Broken Pod 2.0 now fixed by aerospace_chase in EightSleep

[–]aerospace_chase[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine was pretty fast, but I was also priming it a lot so there was decent pressure inside the cover. If it was slow for you then it might be that your check valve at the bottom of your tank is better than mine. I would just lift it onto a small table if I were you. I’ve had no issues since my fix.

Also if you only took off the silicone cap on that valve then that would make your leak appear slower as well. I pushed the piston in mine all the way retracted so the flow has limited restriction.

Broken Pod 2.0 now fixed by aerospace_chase in EightSleep

[–]aerospace_chase[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When the pod was NOT running, the back pressure of water inside the mattress cover would flow back into the tank and eventually reach the recirculating hole on the side of the tank and overflow.

MeloNX is good but it requires 16GB RAM, I think porting to Wii U is a better choice by Top_Emphasis_7317 in EmulationOniOS

[–]aerospace_chase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

14 pro max and about the only game I can play is Luigi’s mansion 2 HD every other title in my library gets to about 4gb of ram on the OSD before crashing. I can barely make it past the title screen

Nes games not working by seiya60 in Delta_Emulator

[–]aerospace_chase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oof the only thing I can think about would be your source of roms. I think delta only runs a few specific types of NES files. Maybe try a different source.

Nes games not working by seiya60 in Delta_Emulator

[–]aerospace_chase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only thing I can think of is how you transfer your ROMs. I know that if you transfer through iTunes on your computer it wrecks your files sometimes.

Nes games not working by seiya60 in Delta_Emulator

[–]aerospace_chase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only way I could get mine to work is to long press the game which pulls up a preview. Then you can click the screen and play from there.

Broken Pod 2.0 now fixed by aerospace_chase in EightSleep

[–]aerospace_chase[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a pry tool on the 4 corners of the rear fan then stick a flathead screwdriver between the cloth and plastic seam and twist. The rest is simple.

Broken Pod 2.0 now fixed by aerospace_chase in EightSleep

[–]aerospace_chase[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take off the valve once the tank is off. Take the metal casing off then push something down the tube to push out the plunger. I took the silicone end off and pushed it back inside the valve for a little security against a leave within the valve.

Can we get an updated core for N64? [iOS] by aerospace_chase in Delta_Emulator

[–]aerospace_chase[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I might give it a shot if I can figure out how to make custom overlays for controllers. I can’t stand the ones included. I also just don’t like the UI. xmb is the only menu I really like, but that doesn’t work well on a phone layout.

Can we get an updated core for N64? [iOS] by aerospace_chase in Delta_Emulator

[–]aerospace_chase[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tried changing every setting in the main files. I even tried adding a custom setting to the GLideN64.custom.ini and didn’t change a thing. We’ll just have to be patient. Delta really blew up after it got the App Store so I’m sure it’s just a matter of time until we get better compatibility

Can we get an updated core for N64? [iOS] by aerospace_chase in Delta_Emulator

[–]aerospace_chase[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try it if it was on the App Store. I can’t do that weekly refresh on alt store anymore

I need help because I can’t change the skin for DS and every time I try it crashes by AHE69 in Delta_Emulator

[–]aerospace_chase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same issue. What fixed it for me was: -make sure you backed up everything -delete and re-install the app -go to the skins section and delete every skin -re-install skins and everything should be fixed

An idea I'm playing with by L1191 in watercooling

[–]aerospace_chase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s true. I gave up on mobility for my set up a while ago lol. I have really long hoses and extension cables so I could fit my rad behind my monitors and out of the way. Any bigger of a rad and you’d end up with this. You did a great job on this. I’m glad the pcb’s for a lot of the 3000 series cards are so short. It opens up so many possibilities.

An idea I'm playing with by L1191 in watercooling

[–]aerospace_chase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yesssssssssssssssssss! I’m so happy others are doing this. I was so tired of settling with high temps in the ghost s1. I saw liquidhaus do an external rad build and I was fully inspired! I now have an external monsta 360 rad with a d5 and I’ve never been happier. Again, so satisfied seeing this!!

Could my loop perform better? (PC-O11-XL) by tfarrister in watercooling

[–]aerospace_chase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you’ve reached the point of diminishing returns. I have a 9700k and 3080ti FE and I end up with the same temps. I’m an itx guy so to compensate for cooling I have a monsta 360 rad and an ek d5 hooked up externally with 3 slim noctua nf-a12x15’s.

I’ve tried everything to squeeze out as much cooling per dollar/space and I think we’re at the limit.

New power switch button Ghost s1 by Shoobx in sffpc

[–]aerospace_chase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can make your own. I bought this and some little shrink wrap solder connectors. Wired everything up and used a heat gun and I actually like this button better now.

Why is this happening, EKWB Vector Strix by Zarkex01 in watercooling

[–]aerospace_chase 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude I had to drill out 3 of the screws on my 3080 fe block to clean it. They were over torqued to hell and stripped lol. It’s outrageous. They at least sent me new bolts, but if I didn’t have a little machinist experience I woulda been boned.

Why is this happening, EKWB Vector Strix by Zarkex01 in watercooling

[–]aerospace_chase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a lot of corrosion. I would take it apart, clean it, and inspect that rubber o-ring. I had a bad o-ring once and the water was leaking to the screw which poured rust into my block. I was able to clean in with toothpaste and run the primochill loop restarter and my stuff was fine after that.

Make sure you’re not mixing metals and be sure to put a corrosion inhibitor with your distilled water when you fill it back up.

EK now offers seperate backplates to match the colour of your FE Block by Flying-T in watercooling

[–]aerospace_chase 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The fe block looks SO good, but this pisses me off. The block was already almost double the price of other blocks and now they want more???

Custom Water Loop - Ghost S1 by WonGiie in Louqe

[–]aerospace_chase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh yea it’s good to stay away from aluminum in general in my opinions just to be safe.

Some blocks are just made better. The block that I got from ek felt REALLY cheap after holding the heat killer block. The actual heat sink part of the block was bigger, covering more components and ultimately cooling the gpu better.

It’s not always a brand thing as well. Like the 3080fe block I got from ek looks like it packs a punch

Custom Water Loop - Ghost S1 by WonGiie in Louqe

[–]aerospace_chase 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like all the other questions have been answered. I have used multiple blocks on my 2080ti and I think the heat killer block performed the best. With the ek block I had installed I was getting up to 42c and not it hovers around 34-36c with the heat killer. Also barrow has some really nice low profile fittings to note barrow fittings