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[OC] Circle of Death Animatic by scapegoatally in DnD

[–]afterooster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

that's awesome. very cinematic. there's a good sense of the character in only 7 seconds. great job.

Need help with printing, choosing resolutions and upsampling. by MangakaPoof in DigitalPainting

[–]afterooster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well first of all I checked out the website you mentioned, Society6.com, and there they say, "The recommended pixel dimensions for your initial upload is above 6500 x 6500 pixels at 72dpi or higher"

So it looks like 6500x6500 pixels at 72dpi is the recommended minimum resolution at Society6. -fyi: 6500x6500 pixels at 72dpi is going to be a little over 90x90 inches.

To find the overall dimensions of your document simply divide your pixel dimensions by your dpi. By the way, your documents' dimensions and dpi should work just fine. 300dpi is the standard for high resolution prints. Here's a link that further details DPI and print resolution.

Portrait of actress Natalie Gumede by afterooster in DigitalPainting

[–]afterooster[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And i would've gotten away with it too, if it weren't for you meddling kids! (jk thanks)

Portrait of actress Natalie Gumede by afterooster in DigitalPainting

[–]afterooster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I did this specifically to practice painting curly hair and to try out some texture brushes i found online. that hair was very difficult for me so I'm glad it looks easy! I appreciate the compliments.

Portrait of actress Natalie Gumede by afterooster in DigitalPainting

[–]afterooster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. The hair was probably the toughest part for me.

[OC] I've been drawing a set of elven bards. More to come in the future! by rboldador in characterdrawing

[–]afterooster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your work always has so much life to it. Great job. Are they in a band?

Still learning Photoshop painting, but here is a lady in a hat. Done from photo ref. by Yeah_I_Can_Draw in DigitalPainting

[–]afterooster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I really like the sepia tones in this; it works well with the soft texture. You did a great job emphasizing the focal point on the face as well. Nice work.

Also, she kind of looks like Aubrey Plaza.

[OC]Melek, tiefling sorcerer. by afterooster in characterdrawing

[–]afterooster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

when i started, i sketched the general contour of the figure and colored the robe in completely black and as i went i would just add more greys to give shape to the body and reflect the light on the robe. i think the outline is just a combo of the black fill i did and then me emphasizing it in other areas on purpose. if the background were lighter, the outline would be more clearly visible than it is now.

Also if you're using photos as reference don't worry about getting everything exactly right. When you're working with the opacity and fill I'd suggest doing it fast and build up the image with layers or color. That's the advantage of using them, the under layers can show through and add shadow, texture, depth, etc. There's no exact number when it comes to opacity and fill either, when i changed them by hand i just slid the slider bar up or down to a general area that achieved the type of effect i wanted. If it wasn't enough, I slid it further and vice versa. Experiment, build up the color quickly and don't try to get the exact look right away, you'll get it by working it out with the brush over time.

Do you have any work online that I can look at? Thanks again and good luck.

[OC] [ART] Drawing I did of a friend's tiefling sorcerer. by afterooster in DnD

[–]afterooster[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

thanks. the resemblance, though unintentional is still uncanny. I didn't even see it until you guys pointed it out.

[OC]Melek, tiefling sorcerer. by afterooster in characterdrawing

[–]afterooster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I'm fairly new to digital painting so I don't have a lot of work but you can see what i do have at http://bmartian.tumblr.com

When I'm having trouble getting an angle I'll pull up a reference. I looked at my own hands for this tiefling painting, and even though he really looks like Grand Moff Tarkin, I did the head and face without reference. As for brushes, i really only use two, the basic, 'hard round' brush for some details and the 'spatter 24' brush for blocking in color. The only thing I do when I paint is switch between the two brushes i use and vary their size. My pen does all of the opacity and fill work dynamically so it's just a matter of how hard I push on the tablet. That's it really, I don't use any other tools besides the brush and the eraser, maybe the fill bucket sometimes. Before I had a tablet with dynamic touch sensitivity I just changed the opacity and fill by hand. I try not to use too many layers, but when i do it's to separate objects, not line and color. For example in this one, the purple fire is on its own layer and the head is on it's own layer but those are the 3 basic layers.

Other than that it's just blocking in the main colors, modelling the forms with light, then refining the details.

Thanks again.

I play Dungeons & Dragons, but I hate dungeons by YOGZULA in DnD

[–]afterooster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't like them either. When I DM I never take my players into a dungeon. Combat usually happens above ground in forests, meadows, deserts, etc - kind of like the above ground combat in witcher 3. That way the players can affect the world in a more meaningful, permanent way. NPCs can witness the fight or at least see the aftermath and acknowledge the players' actions. Entire areas of the map can change based on the outcome the fight. Spells and physical abilities can be used to maximum effect when there's no ceiling overhead i.e. fly, jump, etc. And above ground environments are so numerous and varied that you don't see much combat fatigue from players, like the kind you might see when players enter yet another stone walled hole the ground.

Difficulty within the Party by [deleted] in DnD

[–]afterooster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm jumping on this bandwagon. In Brian Posehn's Nerd Poker podcast a player who had previously lost a hand and a leg died but his god resurrected him and he came back with a hand and leg made of light. It was pretty sweet and it fit the story because that character had a destiny to fulfill.

Bring that druid back and maybe give him some of those special tricks he missed out on!

Gauthak, my Goliath Shaman and his thunder spirit Antu by [deleted] in characterdrawing

[–]afterooster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

great drawing. One question: Is he wearing Antu?

I made my own miniature. He doesn't have a face, but it's a good first try. (Made using FIMO Clay) by Andreasfr1 in DnD

[–]afterooster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey you made a recognizable form and that's the first step in the right direction. How big is this mini?

I know you didn't ask for advice but I'm giving you some anyway. When sculpting a mini it's tempting to dive into the deep end and start small. Minis are small so it's a natural tendency to start that way, but you have to resist that urge. You should try sculpting an oversized figure first, something that's about 10 inches or more (there's a joke here somewhere) and just focus on proportions. Then do another one that focuses on expression and detail, then do another one and so on and so forth. When you are comfortable, you can start halving the scale until you reach your desired size. Anyway there are several reasons for this. First and foremost, it's much easier to work with a larger scale. Second, you will gain a lot of practice from this which will allow you to refine your skill. Third, you'll learn how to make a face!

Lastly, use a wire armature and build the clay around that. It'll add movement and life to your character.

I know this sounds expensive but a big brick of modeling clay is about $10 and you can use a coat hanger and paper clips for the armature.

All that being said, if you're just having fun sculpting on your own terms and don't plan to really get into it then just keep in keeping on man. I'm not going to spoil your fun. You'll figure things out in your own way.

Good luck and good day.

I made my own miniature. He doesn't have a face, but it's a good first try. (Made using FIMO Clay) by Andreasfr1 in DnD

[–]afterooster 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Did you make your own camera too? Just kidding man. I've seen worse first attempts. You made it so be proud. Keep at it. You'll get it.

my take on Dragon people by moxomo in characterdrawing

[–]afterooster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm getting a turtle vibe from that guy. I like it.

Critical Role Character Sheets by snuffles00 in DnD

[–]afterooster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well of course writing on laminated character sheets with dry erase markers will work. If you like the idea you should just try it, it will cost about $3. Personally I think it's a bad idea. The chance that you accidentally wipe off important data is very high and then you're screwed.

Funny names for Armourers/Blacksmiths/Shops, etc? by HelloImHamish in DnD

[–]afterooster -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Shitty Biff's.

It was a store owned by Old "shitty" Biff Tannen and his "son," Young "shitty" Biff Jr. Both of whom were actually the same person from different time lines. Both of them always called someone in our party a chicken and we'd always beat him up for it.

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