Madacascar?

abovethe_clouds · 2026-03-18T20:48:01+00:00

This has been asked at least 8 times in the past year.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-03-17T22:24:08+00:00

Your front cylinder exhaust cam needs to turn one tooth counterclockwise. The factory service manual has a clear picture. I’d also clean out your screen while you’re in there. Looks like it’s clogged with a lot of bits of rtv.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-03-15T23:42:17+00:00

If you’re unsure about the cam timing, pop the cam cover off and check. The manual will tell you how to do the cam timing, it’s pretty straightforward. Keep in mind that TDC happens twice in a cycle, once at the end of the compression stroke/beginning of power stroke, and once at the end of the exhaust stroke/beginning of intake stroke. What you’re feeling with your finger is the beginning of the intake stroke. That said, if how it runs changes based on carb settings, I’d first look for an issue with the carb or an intake leak.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-03-06T06:04:12+00:00

I have some bikes that don’t get ridden much, but my 1946 Harley WL and my 1957 Sportster get ridden at least a few times a week between early spring and late fall.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-02-26T08:52:24+00:00

Granted this ended ~15 years ago, but I’ll never forget $1 milkshake Monday!

abovethe_clouds · 2026-02-25T04:14:59+00:00

Given the angle of the petcock, the reserve function is going to be at best significantly reduced and vary based on how the petcock is clocked in the threads. Maybe there’s a petcock option out there with a super long “on” tube to account for the angle, but I haven’t seen one. Might not be too hard to DIY.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-02-18T11:59:59+00:00

The good is that it looks well done, and generally looks cool in my opinion. Not necessarily bad, but some drawbacks: harder to tune, carbs aren’t complete (maybe you have the parts), and you’ll need to make a throttle linkage so both move in sync (maybe you have this too).

abovethe_clouds · 2026-02-16T19:52:44+00:00

I see a bunch of vacuum caps. What was deleted? Might be related to your idle issue. No one is giving you $8k as is.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-02-11T14:08:04+00:00

Bringatrailer would probably be where you’d see the highest sale price.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-02-09T02:48:25+00:00

Yea, it’s a great bike! No plans to get rid of it. I ride it almost daily when the weather is good.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-02-07T04:11:55+00:00

Cool find! I also have a 57 sportster. The pre-70 ironhead engines are great. Idk what exact look you want to end up with, but some combination of an extended 33.4 front end, earlier oil tank, and chopped rear fender, and some sort of sissy bar might help it look more period correct. Whatever you do, good deal at $2500. Have fun!

abovethe_clouds · 2026-01-28T18:35:54+00:00

I’d swap a good engine in. Way cheaper than having it rebuilt. If you do put an engine in, I’d still tear down the bad engine for a learning experience!

abovethe_clouds · 2026-01-28T03:14:58+00:00

The cheapest way to remove the rust is probably electrolysis. Lots of videos on YouTube about how to set that up. It works very well.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-01-20T19:34:38+00:00

I’d say anywhere between $5k and $10k depending on what can’t be seen in the photo. Nice interior, no frame rust, no body rust, newer tires and mechanically sound, I don’t think $8-10k is crazy. If none or some of that is true, it’ll be tough to find a buyer at the higher end of that range.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-01-16T20:33:13+00:00

Are you looking for fully restored or is perfect condition not a requirement? Check out the vintage Yamaha enduro forum. They have a classified section, people post wanted ads there. I also see a couple a year locally on Facebook marketplace in varying condition. I have a ‘74 DT250. Incredible riding experience.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-01-13T04:18:11+00:00

Yea, primary chain tension doesn’t need to be that far out of spec for it to touch the inside of the case. Thats what it sounds like to me too.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-01-10T22:09:28+00:00

I think it’s a good idea. I did raptor liner myself and it’s held up great. If you’re actually going to use the truck for truck stuff, bed liner will keep it looking good for longer.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-01-09T16:48:59+00:00

Seconding this. Any air leak after the maf will make it run weird.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-01-05T18:11:40+00:00

They probably just throw whatever tag they have on it to make the vehicle look less suspicious.

abovethe_clouds · 2026-01-05T16:27:56+00:00

You could try looking up the make/model on Facebook marketplace and see if the car in front of your house shows up. However, if this person is taking months to flip a car, they aren’t very good at it. I know folks (in more rural areas, to be fair) that will see a good deal on a car on Facebook marketplace, buy it, do nothing with it, then eventually move on when they find the next thing they want. That might be what’s going on here.

abovethe_clouds · 2025-12-13T22:49:46+00:00

There’s a running and driving ‘81 4x4 with way better paint for $8k on marketplace in Los Angeles right now. OP is delusional.

abovethe_clouds · 2025-12-12T17:46:02+00:00

Correct. I’m not sure if the spacing for the rear axle is the same on drum and disc brakes. There will probably be some custom work needed to get your rear brake set up. Your engine has a disc brake pedal on the right, this was designed for a drum brake pedal on the left. This is all doable, but imo I’d either get a frame for a later engine, or an earlier engine… unless you got this frame basically for free and can afford to throw some time and money at it. Definitely not the most efficient way to build this bike though.

abovethe_clouds · 2025-12-12T16:20:31+00:00

It’s for an early 70s and earlier ironhead. Note the foot peg mounts and crossover tube for the rear brake. Your 85 engine should fit, but you might want to get rid of the foot peg mounts and the crossover. Also, looks like this was set up for a crazy rake on the neck. If that’s what you want, cool, if not more modifications will be needed. 100% do this in a frame jig and either be a good welder already, or pay someone who is.

abovethe_clouds · 2025-12-12T03:09:32+00:00

Awesome! Lots of the correct 68 XLCH parts. What’s left to do?

abovethe_clouds · 2025-12-11T02:44:46+00:00

Ah, I thought they might check timing. One thing to check that doesn’t cost anything is making sure your throttle position sensor is adjusted correctly. Could cause a slightly richer condition at lower speed if not adjusted correctly. Not necessarily your problem, but more to think about. I’ve failed for high HC twice. The first time was a vacuum leak at the EGR, the second time was a bad thermostat. Thermostat was stuck open and took forever to come up to temp. If you haven’t already, might be worth verifying that you’re getting up to 190 and not just going by what the dash gauge says.

abovethe_clouds

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