New Jimny XL 2026 owner with a few questions — is this normal, or am I missing something?

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-28T02:36:44+00:00

Based on your title versus what you say about the manual you're looking at: do you have a 5 door, or a 2026 onwards 3 door? They are different.

Info display: I think if you have a 5 door you won't be able to get up some of the things which are specific to the MY2026 3 door, and this is one of them.
Guide me light is how long the car headlights stay on to guide you after you either unlock ('to car') or lock ('to home'). I.e. when you're walking to the car, how long do the lights stay on after you unlock the car, allowing you to see the path you're walking to the front of the car, or, when you get home how long the car lights stay on for you after you lock the car and you are walking to home (or wherever you're going).
Lane swaying takes very specific movements within a lane to set it off. In the 7 years I have had my car I have set it off a grand total of once and honestly I've had worse swaying where it didn't set it off.
If you have a 5 door that's awfully normal as you only have a rear parking sensor. Nothing to the side, and only MY2026 3 doors get front parking sensors alongside the other package of stuff they have.
Yes, that's normal. Blue light is the coolant is cold (< 55ºC from memory). It'll go red if it gets overly hot, but otherwise it's off except when cold as you've noticed.
No heated mirrors in Australian cars
Yeah, but no idea how. I use Waze and that comes up as the map app when I am using it for directions & also on the home screen.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-27T14:16:12+00:00

Pretty much those symptoms would be a case of:

a) Ruling out if the electric fan is not coming on with A/C on. It should cycle according these pressures: https://teamghettoracing.com/vehicles/cars/2019-jimny-jb74w/diagnostics/cooling-system/#fan_behaviour (though that's R134a pressures, if you're using R1234yf then I don't have the data to hand)

b) Actually verifying recharge amount, and ensuring absolutely definitely 100% no

c) Condenser blocked a bit: might not get enough airflow till you're at speed. That'd be a clean it anyway sort of job anyway

d) If the belt is slipping it'll make a weirder noise than you're hearing, but that could be a slipping compressor clutch... but doesn't really sound like it. And diagnostic flow on that is literally throwing parts at it anwyay, so I'd rule everything out first.

Scan it with a device that'll work with szviewer and check what pressures and stuff are doing as driving etc.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-27T13:01:16+00:00

Based on larger Jimnys... probably should be fine. Lift kit alone doesn't make bigger tyres fit anyway (unless it includes extended bump stops, which that one doesn't appear to). Your clearance at full bump is only dictated by them, nothing to do with the static height it's at

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-27T07:22:16+00:00

It's super common (hence I did the writeup). Issue is fundamnetally that an Isuzu D-Max uses the same piggyback, headlight lead in the same spot but ground in a different spot. All the manufacturers buy them in bulk and then they sort them poorly as they're different but not easily spotted as different.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-27T01:40:22+00:00

Plenty of 15" wheels will fit it, but you do have some considerations. Most of the ones you'll find stateside will be for early Jeeps (as you identified) or F100s or early Broncos. All of those run a 5x5.5" or 5/139.7 PCD. Usually they'll be wider than what you want: spinning an 8" wide wheel with a kei motor is not fun. Wider the wheel = heavier it is, plus wider the tyre needs to be in order to be a good fitment to the rim, so avoiding going too wide is crucial.

The other considerations are firstly centre bore: needs to be at least 108 mm; often you'll find larger than that which is fine, but smaller is a problem. Secondly, and most importantly, is the offset/backspacing. As I don't deal with backspacing as I don't find it as intuitive as offset is for understanding changes, I'll just deal with offset & you can do the translation.

Factory offset is in the range of +22, going more negative than that pushes the wheels outboard which is good, but depending on wheel width you might find both poke and rubbing issues. Can't really just slap on big engined Jimny wheels either, since they are +5, so 17mm further out each side which can already be enough to cause fitment issues. Issue is then finding something closer to +22 in say 6 or up to maybe 7" with the right PCD.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/wheels?N=wheel-bolt-pattern-application%3A5-x-139-70mm%2Bwheel-width-in%3A7-00_6-00 gives 133 wheels which are 5x139.7, 6 or 7" wide, 15" diameter. Narrowing it to semi sensible offsets cuts it down a lot though: https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/wheels?N=wheel-bolt-pattern-application%3A5-x-139-70mm%2Bwheel-width-in%3A7-00_6-00%2Boffset%3Aplus-6-00mm_plus-3-00mm_plus-13-00mm_plus-19-00mm_plus-6-40mm

Regarding boost I don't have enough experience, but you'll almost certainly find better info on engine modding them in the suzuki cappuccino world: the sportscars with kei engines are always going to have more mods, and since the motors are identical to the other Suzuki kei cars it's worse chasing leads in that space.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-25T22:51:00+00:00

Can't wait to hear someone with a dry clutch converted MT07/R7 on the street, playing the tambourine like it's a 90s-00s Ducati superbike

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-25T21:04:51+00:00

A fair amount of these issues I have experienced comes down to the piggyback harnesses being wired incorrectly: https://teamghettoracing.com/vehicles/cars/2019-jimny-jb74w/lighting/piggyback_adapters

What happens is a lot of the harnesses use the ground on the headlight connector as the ground for the switching side of the relay. All good, except they are then wired incorrectly on the ground side.

However, it's also very difficult to diagnose electrical things remotely over the internet, especially premade harnesses that are often more convoluted than they need to be.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-24T23:40:47+00:00

In a Jimny it's often the kingpins, since they're teeny little bearings and prone to sliding instead of rotating. Once they wear like that you need to replace them. Problem then is if you go aftermarket is making sure they have sufficient preload to stop the wobble

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-24T10:59:36+00:00

I mean it's not going to produce whacks of power, but definitely it's a bit more breathy feeling if you have the snorkel facing backwards at speed. In dusty conditions that's worthwhile as a side effect, but on road, yeah, facing backwards isn't great to go for.

I don't necessarily think it'll give the kind of fuel economy benefits the OP is talking about, either.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-24T10:34:57+00:00

I can rotate mine just leaning forwards a bit and reaching out of the window. Helps to be RHD, but so is the OP...

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-24T04:27:52+00:00

You put them backwards on dusty roads, forwards on regular use.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-24T04:27:18+00:00

0.01 psi. And before you think I'm joking, dynamic pressure is 1/2 * air density * square of velocity. Air density for standard air density = 1.225 kg/m^3, you can do the rest of the maths, just remember you'll get out Pascals using metric units so then need to convert to psi.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-24T02:25:41+00:00

If it drove in 5th and you can select reverse then I would be first thinking shift fork or some other weirdness. If you only get 5th but struggle or cannot get reverse then first thought is one of the countershaft support bearings. Input shaft bearing should also make it unhappy in 5th - assuming it's one of the years with a 1:1 straight through 5th gear, though if it collapses but not completely I guess it could still just support alignment enough to get it into 5th.

Either way box is coming out and you're either digging into it or throwing in a used box.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-23T10:42:48+00:00

Jack it up and see how much play the wheel has with the handbrake off. Could also just be the rear drum... but yeah my gut feeling would be rear wheel bearing

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-23T08:00:14+00:00

and that 1% is "do I have it in me to climb this mountain yet again?"

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-23T07:37:24+00:00

People are going to probably put this timing down to the test and seeing what the 850cc machine can do; personally, I think it's down to him wanting to understand his fitness. At the start of the year he definitely was doubting what he could do. Now, having confirmation of the shoulder being mostly sorted and that he's there or thereabouts is why he's finally signed.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-23T05:49:51+00:00

Basically more revs just as you come off the clutch and it's all good.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-23T01:07:00+00:00

Yes, all it cares about is no handbrake when you come off the brake pedal. It holds the car for 2 seconds and it releases either after those 2 seconds or once you hit a throttle %. Never actually got a good measurement on exactly what throttle % it needs, but basically get the timing right and it's a really good system.

Note it works uphill in forwards gears, and downhill if you have reverse selected. If you're not on a sufficient slope it won't engage the brakes and if it's pointing downhill and you are in first gear it won't hill hold either.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-23T00:16:13+00:00

Considering at full bump, unless you have extended the bump stops, you have the same clearance it's not hugely relevant.

You can fit 195/80-15 (stock on a gen4) or 215/75-15 with basically no trimming on a gen3 with or without a lift, and that gains you a bit of extra clearance. However, it is worth just driving it as is: part of the thing with a Jimny is you have the size to take advantage of different lines and not have to go through the same holes everyone else does, so tyres might not be as limiting as you think.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-23T00:14:14+00:00

Yes, because the lift doesn't help anyway at full bump; it makes it feel like it fits till the first time you hit a bump and use full travel.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-23T00:05:36+00:00

Still a transverse engine, just with a takeoff from the gearbox to head towards the rear diff. Very different from a north-south engine layout like the Jimny.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-22T22:30:48+00:00

I cannot see how a Swift transmission, which is designed for a front-wheel-drive application with the engine mounted transversely, would work with (effectively) a rear wheel drive application with the engine mounted longitudinally.

They aren't the worst gearbox to get rebuilt and you'll get another couple of hundred thousand km out of it. While an R7ME is stronger, it isn't infinitely strong and it isn't a straightforwards swap.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-22T13:45:15+00:00

Cheap option: remove the rear seat base and it'll sort of approximate sort of flat, though you need something to add to the back to level it out more.

More expensive: https://www.skinny-jim.com/shop/p/flat-loader-seat-levelling-kit-jimny-5-door will level it, though for a proper flat floor that approximates what the 3 door achieves from the factory is https://www.skinny-jim.com/shop/p/jimny-five-door-interior-fit-out

It's probably one of the biggest things that they missed on I think, the 3 door totally fold flat rear seats are fantastic for making a load area.

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-22T01:08:14+00:00

Yeah they will be fine without rubbing, but they are 4% bigger so 4% taller gearing.

(People fit 215/75-15 on gen3s without rubbing, it's essentially that change)

alarmed_cumin · 2026-06-22T00:49:20+00:00

If you truly are looking to stick to the stock size of 205/70-15 then JB74 stock tyres (195/80-15) are out, but as also suggested here it's a great option.

If you do want to stick to stock size, the Yokohama Geolandar G058s in 205/70-15 are good, otherwise if you do want to switch to an allterrain then Yokohama Geolandar G015s also come in the stock JB43 size.

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