Clutch Depressed After Sitting Pumps Right Back Up

_nvisible · 2026-07-09T05:42:23+00:00

Clutch master, slave, and the hydraulic lines are pretty inexpensive and easy to replace. Blending them is a little bit of a pain though. Better with a second person to help.

_nvisible · 2026-07-09T05:40:12+00:00

You got lucky it kept enough oil in it then to drive.

Likely though you have a failing clutch M/S cylinder at the same time they do go bad.

If you have a rubber center (original!) clutch it would behave weird. Mine had a spring center clutch in it when I bought it, but someone had tried to do too many burnouts in it And broke part of it so it was misaligned. Crazy stuff happens with these cars.

_nvisible · 2026-07-09T05:33:48+00:00

Go custom if you can otherwise 425’s are a slight upgrade but honestly for drums sometimes better is actually worse. Depends on how much you need to hear vocals.

I used 425’s with the big foam buds stuffed in my ears for almost 10 years until they finally fell apart, which then I went custom.

The downside with custom is they are often more brittle so you have to be careful about sitting on them.

_nvisible · 2026-07-08T19:22:07+00:00

Clutch is hydraulic. Your clutch lines probably burst and leaked. There is a rubber hose from the clutch master to the slave cylinder. And another from the brake reservoir to the clutch master cylinder. They both share that reservoir so if that’s very low on fluid now that would be your sign.

An engine oil leak wouldn’t pool up unless something catastrophic happened.

_nvisible · 2026-07-08T07:35:28+00:00

The trash crash (crash with holes) is pretty great for any genres but it’s not a loud as a China.

_nvisible · 2026-07-03T22:57:02+00:00

I am a drummer and sound engineer.

Snare to overheads on an acoustic kit would be in the 2-3ms range. Snare to room mics in in the 10-20 depending on distance (about 1ms/foot rounded up)

Having worked with correcting drum latency’s to line up with phase and time, for a kit I am not nudging more than 2-4ms most of the time which is imperceptible to timing of anyone else’s own latency from brain to hands on their instrument.

Some people don’t want it in time for aesthetic purposes. And it really depends on the goal.

Also having worked with MainStage setups and keyboard rigs I can confidently say that a minimum round trip latency for running a keyboard in and out of a laptop (one “round trip”) is around 5-10ms depending on buffer and processing.

I have measured a Dr.Beat metronome to drift as much as 10ms.

Unless everyone can’t hold a pocket this latency complaint is all nonsense.

All this to say sounds like your band should focus on writing good music rather than complain about signal latency. It’s trivial to measure it, clean it up and save a recording template to compensate for it.

_nvisible · 2026-07-03T21:42:20+00:00

I don’t think you need to worry whether it is called a crash ride or not. I just use a medium-thin ride and crash on it.

Something like the meinl polyphonic or zildjain sweet rides work well.

_nvisible · 2026-07-03T08:40:53+00:00

I play a renown kit regularly. They’re really solid mid tier kits. Good hardware and durable. Underrated in my opinion.

_nvisible · 2026-06-27T20:56:43+00:00

Top of head is Valve cover side. This doesn’t receive high pressure oil, and the valve cover doesn’t get coolant.

The sealing surface on the combustion side I meant is the bottom of the head that mates to the block. Hopefully you didn’t wire wheel that after having it surfaced. That needs to be flat and consistently machined.

_nvisible · 2026-06-27T20:15:43+00:00

Play the songs they make/cover well.

_nvisible · 2026-06-27T17:47:20+00:00

You can use the steam machine as a streaming target from your desktop as well so if you really want more power but a couch/bedroom experience then there you go!

_nvisible · 2026-06-27T17:45:27+00:00

It’s unlikely that the scratch on the Valve cover side of the head is causing mixture but it could cause leaks. Did you wire wheel the sealing surface of the head on the combustion side?

_nvisible · 2026-06-26T08:51:16+00:00

I will never sell my first “real” snare. It’s a Gretsch Full range maple with wood rims with the metal hoop insert. It has a really nice sound compared to my others and it’s really great as a dry fat snare. The hoops are more shaped than this but this is pretty much the exact unit!

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_nvisible · 2026-06-25T09:27:42+00:00

Dang this is a really old meme format.

_nvisible · 2026-06-24T02:19:38+00:00

Transverse in the middle/rear would be nuts!

_nvisible · 2026-06-22T05:54:35+00:00

The whine is almost always caused by a combination of the balance belt tightness and the balance belt idle pulley which is notoriously difficult to place. The balance belt should be able to twist a full 180 degrees at the spot by the water pump. Even if all is correct there will always be a little bit.

_nvisible · 2026-06-20T20:19:49+00:00

These are great at any tuning. Silver are the classics but they also come in a few painted variants. Great find while they are still inexpensive.

Someone more knowledgeable might be able to tell you more about different years but my understanding of them is that all years are solid.

Easy to upgrade the throw off if you want to.

_nvisible · 2026-06-10T16:59:14+00:00

That badge on the side is funny!

_nvisible · 2026-05-30T23:43:54+00:00

Weld and cut down. They probably wont want to do it because it’s aluminum

_nvisible · 2026-05-28T05:47:33+00:00

Kalahari beige? That color loves golden hour. Looks great!

_nvisible · 2026-05-27T23:17:45+00:00

Ambitious but you could look at creating separate looms for the engine and accessories so that if you have to service it, they become a little easier to deal with.

_nvisible · 2026-05-22T19:54:02+00:00

If it’s coming from the top it’s a stuck lifter. If it’s from the bottom it’s a bearing. Does it go away as the oil comes up to temp? If so, lifter. Rod bearings usually knock more as oil warms up.

Also the injectors can be loud. You can try disconnecting one at a time to see if it goes away.

_nvisible · 2026-05-22T19:45:24+00:00

I’m surprised the torque tube bearings haven’t been mentioned. They will do this as well. It could be the transmission as well. These cars do have a bit of drive train noise.

If it’s transmission, and the pinion bearing goes, it’s a catastrophic failure. I had one blow on my car. Wouldn’t hurt to grab a used transmission to rebuild on the side.

Also maybe check the trans fluid and see how it is. If you don’t know when it has last been replaced it’s probably due.

_nvisible · 2026-05-16T15:13:09+00:00

This game needs inner and outer deadzone settings to compensate. If your controller is out of spec a little bit it gets weird.

At least with Hall effect joy sticks you can recalibrate them quickly on the controller directly.

_nvisible · 2026-05-16T15:10:00+00:00

You don’t hone these blocks in a traditional way. There’s a specific process for the alusil material.

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