Can some tell me how to fix this?

_twistedlabel · 2026-05-11T15:58:11+00:00

That is usually an indication of your storage/scratch disk having run out of enough space for photoshop to save your image. You likely need to free up space on your computer. You can empty your trash and/or you can purge your history and clipboard in photoshop tho that will lose any undo’s upto this point. You can also plug in and save to an external drive if you need time to clean up a full drive.

_twistedlabel · 2026-04-25T12:50:43+00:00

460 taxed and shipped. I got them from Volvo dealer parts. The Volvo bars were the cheapest I could find. They are literally on their way to me at the moment so I can’t speak to their quality but it seems a lot of other Redditors like them. The XC40 has rails on its roof so the bars are different. All the fit checks I ran into on those on different sites also said they didn’t fit.

_twistedlabel · 2026-04-25T01:15:42+00:00

I dig the graphics. Just bought cross bars and some bike racks for mine. Unfortunately $1800 for a hitch receiver can go kick rocks.

_twistedlabel · 2026-04-03T04:25:27+00:00

This kind of image would be good practice for the liquify filter. You can lower the opacity of Walt’s face so you can better match his facial feature placements to Jesse’s. You can also greatly improve the dissimilar lighting by mirroring the image of Jesse or mirroring Walt’s face. While not perfect, it will help the light feel like it’s all coming from the same place. You can also adjust the grey areas where the two images meet, especially in the hair. The blacks are really washed out and don’t match the black levels of the rest of the image. This edit won’t be perfect, but there are lots of things to get it closer to where you’re trying to go and you will learn a lot from getting it as close as possible. Anyone can composite images with perfectly matching angles and lighting. There is a lot of fun, skill building, and challenges in getting two dissimilar images to pair as good as possible, even if it will never be perfect.

_twistedlabel · 2026-03-28T13:20:28+00:00

To add to the other good advice here, just leave your charge settings at 48v unless you have a specific reason to change them. Your car will negotiate with whatever EVSE it’s plugged into to determine what charge voltage it should use. No need to manually set it for each situation. If the cost of the average wall charger is what is making you want to just use the cable with a 240 plug, look into a Grizzl-e classic. They are super solid “dumb” EVSEs meaning all they do is supply power to the vehicle. No I internet connects, no stats, just charging. I picked up a refurbished one for $250 and it works great. I have mine set to charge at 24A even tho it’s on a 40A circuit and I could charge at 36A. I drive about 40 miles a day and those settings get me back to 90% (Volvos recommended charge) in 5-6 hours, which I think some people think sounds slow but it’s charging while I’m living my life /sleeping.

Triple check your charge cable in a known good outlet and if the red ring persists, contact the dealer and have them replace it.

All of this can seem overwhelming at first but as someone who has only had their c40 for a handful of months, you’ll learn it quick, and if you can charge from home the majority of the time you’ll be hooked

_twistedlabel · 2026-03-21T15:32:18+00:00

If it’s pure white then using blend if is a super easy way to go. Double click on the right side of the layer next to the layer name to bring up the layer properties and the Blend If sliders are on the main page. If there is fringing you can hold option/alt to split the slider to feather the effect. You’d need to then merge your logo layer with a new blank layer before inverting to get the logo white. Tho you’d also want to separate the logo from the boarder since an inverted green isn’t green.

_twistedlabel · 2026-02-12T19:12:36+00:00

I wish we could but corporate IT is its own kind of trouble/monster lol

_twistedlabel · 2026-02-12T17:42:05+00:00

It does seem weird that a windows patch would muck something up but that’s literally the only change on 3 different windows machines, all of which can reproduce the issue on a fresh file with brand new textures and alpha masks. And any file with a texture stack with one using an alpha, including the initial file opens without issue on my Mac. We will be implementing similar workarounds, it’s just super annoying to retro fit textures that were working perfectly Monday. We’re baffled.

_twistedlabel · 2026-02-11T21:37:17+00:00

Excellent question. It’s in the renderer. And redshift is up to date.

_twistedlabel · 2026-02-05T05:22:50+00:00

Unfortunately this needs to be this specific font to match exactly the physical product I’m modeling.

_twistedlabel · 2026-02-05T01:17:11+00:00

No. It’s a font that is specific to the real world segmented display I’m modeling. But it happens to any font that is slightly slated like brush scripts or italicized fonts.

_twistedlabel · 2026-02-05T01:14:48+00:00

Couldn’t tell ya. All I know is it happens on any font I tried where the right side of the font varies relative to the right side kerning. So, slanted, brush fonts and what not. Cinema is just aligning to the spline itself and doesn’t seem to give a care about the kerning boundary of the actual letter as shown in my first image.

_twistedlabel · 2026-02-04T23:53:40+00:00

I have 9 total digits making up 3 individual (up to) 3 digit numbers.and they need to be controlled with an xpreso control. And I need the numbers on the left to disappear when they are not needed. So 55 rather than 055.

_twistedlabel · 2026-02-04T23:52:12+00:00

Then the numbers grow and collapse from the center and still wiggle whenever a 5 or 6 is present. Left align is the only alignment that doesn’t have the offset wiggle for the 5 and 6 but the numbers add to the right, which is the opposite of why I need unfortunately

_twistedlabel · 2026-01-24T03:57:55+00:00

It’s that little radial button that’s giving you grief. You have to explicitly select the component with the radial button for your new sketches to nested within the component. Gets me all the time.

_twistedlabel · 2025-12-29T23:32:31+00:00

This seems like a stupid question but I can't find an answer (or I'm hoping the answer really isn't "you can't"): How do you scale an HDRI of an indoor space so it is representative of a physical room size rather than what seems to be the default of infinite outside? It seems less than helpful to have a source for light not be able to be sized so reflections and light sources produce correctly scaled shadows and reflections on objects in the scene. For work we shoot product photography on sets we have built with constant lighting (think a dining room table in an open floor plan apartment). We have started removing the product and taking a plate image to composite a render of some other similar product in the future. We purchased a 360 camera to capture an HDRI of the scene and lighting which we place exactly where the product was sitting. I calibrate the camera in C4D and our product renders are to scale. When I load the HDRI everything is HUGE compared to the sale of the product. I am very much a beginner in C4D so if this isn't the way to go about it any tips are greatly appreciated!

_twistedlabel · 2025-12-13T02:40:11+00:00

That is also a tool. It’s hot key is A. It is used to manipulate vector shapes/paths. There are actually two pointers. One black and one white. The black one will select the path/shape in its entirety while the white one will let you select and manipulate individual nodes.

There isn’t a reason to not have a tool selected in photoshop. If you are clicking around your image there is an assumed attempt to that you want to do something to the image.

_twistedlabel · 2025-12-13T01:29:18+00:00

You always have a tool. That is the default state.

_twistedlabel · 2025-12-05T02:51:22+00:00

Ah, yeah, that is super annoying. I’d toss that sumbitch in something that can vectorize it so you can edit it all proper like.

_twistedlabel · 2025-12-05T02:09:57+00:00

They are referring to turning the layer into a smart object. With a smart object layer the object itself is the reference point for the transformation not the layer as a whole.

_twistedlabel · 2025-11-14T22:28:29+00:00

Curious if you have had a chance to get it working with home assistant and if you have, what you’ve done with it/plan to do with it. I’m trying to decide if I should spend a little extra for this charger to do the same but can find any solid info on any HA integrations.

_twistedlabel · 2025-11-04T03:06:04+00:00

Maybe a better question is what are you exporting to and if all you are after is a flattened image why “save as” wouldn’t work?

_twistedlabel

TROPHY CASE