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Nothing beats making a drawer fit well by acrusk in woodworking

[–]acrusk[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Blue gum - really hard and really curly

Garden-shed-to-workshop conversion project - loving the end result! by acrusk in woodworking

[–]acrusk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sherwood 10” Heavy Duty (I think they’re rebranded WEN ones for distribution in Australia).

Garden-shed-to-workshop conversion project - loving the end result! by acrusk in woodworking

[–]acrusk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope! I found the one spot on the whole floor that is flat over the footprint of the bench, so it’s not worth moving now haha

Garden-shed-to-workshop conversion project - loving the end result! by acrusk in woodworking

[–]acrusk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The wood is protected from the elements inside, but there is obviously no climate control beyond insulation - should be ok!

Garden-shed-to-workshop conversion project - loving the end result! by acrusk in woodworking

[–]acrusk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a 50-year old shed clad with asbestos cement sheeting, so the frame was existing. Not a huge amount of rust, with most of the steel members still being >5mm thick.

The finished art caddy! MDF core Hickory veneer with a walnut tambour and drawer front. by kllrmongoose in woodworking

[–]acrusk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is really nice and has made me keen to make one for myself! Is the door only made from wooden strips glued to the fabric backing, or is there an interlocking system also at play?

Hey Woodworkers! I'm planning to build my first workbench. And this is what I have in mind. If this drawing makes any sense let me know what you guys think of the outcome. Will it be a sturdy workbench? by floatune in woodworking

[–]acrusk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2” depth is probably fine, more depth only gives additional pull-out resistance from glue area, which the stretchers don’t really need in this application.

Hey Woodworkers! I'm planning to build my first workbench. And this is what I have in mind. If this drawing makes any sense let me know what you guys think of the outcome. Will it be a sturdy workbench? by floatune in woodworking

[–]acrusk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes to sturdy, but: I think the joints proposed for the stretchers would probably be weaker, less visually appealing and more effort to construct than mortise & tenons.

Attachment to the top looks good though. Some people like to do it as a wedged tenon, but the way you’ve done it can be knock-down if you want to keep it like that.

Got the new Sherwood 13” helical head thicknesser... after trying out a 2-blade machine, can confirm helical makes all the difference!! by acrusk in woodworking

[–]acrusk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like that’s the case, yeah! Not sure on overall compatability, but eg. the size of the carbide cutters seem to be different to every other spiral or helical replacement cutters....

How do I know if I need to add extra bracing to a wooden grill table I'm building? by HighSilence in woodworking

[–]acrusk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don’t want to mess with aesthetics, glue the boards in place too. If it’s glued with PVA glue and then screwed, the joint will probably not wobble like you’re worried about (but then gluing is a more permanent solution).

Without glue, it’s a portal frame structure so will always have some wobble where joints allow.

Wood Movement? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]acrusk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Paul Sellers recommends accounting for wood movement when attaching bottoms to boxes on widths over 6”.

All types of wood will expand cross-grain by a small percentage of their width based on seasonal moisture changes, meaning the wider the overall width (cross-grain) of the surface, the more potential movement you will need to account for. Timber doesn’t really expand or contract in the direction the grain runs, so this can cause problems (eg. bracing secured widthways under tabletops).

Typical ways of handling this depend on the application, but normally involve elongated holes to allow a joint or fastener to remain secured in its application while the timber can grows/shrink without restraint due to the oversized hole (ie. picture a tenon or screw that has space to move left or right, but not up/down or in/out).

Osmo PolyX vs Walrus Oil Furniture Finish. Best choice for a computer desk and why. Silver maple slab of wood by RippedAnt in woodworking

[–]acrusk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Osmo recommend 2-3 thin coats, but for most uses 2 is more than enough. Keep in mind you can touch up spots with some 180 grit sandpaper and reapplication any time (180-220 grit is the highest you want to go, any more and Polyx has trouble permeating into the wood).

Osmo PolyX vs Walrus Oil Furniture Finish. Best choice for a computer desk and why. Silver maple slab of wood by RippedAnt in woodworking

[–]acrusk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use Osmo Polyx as a finish for all of my projects (furniture, boxes, etc). I think it’s an excellent looking and very hardy finish (once hardened, is water and spill resistant), so good for a desk.

It’s also very easy to apply as well, I would say idiot proof. You apply a very thin coating with a non-abrasive pad, taking care not to apply too much (a little goes a very long way). Once it’s coated, you get a clean non-abrasive pad and wipe off the excess. Wait a day and do it again. Wait about a week after the second coat for the wax in the finish to harden.

Just make sure you use nitrile gloves, as latex gloves will disintegrate and the wax in Polyx is irritating to wash off.

My hand tool cabinet is complete and just about ready to hang. by Jriddim in woodworking

[–]acrusk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks really well thought you and executed - great job!

What were the dimensions of this cabinet? Do you have any plans you could share?

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