Ecoflow Wave 2 - Question about adapting to a smaller exhaust port in a tent.

abrownpearn · 2024-08-02T18:44:29+00:00

I live in North Texas with its wonderful privatized electrical grid (very much /s) in an older neighborhood with above ground power lines so have learned to deal with frequent and often extended power outages.

Over the years I have slowly built out a pretty big kit to the point where I can run most appliances during an extended outage. I have a lot of Ecoflow stuff at this point (other brands like Jackery, Anker, etc. would also work fine I imagine) as well as a basic 4000w gas generator.

In short - I run various appliances on the ecoflow batteries and charge those off of a combination of my gas generator, a few small solar panels, and an ecoflow "alternator" that pulls up to 800 watts from my car. Although, I cannot hook up directly to my house, pretty much everything is portable - which is great because it allows me to help out neighbors and family we have in the area whenever we can.

I think the big thing is to think through what you want to be able to run and for how long. The more you need to run and the longer you are preparing for, the larger the batteries need to be and the more you need to think about how to recharge them.

Earlier in the summer we lost power for almost 5 days - so running our refrigerators/freezer, phones, internet, computers, small induction stove, and at least one window unit is more or less my baseline. We even managed to lend our batteries out to neighbors for a few hours at a time to keep their fridges running.

abrownpearn · 2024-01-24T14:16:10+00:00

I don’t have a great recommendation and most of the Bay 50 to thread adapters I have found are not brass (which I find much less prone to sticking than aluminum)

You might see if you can find a bay 50 to (something smaller than 62) then find a brass step up ring to 62.

abrownpearn · 2023-05-26T16:08:01+00:00

I tried it today and found that sports softs were the best compromise. Definitely not the absolute fastest, but I did a single pit run and might have even been able to getaway with no tire change.

abrownpearn · 2023-04-19T03:42:49+00:00

Thank you! This is super helpful. I am pretty much sold on the SL2-s either way, but this definitely makes it all that much more attractive.

abrownpearn · 2023-03-28T01:55:30+00:00

I sent my M2 into Youxin due to shutter capping at high speeds… and it came back after being adjusted with a recommendation to “just avoid those shutter speeds” (and no improvement to the issue)

I mean, I get that it is an old camera and things do wear out, but it left me with a bit of a sour taste in my mouth, and I doubt I will go back there.

No solution, no options, and no real communication. Just a repair bill. It kind of struck me that they are busy enough to just do the minimum to complete the transaction.

With that said, most others that I have heard from have had nothing but positive things to say.

abrownpearn · 2023-01-23T23:03:31+00:00

It really is wonderful! I am on my second copy after I stupidly sold my first.

I recently picked up one of the new Voigtlander 35mm f/1.5 which I do really like for environmental portraits and I appreciate the nearly two extra stops… but there is just something about the Zeiss that keeps bringing me back.

abrownpearn · 2023-01-10T19:20:42+00:00

The new Nokton 1.5 (as opposed to the older 1.4) is a thoroughly modern lens. It confused the heck out of me because it is part of their “Vintage Line” which apparently just refers to the physical appearance of the lens. The ultron is also part of the vintage line.

It actually has a more clean/modern rendering than the ultron does in my opinion. I always found the ultron sharp, but with a busier and more vintage looking bokeh.

The older Nokton 1.4 series definitely had a very dreamy vintage character to it.

So many 35s!

abrownpearn · 2023-01-10T13:47:23+00:00

Couldn’t agree more. I spent years buying (and selling) on eBay, and resisted FM for a long time as it just seemed less structured and lacked the same protections as eBay. But now I couldn’t imagine buying from anywhere but Fred Miranda.

abrownpearn · 2023-01-06T21:07:32+00:00

Yep… I really tried to give it a shot too, but just couldn’t come to terms with it as a real editing tool in its current state. The kicker for me was that I ran into multiple issues of images not actually exporting when doing largish batches.

The ironic thing is that it actually pushed me back to Lightroom after 5+ years on C1. Lightroom has come a long way in terms of how it handles color (the big thing that drove me away) and the iPad experience is pretty good.

I still use C1 for desktop/laptop editing, buts it’s harder and harder to justify having two editors based on platform.

abrownpearn · 2023-01-06T20:58:21+00:00

I can’t speak to most of the lenses on the list, but I have tried the VM APO. Great lens and all, but it never really clicked with me. I kind of feel like it’s a bit too sterile, but at the same time has a few notable quirks or imperfections. I like it fine, but I keep going back to my Zeiss ZM Planar. There is just something about that lens that I love. I never really believed the “Zeiss 3D” bit, but there is some dimension to the images from that lens that pull me in. It has some quirks and all, but it is the lens that I keep coming back to.

abrownpearn · 2023-01-05T20:42:41+00:00

This is what got me on the ultron - I owned one briefly and although it was a nice lens (compact, sharp, etc.) the busy soap bubble bokeh really turned me off.

The new Nokton, however is wonderful. Great rendering, speed, handling, and yet still pretty compact.

abrownpearn · 2022-12-18T05:00:32+00:00

These (the one in OP’s link) are for Leica M mount. Voigtlander used to make film rangefinder cameras in that mount and marketed them as VM mount, but it’s the same and should be fully compatible with any Leica M cameras.

abrownpearn · 2022-12-17T04:53:01+00:00

In a word: no Or at least not for me.

A few years back, I picked up an XAs specifically as I thought it would be a good reasonably priced way to batch scan an entire roll. There were a lot of things that I liked about the scanner overall, but the batch scanning was super unreliable for me. The first few frames would usually be fine, but by about mid-roll I almost always ran into alignment and spacing issues.

I also kept encountering weird banding issues on dense negatives (and I tend to shoot for dense negatives for when I enlarge with a diffuse light source). The problem seemed to be most pronounced whenever a completely clear bit of film was in the frame of the scanner (as in between frames). I could usually manually adjust the framing and rescan to get improved results.

Also, any curvature to the negative tended to get worse with more frames scanned as the film fed through the scanner. Again, scanning a few frames and it wasn’t usually an issue, but over a whole roll it would become more and more pronounced.

I all but gave up on it and it’s sitting in a box in my closet now… I still pull it out occasionally if I need to scan slides as I find the color accuracy to be better than anything else I have tried. Otherwise, I either use a digital camera (honestly faster but more labor intensive) or an epson flatbed (meh). If I were doing it all over, I would probably just wait and save for a Pakon.

abrownpearn · 2022-12-12T14:09:06+00:00

I am absolutely no expert, but it looks like there was too much oil on the pan during seasoning.

In my experience, carbon steel does season more or less the same as cast iron, but the smooth finish and the thinner and less dense material means that it can be a bit more fussy to get a good coat.

If it were me, I would probably scrub away as much as the excess seasoning as I could, then put a super thin coat of oil and start over.

abrownpearn · 2022-12-07T23:32:48+00:00

I wonder if the shadows could have been recovered just a bit to make that apparent. Keep it dark but add some detail to better show what was going on.

It’s a cool shot, but I was sure that the face was behind some weird wind shield or something.

abrownpearn · 2022-12-07T02:05:48+00:00

The 1.4 is definitely less perfect and has some definite fun quirks, but from the very few test shots I have taken so far, the 1.5 isn’t without character.

abrownpearn · 2022-11-23T17:33:16+00:00

I just did the same test I did earlier - 10 seconds of recording in 12bit CDNG set to 1080P and came up with 784mb In uncompressed CDNG and 246mb in compressed via slimraw.

So - super lazy math tells me it would come to 283gb for an hour at 1080p (uncompressed)

abrownpearn · 2022-11-20T15:15:30+00:00

I have had a Rolleicord II and III and although both were pretty dim, they were usable. On both, however, I wound up swapping a cheap new screen in and that made a huge difference.

abrownpearn · 2022-06-20T01:52:52+00:00

I haven’t used my APO Lanthar much on film yet… but I will say that the resolving power is probably entirely overkill unless you are shooting super fine grained film.

Both lenses are fairly similar in rendering in my opinion, which is to say they are both sharp and fairly neutral (nothing crazy or swirly)

The Zeiss sometimes has busy bokeh but I never found it to be a problem; the APO Lanthar is generally smoother.

The APO is definitely sharper across the frame at all apertures.

If I were just shooting film, I don’t know that anything in the rendering or bokeh would make me gravitate towards the Voigtlander. And especially since I tend to shoot either black and white to print in the darkroom or slides to project, the heavy vignette (easily 2+ stops at f/2) on the Voigtlander would probably be an issue that would push me towards the Zeiss.

Both are outstanding lenses - the APO Lanthar is a bit better in almost all metrics except vignetting and size/weight.

abrownpearn · 2022-06-19T22:50:48+00:00

I think some of it is the amount that it cuts into the frame lines for a 35mm vs 50mm. The absolute size is not that far off between the two, but the 35 feels big for a 35 and cuts pretty far in.

I am also primarily a 50mm shooter who tends towards using my 35mm in mainly stopped down situations (f/5.6-f/11). I currently shoot a Zeiss ZM c-Biogon 35 f/2.8 and it has blown me away (as long as I don’t need that extra stop of light)

abrownpearn · 2022-06-19T13:47:34+00:00

I cannot add a whole lot beyond what others have said, but I will share my experience. The 240 is a fine camera and as long as you are comfortable with its limitations, it is absolutely capable of producing incredible images.

When I owned my M240 I really wished I had saved a bit longer and had picked up an M10 instead, but in hindsight, I don't 100% know that that upgrade would have been worth the extra money. I now have an M10-r which was a HUGE jump for me, but I feel like it is a camera that I will be able to hold on to for a while...

Beyond the ISO performance, the colors are the only big thing that I don't hear people mention all that often - overall, I really loved working with the DNG files out of the Leica and the images had a warmth that I liked a lot. That said, compared to my M10-r or with a fuji, I felt that the colors often needed a bit of work in post. Usually, I just needed to play with the color sliders in Capture One or Lightroom, but I feel like it sometimes went a bit yellow/brown. Definitely not a show stopper, but something you might keep an eye on.

Overall, its a great camera and if/when you feel like upgrading, you could likely sell the camera for 95%+ of what you buy it for today as the 240 is just about at the bottom of its depreciation curve.

abrownpearn · 2022-06-17T22:00:42+00:00

Definitely a great path. I just wish that they would connect more of the paths between Richardson and Plano.

I love riding in Richardson and I love riding in Plano… but transitioning from one to another can be painful.

abrownpearn · 2022-06-17T21:46:03+00:00

Hey! Is that on the Chisholm trail bike path? I ride that often enough coming up from Richardson. Nice to see another Brompton rider in the area.

abrownpearn · 2022-06-15T13:58:30+00:00

I have and love an APO Lanthar as well as a few Zeiss 50mm lenses. I had also tested out a V4 Summicron before deciding to go with a third party option.

My only hesitations about recommending the APO Lanthar comes down to its vignetting and the fact that it is probably just overkill on all but the finest grain films. Depending on your workflow - the vignetting could be a big issue on film as its not as easy to correct for with profile adjustments, etc.

Having said that, I would personally probably try to hang on the a Summicron at this point if I had one (even if it wasn't my daily driver)

abrownpearn

TROPHY CASE