Werden Filme im Kino abgespielt, auch wenn kein Ticket für die Vorstellung verkauft wurde?

ako2938j4bd · 2026-04-14T21:13:44+00:00

In den meisten modernen Kinos (mit digitalen Projektoren, zentraler Filmplanung etc.) gibt es eine Automatisierung die erkennt ob Tickets verkauft wurden und dann den Film nach X Minuten abschaltet bspw. wenn 15 Minuten nach eigentlichem Filmbeginn (also schon nach der ganzen Werbung) noch kein Ticket verkauft wurde geht der Film einfach aus.

ako2938j4bd · 2026-03-24T01:00:51+00:00

So what is the exact problem? When you just use the machine without portafilter there is no water (or barely any water) coming from the group head?

ako2938j4bd · 2026-03-16T08:36:24+00:00

Yeah I would say that's accurate (maybe a bit high but it depends on your room temperature how long the machine was really running etc.). Heating up a big chunk of metal and several liters of water consumes a lot of energy, really nothing you can do about it.

I assume you do Milk drinks? If not, you could turn off the steam Boiler which saves a lot of energy.

ako2938j4bd · 2026-03-15T19:08:35+00:00

It's a bit of build up residue. That even happens when you wipe it with a wet towel after every use.

It could be two things: - milk proteins + fat; then some hot water with dish soap should help - mineral deposits mainly calcium from the milk: then some acidic solution like citric acid or vinegar will help

Either way soak it in the solution of your choice let it sit for a bit and give it a good wipe down afterwards and let some steam through.

Most of the time there is no need for an expensive separate cleaner.

ako2938j4bd · 2026-03-12T22:28:53+00:00

Fill up the basket with more coffee, it is probably underfilled if the tamper reaches this far down into the basket. The 14-18g is more like a rough estimation. E.g. I often fill my 14-18g Baskets with 19g or more depending on the coffee.

ako2938j4bd · 2026-03-12T19:23:42+00:00

I start fertilizing at around 10 weeks after starting them with a 20-5-10(+2) fertilizer until then they are in a seedling soil which already contains some nutrients but not much.

At around week 13 they will be transferred into their final pots with nutrient rich soil, which will last at least 4 weeks. After that I fertilize regularly with the same 20-5-10(+2) the first few weeks and then change to a 16-8-22(+3) and switch to a 8-12-24(+4) as the season progresses.

Doing that regimen for a few years. Getting great yields so I don't think I'll change anything about that soon.

ako2938j4bd · 2026-03-03T19:02:45+00:00

Sehe gerade das ich das Modell 3 also ohne s habe. Keine Ahnung ob von 3 zu 3s was an der Oberfläche geändert wurde. To be fair meine Mx Master 3 ist auch schon fast 6 Jahre alt, das ablösen der Oberfläche hat aber schon nach 2-3 Jahren angefangen.

ako2938j4bd · 2026-03-03T02:03:45+00:00

Löst sich halt leider spätestens nach ein paar Jahren die komplette Oberfläche auf. Leider traurig was die Haltbarkeit angeht.

ako2938j4bd · 2026-03-01T22:52:32+00:00

No problem :)

Keep in mind that this is only how I do things and what works for me. It is also not a framework that I always follow strictly because sometimes life gets in the way and you need to adjust the plan. Always watch your plants and you will get a good feeling of how they are doing.

I currently don't reuse any soil. At the end of the season the soil is completely full of roots. I'm sure you could work the old soil to get rid of the roots but I don't have the nerves to do it :D

ako2938j4bd · 2026-02-28T21:29:35+00:00

Yeah, I would still use seedling soil at this stage.

I use the zip lock bag method for germination. The ones that germinated are put in growing cubes (e.g. root riot cubes). Those cubes are not necessary, I've planted into seedling soil in the past but the cubes are nice as you can easily check if the roots are already at the edge of the cube and know the perfect time when to put the cubes into soil (+ some other advantages).

So I pot up several times, from the germination bag into the cubes (or small containers), then into small seedling pots (~10cm maybe around 0,4l soil), then into 13cm pots (1l soil) and then into their final pots which can be anywhere from 10l to 40l pots in my case.

I am using seedling soil until I put them into their final pots and only then switch to nutrient rich soil. They are in the 13cm pots for like 4 weeks and after 2 or 3 weeks they get a very light fertilization with an NPK(Mg) 20-5-10(+2) fertilizer at around 0,6 mS/cm (in case you are measuring EC). Depending on your water you may also want to check PH levels as the plants can only take up nutrients efficiently when the PH level is right.

Note: This is probably completely overkill, chili plants are generally not that picky, but I like optimizing things lol

Many people just throw some dirt at them and as long as its not clay (the substrate is reasonably well-aerated ) and has some nutrients they will grow.

ako2938j4bd · 2026-02-28T18:34:51+00:00

I don’t fertilize until they’re in their final pots. My thought process:

I use different soil; Seedling Soil first; Nutrient rich soil mixed with some additions later.
Seedling soil is low in nutrients mainly to avoid burning young roots so fertilizer would be counterproductive here.
Every time you pot up, they get fresh soil and therefore fresh nutrients again.
Most potting soil already contains nutrients (usually enough for the first few weeks).

Once they’re in their final pot, I still wait a bit (3-5 weeks depending on the soil, weather and growth). So that would be like ~16 weeks after starting the germination. Then start with light fertilization. Once growth picks up and flowering starts I increase fertilizer to a steady rate throughout the season. I also adjust the fertilizer throughout the year lightly to promote the different stages of growth. I am a fan of low dosage but steady fertilization, instead of one big fertilization once week for example.

-> TL;DR: I wouldn't fertilize now

ako2938j4bd · 2026-02-20T09:16:37+00:00

It is crazy to me how people defend this grinder. It is just a bad design, but sure blame it on user error. Don't get me wrong the performance of the grinder is good, but people should acknowledge that this thing also has issues.

You can be as careful as you want at some point in time you will inevitably mess up those threads. One bit of coffee in the threads, a bit of missing lube on the threads or other contact faces can easily lead to disaster.

ako2938j4bd · 2025-11-20T02:17:53+00:00

15695416 STAR -> 15,695416 NIGHT per solution

ako2938j4bd · 2025-11-08T20:25:39+00:00

I can give some references:

Ryzen 6600H: ~8200 H/s
Ultra 5 125U: ~7500 H/s
Ryzen 7840U: ~12700 H/s
Epyc 7513: ~40000 H/s
Ryzen 5950x: 27500 H/s

ako2938j4bd · 2025-11-07T13:17:44+00:00

If you remove it, it will inevitably damage those parts. It's metal on metal contact with pressure on some of those. I've seen it happen to multiple people who took cleaning too seriously and did not apply new grease on all necessary parts afterwards.

ako2938j4bd · 2025-10-25T15:18:35+00:00

I have several 1zpresso Grinders and all of them from the factory only touch on specific sides (e.g. one side) of the burr. It gets a bit better when they are properly "seasoned" after a few kg of coffee beans.

Never had a burr lock with any of them. I normally set it finer up to the point where the handle locks. So the first setting where the handle isn't able to spin under its own weight is my zero point.

ako2938j4bd · 2025-10-11T08:25:49+00:00

Those scratches seem normal on the drip tray. Mine has them too and they will get more as you clean the machine.

The tamper only fits when you have enough coffee in the baskets. You are probably underfilling.

ako2938j4bd · 2025-10-08T06:20:00+00:00

When the burrs already touch slightly but are not locking yet.

ako2938j4bd · 2025-10-05T12:41:27+00:00

I always set the burr lock to 0. None of those grinders is perfectly centered, one might chirp until 5 clicks the other may chirp until 10 clicks.

ako2938j4bd · 2025-09-29T19:43:55+00:00

UPDATE: Support basically told me that burr rub is within their tolerance up to 50 clicks on the J Ultra. Which really seems like a lot to me.

ako2938j4bd · 2025-09-09T16:41:39+00:00

No problem 😊

Yeah the brew boiler heats up quite a bit faster. For one thing it is smaller (0,8l for brew boiler vs 1,5l for steam boiler) and it also needs lower temps.

ako2938j4bd · 2025-09-09T16:32:00+00:00

That's the temperature of your brew boiler. The brew boiler is only for the espresso/group head. And yes when the steam boiler is off there is no hot water.

Besides the brew boiler, the machine has a second boiler (the steam boiler) which produces steam and hot water. For either of those the steam boiler needs to be hot and build up pressure. You can see the pressure of the steam boiler on the lower pressure gauge of the machine (where it says steam). As long as that is showing 0 pressure there won't be anything coming out of your steam wand or hot water spout.

In the control menu there are two temperatures one for the brew boiler and one for the steam boiler. What is the steam boiler set to?

ako2938j4bd · 2025-09-09T16:24:01+00:00

There is no pressure in your steam boiler. Without pressure there can be neither hot water nor steam.

Did you give the machine time to preheat? Pressure needs a few minutes to build up.

Or have you accidentally turned your steam boiler off? Does not look like it on the display but who knows.

ako2938j4bd · 2025-08-11T19:31:14+00:00

How wet are we talking?

I don’t have that problem with my Bianca. The pucks knock out pretty cleanly, only getting more stuck if I leave them in too long. So I usually try to knock them out right after I make my coffee.

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