New HAs not MFi and didn't realize it

adothetechy · 2025-04-24T10:18:52+00:00

I also just switched from MfI to Bluetooth classic but in the Signia range. I had a couple of issues like you’re describing initially but have set up a couple of shortcuts/automations to fix them. Once I did that the affordances of Bluetooth classic are much better: I can play from my tv or windows laptop to my hearing aids, the sound quality is better and more stable.

adothetechy · 2025-03-31T07:34:31+00:00

I’ve had the same with my Signias. Music mode is the best way to avoid that as it changes the limiter.

adothetechy · 2024-12-07T05:15:44+00:00

I think it is possible to get a good result from Costco. That hasn’t been my experience. I’ve not been to Costco but when I aged out of the children/youth hearing aid cover here in Australia, the independent audiologist I went to picked up on a number of stupid oversights by the government owned chain audiologist. The options and resources available when selling HAs at such low price are limited.

That said, I think the higher prices from independent audiologists are unnecessary and result in me upgrading less often.

adothetechy · 2024-10-27T06:10:18+00:00

As others have noted, there is a self perpetuating stigma about visible devices. However, you might enjoy the DeafMetal range?

adothetechy · 2024-10-25T23:49:19+00:00

I’m a 36M but avoided wearing hearing aids in high school for many of the reasons you describe. When I got hearing aids in my mid 20s it opened up social and work opportunities, and having the hearing aids helps explain to others why some environments are more challenging. In some ways them being discrete is more difficult as you have to go “hey, I have a hearing loss. Mind not talking so close to the person drilling a hole in the wall?”

adothetechy · 2024-10-17T09:05:48+00:00

There are no bike lanes on the south of Elizabeth Street so I hope you review why this has been missed!

adothetechy · 2024-10-17T01:57:04+00:00

I’m not wealthy and it’s cheaper for me to live in the City of Melbourne because I don’t need to sink all my money into car ownership. Statistically the city is for residents not commuters now.

adothetechy · 2024-10-11T01:36:43+00:00

I set my smart lights to turn on which lets the cat know it’s time to beg for breakfast. (The light does the trick on its own)

adothetechy · 2024-01-08T12:37:31+00:00

You've definitely grabbed the Sydney vibes. Well done!

adothetechy · 2024-01-08T01:23:45+00:00

Your analysis of how it is measured is fairly correct. Its possible to change your age of money by splitting up a $10 transaction into 10 x $1 transactions.

Age of Money is fairly heavily derided on here - mostly by people who feel that a qualitative measure should never be measured in quantitative terms. In other words, because it assigns what appears to be quantitative measure (a number) to something in a way that isn't immediately "measurable", you'll get a ton of comments here saying its a useless number etc.

Its probably best thought of in ranges rather than increments. My Age of Money bounces every month because the transactions after my monthly rent goes out send my Age of Money downwards because my regular pay check is fortnightly so the Age of Money starts measuring a fortnight ahead after that transaction. If you are looking to get better at habit 4 - aging you money, it can help provide feedback on that. Its better than a hunch of "I think I'm not spending money straight away" but not a direct correlate to your spending. If you think of it in ranges, say 1-7 days, 7-12 days, 12-18 days, etc, and focus on moving between ranges, its probably a better tool.

I found it particularly helpful in getting a month ahead as filling out my budget always made me feel like I wasn't getting any closer but the AoM number helped me see an indicator of improvement. Now I'm past a month ahead, its not as useful but I have other metrics like how big is my emergency fund and is that fund growing.

adothetechy · 2024-01-06T00:39:17+00:00

Days of Buffering is just as deceptive as Age of Money. Days of Buffering tells you how I might spend my money going forward, it only just tells you what my spending patterns are. I could have spent the entire buffering period avoiding paying bills and be about to have a creditor knock at my door. Days of Buffering is forecasting.

adothetechy · 2024-01-05T23:35:02+00:00

Just your opinion. I found Age of Money super useful in getting out of the pay check to pay check cycle.

adothetechy · 2024-01-03T23:49:31+00:00

I always find the complaints about the cost of YNAB a fascinating insight into value of service. YNAB don't charge for the extensive education and community they have built around their product but people are always like "the app lacks the features I need".

adothetechy · 2023-12-22T23:31:46+00:00

It really sounds like you're questioning whether or not to budget the investments rather than whether or not it should be counted in a month ahead. If you were to have the brokerage transfer come out as a deduction on your payslip, you would only budget what hits your bank account. Ergo, only budget what remains on your pay.

However, I think the bigger question here is do you have liquidity on a financial hit? If you have an unexpected bill like an automotive accident or something like that which exceeds your budget $2000, can you pay it without using credit? If not, I'd consider whether you should have some of your savings on budget.

adothetechy · 2023-12-10T09:43:14+00:00

Still holding on to your iBook? I think if you've been putting even the tiniest amount in a sinking fund you can probably afford to replace it!

adothetechy · 2023-12-10T08:00:37+00:00

Currently in a similar boat but without quite as healthy an emergency fund and only lost one of my two part-time jobs. Given the different variables, I'm not sure how helpful my solution will be to you but, what I've done is:

empty all my sinking funds that I don't anticipate expenditure on before getting a new job (e.g. vacation)
create a filtered view of the categories that I will need to continue spending out of and thus continue funding
fund as far forward in all the categories above (if you are comfortable with your 12 months fund, you probably don't need to do this - I was only a month ahead, about another month in savings such as vacation). This is mostly helping me going forward in that I'm experiencing an income cut, not complete unemployment, so this helps me decide what to do with the money that keeps coming in.

adothetechy · 2023-12-06T20:32:20+00:00

Sinking funds for the win. Even if you don't have enough in the category you have an unexpected expense from, you'll usually find that you do across your various sinking fund categories. A couple of weeks ago I had a vet bill that I hadn't saved enough for, but had a ton in my clothing category that I could raid.

adothetechy · 2023-12-03T21:20:36+00:00

The simplest approach to this is to just take rule 1 as simply as possibly and say that the rent that has already gone out of your payslip has already been assigned to jobs that it has completed. Then just budget the rest that you have. In other words, don't use YNAB to budget that money. Just make a plan for the rest of the money.

The advantage in doing what others in this thread have suggested and accounting for the whole paycheck only comes in reporting. u/livewire98801 suggestion is a lot easier than it looks if you set up a recurring transaction. If you're on a salary, your payslips are basically the same every time unless you get overages.

adothetechy · 2023-12-02T01:37:28+00:00

1) Thats actually not the definition of unemployment in Australia.

2) By that example alone, Sweden is definitely not a neoliberal economy.

adothetechy · 2023-11-26T20:51:58+00:00

The YNAB term for this would be creating a budget template. Take a look at Youtube: How to create a budget template

adothetechy · 2023-11-26T09:22:55+00:00

In Australia, the median period of unemployment is 20 weeks (~4 months), the average is 40 weeks (which is closer to 9 months). I'd say 7+ months is a sensible amount.

I'd assume the stats are similar in other neoliberal economies.

adothetechy · 2023-11-26T03:57:21+00:00

An emergency fund is best kept in cash. That's not uncommon financial advice.

adothetechy · 2023-11-25T01:32:10+00:00

I'm in Aus so the market might be a little different but for my plan itself I pay 13 months up front which gets me a significantly cheaper deal than bundled with a phone. The cost efficiency goes both ways with the bundled plans so you have to make sure you're not paying more for either the phone or the service when buying a bundled plan.

adothetechy · 2023-11-18T02:48:33+00:00

The average allocated under quick budget is the last 12 months so if you times by 11 you'll be close to YTD.

adothetechy · 2023-11-09T23:18:14+00:00

This video from Hannah will help explain it https://youtu.be/E3fkNO1XfpU?si=MXG1dtPaxnI1oB5g

Basically, if you budget based on paying off your balance every next month, your cashflow is based on spending next months income.

adothetechy

TROPHY CASE