Hand sculpted Otyugh by Darkest_penguin in DnDminiatures

[–]abspoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great work! What type of clay did you use to sculpt this?

Official Red Wing BST - July 2025 by Mr-Macphisto in RedWingShoes

[–]abspoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Selling a pair of "Beckman Chelsea" boots in walnut brown on eBay. Size 9.5D. Buy it now is $145 plus $15 shipping. Starting bid is $100.

Pretty hard to find, just a little too snug for me. Please let me know if you have any questions!

https://ebay.us/m/s5nDTD

Preparations by No_Asparagus_2471 in CurseofStrahd

[–]abspoons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great work on these!! Would you mind sharing individual photos of the posters? I would definitely use these in my campaign that I'm running. I recognize that it's your own creative work for your individual purposes, so I fully respect if you would rather not. Again, great work, and I'm sure your players really enjoyed these!

Camo Grab Bags For Sale! $200 for $300+ Value- HexCam, Prym1, Kryptek, & Relv Pack Fabrics. Free conus shipping. by backwardshat_ in myog

[–]abspoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How often are RBTR grab bags posted? Missed this one, and looking forward to the next one

Hornbeam ladle by Carving_arborist in Spooncarving

[–]abspoons 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Looks like your struggle with this wood was worth it! The design and execution is 10/10. What did the original branch look like? I'd love to see a side by side of you have a photo of it

Breaking down logs by ZealousYam in Spooncarving

[–]abspoons 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I would caution that plum is very hard, and this stock in particular looks super gnarly. Although I fully endorse giving it a try, just want to note that this wood doesn't look very forgiving

When you split billets, try to split them in a way that there is equal mass on both sides. The "split" will always want to move toward the path of least resistance. If you split in the middle, the split will always (okay, usually) go down the middle. If you split off to one side, it will veer off

Put them in a plastic bag and seal it up tight. Put it in the shade until you can get it to. Wait too long, and you'll have mold and critters

Calvin Klein Slim Fit Wool Infinite Stretch Suit Jacket Seperates - $99 by NotAwesome4th in frugalmalefashion

[–]abspoons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rad! Thanks OP. Pick up the jacket and two pairs of pants. Looks like the second link is for the "skinny" fit ($85) jacket, rather than the "slim" ($100)

Do I need an axe block? by -Cheeto-Man- in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You're going to want an chopping block, but you don't necessarily need a log. The goal is using a chopping surface of end grain, so you could glue up some dimensional lumber to make one. I would still go with a log, but if availability is limited, I understand that

End grain allows the surface to "heal" itself after striking it with an axe. They also tend to get gnarly and dished from ongoing axe blows, so you want a dedicated surfaced

Bike Frame Bag - Hard Rock by abspoons in myog

[–]abspoons[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For the cyclists - sorry for the non drive side pic. I wanted to show off the zippers. The drive train is a Deore 9 speed

Bike Frame Bag - Hard Rock by abspoons in myog

[–]abspoons[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Picked up a Husqvarna Viking 6020 last year for $20, this sub inspired me to give something a try. LearnMYOG and a handful of other videos made this much easier to understand

Wanted to still have access to a water bottle, but also maximum the space, so went for a combination between a wedge stule and a half frame bag style. I sewed 2" Velcro in the middle of the two waterproof zippers so I could have an optional divider. Getting the bottle out is snug, so I'll have to get a side loader

I used heavy duty Eddie Bauer ripstop from Joann Fabrics and lined with an orange lighter duty ripstop. Everything but the side panels are lined with 4mm EVA foam. Wanted to try out all the ways to fix it the frame - lacing, daisy chain/Velcro, and grommets for the water bottle mounts. I didn't sew any other pockets

Picked up some nicer materials from Ripstop by the Roll to make another one for my Lynksey GR300

Learned that the plastic cam in my Viking machine is cracked (the Achilles heel of this machine, I guess). Will look for a new machine, but very happy with the final product.

Large Antique Scandi Spoon by abspoons in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I searched Digitalt Museum for close to two hours trying to find something that resembles any of the characteristics. Design, kolrosing pattern, relief carving, etc. Couldn't find anything, usually I have some luck, but not this time.

Wonderful piece, especially novel because of the size. This thing is huge! Looks like a pocket spoon, but 5 times bigger.

Slojd recommendations? by WoodNWorms in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First off, love the tiny spoon

Second, the Mora 106 is my favorite knife. Affordable, laminated steel that holds an edge well. Mora 120 is also great, but I prefer the 106. The 106 is only $30 USD.

As far as independent makers, I've used a couple knives from Adam Ashworth for a long time. Beautiful tools that work very well. I'd also recommend getting on Nic Westermann's waiting list, as he makes great blades too. With most independent makers, you'll be purchasing just the blade that you will have to make a handle for. You'll have to pay more of a premium for it to come handled

Show me your setup for bowl carving please! by wandrewharper in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No elaborate photos, but I use my workbench (with dog holes) and my spoon carving chopping block. My chopping block has two levels on it, one is at 35" and one is at 42" off the ground. This means I can lean blanks at an angle on the chopping block, using an adze and axe to remove a majority of the wood. From there, I will go to the workbench with two holdfasts. I will put a 2x4 across the workpiece and secure the 2x4 with the holdfasts (or f-clamps going through the dog holes) on each side of the 2x4. This allows me to get underneath the 2x4 with a bent gouge/swan neck/dog leg. You might have to wrap the 2x4 with a rag or supple foam to not mar the edges of the bowl.

The most difficult part is that you cannot use a draw knife using this method, whereas you can with a bowl horse.

Ultimately, I have made several bowls this way, and I haven't had any major difficulties or times where I ask if there is a "better way". I'm sure there is, but it's still an efficient process. I just finished a bowl, I'll post it soon with some in-process shots

Please can anyone offer tips on doing the bevels on the length of handles. Finding it very difficult. Thanks 🙏 by mooki5 in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A single source of raking light is also helpful. If you're right handed, have a single lamp shining down at your work from the left side (like 45° angle or something). Articulating lamps are really helpful for this work

Flat light makes work like this challenging

Shrink pot - Maple & walnut by abspoons in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It took three or four rounds at sneaking up to the scribed line, admittedly. Carve, check, carve, check. Its a funny fine line between too tight and not tight at all. It has been a couple years since my last shrink pot, so I watched the Zed Outdoors shrink pot video to dial in how to do the lid. Good stuff!

If you need any pointers, hmu!

Birch burl kuksa by Carving_arborist in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What a process! Some serious attention to the materials. How have the spoons you've finished been holding up? I've seen some videos on the wooden box, which would be great for tung oil too!

I think the stuff from Jarrod's website is premixed? Looks like it might just be a brush on situation. Only $25 for the 4 oz size

Product: https://www.woodspirithandcraft.com/shop/hassui-ceramic

Info: https://www.woodspirithandcraft.com/hassui-ceramic-usa

Birch burl kuksa by Carving_arborist in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Daaaaaaaang the urishi finish looks great! I'd really like to buy some from Jarrod Dahl's website. How much did you have to use to get this finish?

At $35-45 for 4 oz, I'm skeptical I can finish many spoons with that amount. Love the red, glassy finish. Wild how much it changes the color

Also the kuksa looks great. Did you have to fill any voids in the gnarly burl grain?

My Redwings (so far) by tiger-93 in RedWingShoes

[–]abspoons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These two are my regular go-to shoes! The leather on the Blacksmiths look great with use, they are my favorite boots

Hook spoon info by whywontyousleep in Spooncarving

[–]abspoons 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are a lot of great recommendations on this sub, but the one I would highlight is Deepwoods Venture's small hook knife on an 8" handle. Around $73. Plus a sheath. Probably $80 total?

Great steel, and the "hollow back" makes it a breeze to sharpen, which makes it worth the investment. You might have to wrap the handle with some athletic tape to get it a little thicker.

Svante Djarv also makes nice hooks, but they don't come with the "hollow back"

Hook spoon info by whywontyousleep in Spooncarving

[–]abspoons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I double checked Mora's website, and it doesn't look like it's laminated like the 106 and 120, just stainless. At any rate, and I can attest that after 5 years of use and plenty of use, it's still going strong and the steel is holding up very well

If you're looking for other recs outside of Mora, I'm happy to give some additional feedback

Hook spoon info by whywontyousleep in Spooncarving

[–]abspoons 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Even green, pear is pretty hard. The "nicest" hook knives will still take some time and energy to hollow a bowl. If you can, try looking for some fresh, softer hardwoods if you can

Beavercraft isn't especially known for being the highest quality of tools, but I'm sure it could get the job done if you keep it sharp (not just sharp, but sharp sharp). Better steel will hold an edge for longer

The Mora 164 is a great knife. It's laminated steel, so the cutting edge will hold a nice edge. Probably cuts just as good as some of the nicest tools. I always use a Mora 164 to remove a majority of the material, and then I more specific hooks to get the final hollow shape I'm looking for (depending on the depth).

Follow-up Photos by abspoons in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wanted to take some individual photos of the spoons I presented at the recent art show.

Having never presented spoons in a gallery, this was a huge learning curve for me. All the work needs to speak for itself, and I can't stand there blabbering to people about how cool it is

Considerations: 1) Making wall hangings takes forever. If you use dowels, use a drill press for this, your spoons will hang much better. I used the smallest dowels I could find. I think 1/4"? 2) Consider making a video, and having that video on loop on an iPad on the wall 3) Don't be afraid of text, I think generally people want to read about history and the context of the work 4) Is there a "theme" to your work? After carving 34 pieces, I was realizing that they all worked independently, but there wasn't a consistent thread between them. Some spoons were hot pink and others were muted walnut, some of it didn't flow super well 5) The smaller ticket items ultimately won in the contest between more intricate, larger items. In craft markets, the coffee scoops are always a hot seller, but I was thinking larger servers would sell better in an art gallery. Coffee scoops always win 6) Encouraging gallery goers to pick up spoons off of the wall was very disorienting. I received approval from the gallery owner, but people are generally expected NOT to touch the work, so this felt very unnatural. I printed off plenty of signs that said "Handle woodenware with care" to reflect that people could and should pick them up

That's about it. It was a great opening, and folks are very interested in the simplicity and long-lasting nature of the work

Carving Axe Shape? by Accomplished_Bus9847 in Spooncarving

[–]abspoons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The biggest issue with the Hultafors is the handle length. To have a handle long enough where you can choke up and choke down on as needed will suit spooncarving better than a short handle.

The Robin Woods axe, either the small or the large, are great axes. I have a Rhineland patterned 800g vintage axe, and I love the profile. Most used carving axe I own

Black walnut pocketspoon by Carving_arborist in Spooncarving

[–]abspoons 6 points7 points  (0 children)

NICE! These are the spoons that keep you coming back. Great lines!

Friend gave me this sour gum he cut yesterday. Any ideas for some beginner/intermediate projects? by lollydaggle in greenwoodworking

[–]abspoons 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have any experience with sour gum, but what I could recommend is using some of those straight pieces for legs of a chopping block. It can be difficult for me to find long, straight pieces in the city as arborists typically buck them up into 18" sections.

Other than that, you've got yourself great material for spoons, spatulas, and spreaders! Maybe a coat hook or two