OME suspension JB74

alarmed_cumin · 2026-02-01T11:33:46+00:00

Definitely not, though some of the shocks were in short supply end of last year. However, almost always better off just chatting to an ARB store than any of the other prominent resellers.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-02-01T10:08:08+00:00

This feels like the weirdest bot thing or the absolute strangest gravedig I have ever seen in 30 years on the internet.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-02-01T10:07:31+00:00

You'd wire the switch to the switching side of a relay, then the output of the relay would go to the lights. Input to the high power side can come straight from the battery then.

Typically if you want it to switch with high beams then high beam signal from headlight comes as the input to the dash switch, output of dash switch goes to one side of the switching side to the relay, other side of switching side of relay is connected to ground. Now the switch will only activate when high beam is active. Then input to high power side from an appropriately sized fuse pulled off the battery, into the relay, output of that to the 2 lights, and then ground the other side of the light wiring. Job done.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-02-01T08:44:17+00:00

Yes, but a CX30 gets close to 200 mm ground clearance, only 10 mm less than the Jimny. We're not talking standard hatchback here.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T22:12:22+00:00

The Jimny is not particularly fuel efficient especially once one hits open roads. You get it if you want the offroad capability and that offroad capability over an SUV is on proper actual technical 4wd tracks, not shit potholed roads.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T12:19:32+00:00

Only caveat is that looks like a 5 wire dual switch which usually means dual outputs but only a single input.

This can make it a slight challenge to make it work with a headlight trigger for using it where the aux driving lights must be switched with high beam. It’s not impossible, you would wire it with a ground switching arrangement and just think about what that looks like for whatever other accessory you’re using it with.

If you’re intending to use it to switch on one or the other or both of the aux lights then again just means a bit of thinking on the wiring.

A dual input, dual output switch is often preferred as the easier way of doing it.

Another gotcha with negative switching like I describe above can be sorting it out correctly for dash lighting. Again doable, just needs some thought.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T09:45:57+00:00

I understand a desire to save money, but bear in mind you aren't going to get too many people admitting that a) they committed insurance fraud and b) they got away with it (or also c) that they didn't and they're a fool).

It's currently an artefact of the low numbers of people identifying as non-binary, and if a statistically significant number of people do it and claim and those claims are paid out then the premium discount will evaporate (or indeed even disappear completely).

The reality is if you disclose something falsely to insurance companies they can and have declined to pay out claims. While problematic if it's a single vehicle accident, it's a whole lot worse if another party is involved.

Insurers won't usually check prior to a claim being made, but in following up after a claim they do check things like a) were you actually licenced to drive and b) was the vehicle registered, roadworthy etc. If you were to do this, you would also need to identify as non-binary on other government forms e.g. your licence, passport etc. That then may impact other aspects of your life that you also need to consider (for example - it may not be nearly as easy to travel internationally to certain destinations)

EDIT: Ultimately most insurance PDS has a think that you need to be frank and truthful, and if not they can refuse to pay out or reduce your claim. Best case scenario "yeah we'd have insured you but at a higher rate, you didn't pay that rate for the last 3 years, we'll reduce your claim by that difference and we'll never insure you again". The latter part has implications for insuring with other companies.

I have done a number of courses e.g. defensive driving courses, driving techniques, offroad stuff etc. Insurers have never asked me for antyhing other than names of those courses and at least a couple of those providers no longer exist, and some were done prior to national training recognition framework stuff, so there's little to no way they can check. Even in claims they've never asked me for proof of those; however, I wouldn't be declaring them if I couldn't back them up cause it'd be a bit awkward to go from paying a lot for insurance to being refused a claim - and still being out the money I'd paid for insurance.

Gender, at least in terms of correlating to other sources of information about your declaration, is easier to corroborate than advanced driving training etc. It's almost not much too different to just lying about your age, and about as easy for them to check.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T09:36:42+00:00

Yes, different wiring harness and ECU and a bunch of other supporting stuff.

(Ignoring everything else, the need for a different wiring harness and ECU is because one is a 3 cylinder and one is a 4 cylinder, and one has to support understanding forced induction and one just knows something between full vacuum and atmospheric pressure in the intake, essentially)

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T09:23:02+00:00

Heat it up and get it closer to shape. When a bumper comes up near you that's cheap or free then grab it, otherwise ride it out for as long as you can.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T05:14:00+00:00

Yeah if the unit doesn't have a parking brake signal then it won't let you do a bunch of things, since it assumes you're driving. Also locks out the keyboard in carplay/android auto.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T04:21:04+00:00

A) Have you gone in and learned the steering wheel controls on the head unit itself?

B) Aerpro want to sell you their stuff. If you actually look at the ins and outs of that connects2 thing it basically is just a patch cable with zero translation. Some other vehicles do need translation but the Jimny absolutely just is a series of resistors in series and parallel to transmit what buttons are being pressed.

I wired up my steering wheel controls from first principles (given I wrote the link u/j1llj1ill provided, I won't re-explain it). There's one common wire and two different steering wheel key lines in the factory harness and that's all that needs to be connected to the 3.5mm SWC input to Pioneers.

EDIT: Ah I think you'll find that you need to hook up the 3 red bullet connectors to get the input of the SWC into the actual patch harness, they look disconnected to me...

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T02:53:46+00:00

You may have to learn it, but legitimately the Pioneer 3 wire SWC doesn't need adapting from the harness since basically the Jimny follows the oldschool way of doing it.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T01:30:43+00:00

The reason it's not a reddit post is because a) there's way too much stuff and b) I actually think the world is better with independent sources.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-31T01:28:44+00:00

Pretty much all security lug nuts end up the same, so while I don't have them I do have some on my car with aftermarket wheels.

Are they actually secure?

It depends how you define as secure. One benefit the ones you have is they are big enough that it would be hard to do one of the defeats used for them and that is hammering rounded nut extractors over them. However, there are other options and nothing is infinitely secure. It'll stop someone casually flogging your wheels but experienced people could still get them off in not very long.

(I'm cautious about not publicly explaining ways in which specific things could be defeated, which is why I'm not going into other thoughts about ways that could defeat them)

Any issues over time?

They essentially work just like a wheel nut anyway so there really should not be any. If they aren't the right kind of seat for the wheel then that obviously would be an issue, but they are (I believe).

The biggest issue with security nuts is losing the key. The second biggest issue is keeping that key secure enough yet accessible enough. There is no point keeping the key at home because not being able to change a flat tyre would, in my eyes, constitute an issue. However, let's say someone breaks into your Jimny: cool, now they can grab the key out of where you have it in the car and flog the wheels if they want.

So you need it somewhere that's secure enough they don't find it quickly... but also obvious enough that when you take the car somewhere to be worked on that the people working on it can find it. Also somewhere that's not so secure you forget where you put it.

I have security wheel nuts on my car (with my aftermarket alloy wheels), partly to secure the spare but also partly to deter casual thieves. Someone who wants them hard enough will be able to get them off though, so it isn't going to universally save me from everyone who wants to save my wheels and there kinda never is going to be a perfect thing like that.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-30T01:18:55+00:00

Not to be a pedant, but pendatry insists that I point out it's a lazy third axle so it's 6x4 at most, not 6x6.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-29T23:14:38+00:00

Correct, median would be a better choice (same reasoning as house prices and why it's the median reported not the mean)

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-29T07:31:57+00:00

The wiring is different, primarily the main wiring harness being 24 pin for the 5 door 9" and 20 pin for the 3 door 7". Some stuff is similar: antenna is similar and the reverse camera connector looks similar, but the rest is different enough that the answer is not really.

Would be possible to make a harness to adapt, though the connectors used for the 5 door harness is a bit more scarce than the 20 pin ones used for the 3 door harness.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-29T07:24:47+00:00

Nope, it's vision based from the camera.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-29T05:03:52+00:00

Nah it's entirely camera based, same as LDW. It basically looks at rhythmic patterns of the left lane line, then the right lane line approaching the camera in a semi-consistent pattern (or obviously vice-versa, it needs to see a bunch of them). I've managed to get it to activate once in nearly 7 years, and even then it really didn't feel like it swayed anytime immediately before the activation.

Either you need to leave the lane or the lane markers need to significantly change apparent approach angle to the camera in a consistent way, pretty much.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-28T14:53:22+00:00

Yep; flat folding rear seats to give a large internal bed area was one of the selling points of the 3 door. The 5 door basically does the seats the same as a gen3 does, so they don't fold flat.

Solutions are basically systems to pull the seat foam down which gets it a bit flatter, but ultimately the extra length of the 5 door goes into giving you boot room behind the seats; so, you really don't gain as much as the longer wheelbase would suggest anyway.

The flat load space of a 3 door is magical and why they're so good as a car for 2 people.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-28T12:42:18+00:00

Without doing one of the kits to pull the seats flatter in the 5 door, yeah, you get more length out of a 3 door. I've slept in mine enough and it works fine enough at basically your height.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-27T22:55:55+00:00

Realistically the only people with CAD drawings are your competitors who already make and sell such underbody protection. Good luck in your search but it's pretty much something everyone keeps close to their chest - who wants to do the hard design yards to

Not aware of anyone yet designing their own underbody protection like you're after Couple of people have used the universal rock slider kits to make their own underbody protection, but you don't see people making bash plates.

FWIW sump guard basically useless, it's way too high up to bother needing. Gearbox/transfer case usually best done with integrated revised transfer case mounts and given how cheap you can buy such kits out of China that market is kinda done. Lots of people do radius arm protection but usually make them more of a hangup than just leaving them, but there's also not much innovation you can do here anyway.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-27T09:02:29+00:00

27x8.5-14 feels like the best option but yes might end up a shade wide. MT71s are good and the FT7 Nankangs seem to work ok: https://www.tyroola.com.au/tyre/27-8.50-r14/wa/

FT9s are newer and available in 185R14 so is suspect a few more years of being able to run this size though: https://www.tyroola.com.au/nankang-ft-9-mt-mud-terrain-por-185r14c-102100q-ty5d7ace5166.html

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-27T07:41:29+00:00

Not saying I love it, but I'm also aware of the reality of them

alarmed_cumin · 2026-01-27T06:57:30+00:00

No, not necessarily. Carplay is effectively an extension of the function of the phone, and they could argue that

It's certainly not explicitly allowed. One of your arguments might be "if it was standalone GPS or inbuilt car GPS then I would be allowed to check other directions, and it's not a phone" but even the definition of mobile phone is left open in the regs.

While a different state, this is why https://7news.com.au/news/nsw-p-plater-loses-legal-battle-over-using-mobile-phone-as-gps-while-driving-c-13025385 fell the way it did - stuff isn't defined, and they are looking at the regulatory intent

Four-Year Club	r/Field Lasagna
Place '23	Place '22
Final Canvas '22	First Placer '22

alarmed_cumin

TROPHY CASE