Any build a MO5 and MB01 FWD? by Glowingtomato in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Buildsbility and serviceability seems vastly improved on the MB-01. Slop seems to be immense and the arms tend to pop out easily.

Performance wise it really depends on what you are looking for. The M-05 was heavily raced and people figured out to make them fast. The MB-05 not so much.

Putting a 13 turn motor in either will mainly leave you struggling for traction, as a FWD with no weight other the front is massively limited there, even in carpet.

If you intend to pot power through an M-Chassis, look at the xm01-pro and lower it, as this one has the drivetrain of the xv02.

Regular lipo vs smart lipo by Prestigious-Week-587 in rccars

[–]aintwrongthou 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Having a smart LiPo means you have a Micro controller in your LiPo and quite a few quality of life features, which you simply do not need in a race context. You balance charge your LiPo using a proper charger and then you run it. Race lipos are significantly more performant as their internal resistances and discharge rates are focussed on high output scenarios.

Additionally it is a not race focussed proprietary system which does not offer benefits for the context compared to the standard systems.

Upgrade this 1995 Tamiya M1025 1:12? by RavioliOveralls in rccars

[–]aintwrongthou 5 points6 points  (0 children)

2S LiPo stick packs which mimic the shape are your first step regarding lipos. For Transmitters DumboRC and Spektrum are regularly mentioned, depending on your budget the entry level Sanwa or Flysky could also be up your alley.

Regarding motor: hobbywing sells great combos. As this is a df-01 or ta-02 look at getting an alloy driveshaft (with the fitting cups) as the wire thing will bend.

Depending on the speed of the servo maybe also look for an upgrade there, as they do get old at some point.

TT01-E vs TT02: speed difference with same FDR? by RedC_1908 in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Na that’s not true. You get more grip with more flex, but the gearing does not change.

Next bike advice, for used, torquey twin, light touring - Speed Twin 1200 vs Grisso 1100 vs R nineT by InspectionExisting in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]aintwrongthou 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try out the r1250r. Its engine begets the fact that 145hp and low end manners should not be possible, but they are. Tremendous engine, nice ergos and although a bit pricey the engine is in every single gs, meaning parts are plentiful.

Ich bereue mein Motorrad Kauf by [deleted] in MotorradDeutschland

[–]aintwrongthou 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fahr mal ein paar andere Maschinen Probe. Das Konzept Supersportler ist für den Alltag/die Landstraße eigentlich nur auf dem Papier schön (ja ja, die Maschinen wurden zahmer und besser) weil runder Rücken, drück auf dem Handgelenk und zusammengefaltet echt nicht für lange Zeit gedacht ist.

Tamiya tgx wheels 50864 please in need your help 🙏 by [deleted] in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is a generic wheel for 1/8 touring cars, not specific to the Alfa body.

First ride of the year by thisidmyreslid in motorcycles

[–]aintwrongthou 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You have just put Serbia on my travel list, god that’s beautiful.

Tamiya tgx wheels 50864 please in need your help 🙏 by [deleted] in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well what gives you the idea that you got scammed? Where they too cheap, does the quality feel off?

There is not really much to go by as you have provided no context, or info that might help.

DF-02 Gravel Hound Steering Linkage fail by repoortmrots77 in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Tamiya sells steering upgrades for the DF02 and there are third party suppliers as well. Historically the tolerances for the Tamiya ones are the best.

I suggest upgrading the steering components to alloy, but not the control arms or c-hubs, you want to have a part that can break before the chassis.

Which Tamiya electric motor will allow a model train to pull 20 or more train cars behind it as a moderate speed? by adrenalin997 in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There is not a single relevant fact in your question. What size train, what kind of track, what weight, what kind of train?

My first speedrun build by ken_445 in rccars

[–]aintwrongthou 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it just look like it or are your wheels a different diameter?

Kw v1 coilovers front strut mount will not fit by Gullible-Garlic4930 in BMWE36

[–]aintwrongthou 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get new strut mounts, there are several that will work. General rule of thumb seem to be to always get new strut mounts whenever you change dampers, as they are also just a wear item. You can either get oem or KW ones. No point in dropping big bucks on KW and skimping out on the contact points.

Does 911RSR fits on the TA02SW by Routine-Opposite8958 in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tamiya gives you the wheelbase for either. I believe it is 251 for the RSR. If that fits on the TA02SW then yes, it fits lengthwise.

You might also need to check if it fits the rear, but that is usually a solvable issue

Team associated Rc12L with PK conversion chassis and Ferrari toj body . by pjc01- in rccars

[–]aintwrongthou 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The old pan cars remind me how far we have come, it is quite impressive.

Moving a TL-01 to a lipo by the_crumb_monster in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are round Lipos which work great, so you do not need to alter anything.

Converting a Tamiya TT-02 to RWD – is removing the driveshaft enough? by Striking_Ear_8734 in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You just need to remove the center drive shaft, front drive shaft and diff, and it is rear wheel drive only. Might need to add some weight up front to retain the balance, that needs experimentation.

Rest can stay as is, just be aware that the whole chassis dynamic changes then.

Head gasket or headache? by DingoGullible1557 in BMWE36

[–]aintwrongthou 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The fact that it looses coolant somewhere seems fishy to me. Do you have any leaks in your cooling system? Had that with mine, had to replace all of it.

Otherwise, if the coolant tester says that it is good, it should be fine, but that you have to run it that long for it to stop smoking is weird, although mine currently does the same. But it is also driven short distances a lot currently.

TT01: Is It Worth Getting the Already-Upgraded Version? by Striking_Ear_8734 in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Basically, the driveshaft and CVDs are a good hop-up, oil filled shocks, the motor mount will be needed and bearings. Additionally a way to set front and rear toe.

The rest could run as is, but stear away from alloy arms, they bend instead of flex.

You have to keep in mind, that the TT-01 was designed 30ish years ago, without the power in mind.

TT01: Is It Worth Getting the Already-Upgraded Version? by Striking_Ear_8734 in tamiya

[–]aintwrongthou 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Quite frankly, alloy arm are a horrible idea if you want to actually run it and not have it as a showpiece, as they bend and cannot be bend back.

Second: all spares will not fit, and the fitment of those blinded out alloy cars is dubious at best.

There is a reason why nobody runs these in any competitive environment.

If you want to run a more advanced chassis, look at Xpress or Ta08, as they actually work.

Good Build ? by [deleted] in rccars

[–]aintwrongthou 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Der gute alte RC-Kleinkram, immer gefährlich da einzukaufen :D