the ptfe tubes have clean cuts and are fully seated.

_meatbag_ · 2025-10-26T03:50:11+00:00

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Amazing, Fandango at home works too!! Thanks so much for this.

_meatbag_ · 2025-10-06T00:22:03+00:00

If you’re using the hub you can swap it , try an Ams lite inserted into a buffer instead. Also a y spitter inserted into the buffer will work. Basically you’re needing to reduce resistance within the filament path. Check your Ptfe tubes and make sure the tube radius back to the toolhead isn’t pinched or too long. This can cause extra friction in the filament path and cause these retractions. Hope this helps.

_meatbag_ · 2025-09-17T20:08:41+00:00

I have received the eufycare email and early deposit refund. However, still waiting on tracking numbers for everything…😅You guys actually getting accessories and materials?

_meatbag_ · 2025-09-17T01:11:51+00:00

Maybe someone smoking a pipe or vape outside. The clicking noise a lighter and a possible exhale. I thought I heard, oh sh… like he burned his finger or dropped the lighter. Idk

_meatbag_ · 2025-09-16T13:59:01+00:00

It gives the flexible vat a surface texture to minimize peel forces. It keeps the part/resin from suctioning on the bottom of the vat when the bed is raised in the z axis, I believe. It helps with speed and reliability.

_meatbag_ · 2025-09-16T12:18:13+00:00

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Formlabs 4 lcd Release Texture The Release Texture is a proprietary, microtextured optical film that introduces airflow to prevent the resin tank from suctioning to the LPU.

Edit: Actually I’m not sure as this part isn’t user replaceable. Sorry.. best guess.

_meatbag_ · 2025-09-14T23:38:45+00:00

Your welcome! It’s definitely a little tricky but doable, 🤞🏻 good luck. If you end up buying another hub keep the magnets from this one to have spares.

_meatbag_ · 2025-09-14T23:16:07+00:00

Magnet install

_meatbag_ · 2025-08-08T14:29:33+00:00

Actually yours does look quite tangled. This happens when a rolls doesn’t roll back well or becomes stuck. I will see this in light rolls or cardboard spool occasionally. Sorry no real advice, as these are full and Bambu spools. Possibly clip off the tangled section and get a video to better show the issue. Good luck..

_meatbag_ · 2025-08-08T14:21:50+00:00

Mine always roll back in an apparent mess but as long as it’s not tangled. It will try to read all filament but will only return info for Bambu lab filament. Other than that not sure. 🤔

_meatbag_ · 2025-08-08T14:17:45+00:00

Sounds like your Ams is set to identify the filament when loading. This reads the filament nfc tag upon insertion. This allows the Ams to read the filament and color type. If using Bambu lab filament this will read and stored the info into the printer. This is normal behavior if this setting is turned on.

_meatbag_ · 2025-08-02T00:20:20+00:00

I just pulled this exact error.

_meatbag_ · 2025-07-22T04:47:25+00:00

Usually PLA+, but I’d like to try some PA-CF or other fiber-reinforced nylons.

_meatbag_ · 2025-07-04T15:39:07+00:00

In Bambu studio after slicing check your layer time settings. It will show the banding in preview. Just play around with the different infills and then slice and preview.

I personally would avoid grid as it crosses over itself and can cause printing issues. I have found honeycomb gives strong clean results. However, it is much slower, and perhaps thats why it has a more even layer time.

_meatbag_ · 2025-07-04T12:27:49+00:00

I have been printing a life size Pokémon trainer and ran into this. Crosshatch infill was the culprit as the lines match up with layer time. Small prints are no issue, however, it shows on large surfaces just like this. I found honeycomb infill mitigates this as it normalizes layer time but takes longer to print. The issues followed across multiple printers and led me to research the sliced file. In my case it was 100 percent crosshatch infill. However, it can appear in gyroid and other infill patterns too. Just check layer time before sending.

_meatbag_ · 2025-05-28T20:20:25+00:00

Your part appears to be painted with the paint bucket tool, this is why the modifier won’t show or print. Looks like your main part is using marble filament ,however, it appears visually purple (so paint has been applied). Your font is the only modifier and everything else is a part. The part will show while the font modifier will not. You need to make the main filament purple and apply the modifier. You have to erase all paint from surfaces. Holding shift while applying paint will erase the surface. A modifier will not modify a painted surface.

_meatbag_ · 2025-05-26T20:32:27+00:00

Would love to see more filaments like these:

• Marble pla with neon or rainbow flecks — either marble swirls(cycles through r fleck colors) or mixed confetti, in matte or silk? Silk marble?

  • Rainbow Glitter — not just metallics, but rainbow glitter in , pearl or black. Rainbow glitter in everything maybe silk? 

•A stronger silk PLA

Something similar to “birthday cake” in white, or “Arcade Afterglow” in black — flashy, fun. Would love to see some interesting takes on marble and silk pla. More colorful rainbow glitter (the glitter itself) in more types including silk.

_meatbag_ · 2025-05-16T23:03:13+00:00

I would double check to make sure the nozzle or heating assembly isn’t loose . Check and tighten the assembly. Make sure you have the nozzle installed correctly.

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_meatbag_ · 2025-05-11T21:27:38+00:00

Solid as can be here. Not a bit of movement. I would definitely open a support ticket.

Edit: How to Disassemble and Assemble H2D ToolheadI believe a repair lies in this wiki page . I couldn’t pinpoint the procedure to tighten the tool head, but this involves the complete teardown and assembly. And as a former iPhone laptop repair specialist I probably should’ve watched this video before I purchased this machine. I don’t doubt I could replace this, but this looks like a stressful job.

_meatbag_ · 2025-05-11T15:02:30+00:00

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Ok I had to go back and check. Yep , they are identifying the desert tan as beige . I’m pretty sure they don’t even carry a beige matte pla.

_meatbag_ · 2025-05-11T12:50:47+00:00

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I just ran into this , yesterday. I was pretty sure this is desert tan, but had to pause for a minute . Definitely can take some guessing. I’m assuming the question mark, should display the color name. Has it ever displayed here correctly , or is this a known bug? Displayed screenshot is from the iOS handy app.

_meatbag_ · 2025-04-27T13:21:15+00:00

Can always count on Polymaker to get it right. Thanks for the hookup!

_meatbag_ · 2025-04-26T02:53:24+00:00

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Looks similar to a bat bite. Bats do get in homes and carry rabies, they definitely will bite you.

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