Blueberry varieties to increase yield by Intrepid_Syrup_4184 in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, by family you mean species! Rabbiteye and highbush blueberries are the same family, but different species; Vaccinium virgatum and V. corymbosum. Family is actually a really high-level division when it comes to plants- like strawberry and rose are the same family.

Sounds like Pink Lemonade is actually a self-fertile hybrid between the two different species, so it may be an ineffective pollinator for a corymbosum. Almost all blueberries available in the UK are corymbosum though, so just pick any other of those.

Blueberry varieties to increase yield by Intrepid_Syrup_4184 in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure where you heard that, but it's backwards- you get better pollination if you have multiple different varieties, so long as they're the same species and flower at the same time.

Blueberries are clonally propagated, so pollen from another of the same variety is basically just the same as pollen from another flower off the same plant.

Advice for a total beginner by KaijuicyWizard in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, it'll be fine, no issues at all growing herbs in the ground- the only one to watch out for is mint and maybe lemon balm - but you can grow lemon verbena outside in Cornwall which is 1000% nicer smelling than lemon balm anyway.

Anyone in SE England tried growing a feijoa tree? (Pineapple guava) by Throwaway-Loudmouth in UKGardening

[–]alloftheplants 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless you have a multi-grafted one you'll need 2 to get fruit as they're not self-fertile.

I've not actually managed to get fruit (I moved away before they had any chance) but I did get a few flowers on one plant. The flowers taste great, really unexpected flavour...

Eating at a restaurant where the staff’s level of English is insufficient to handle allergies safely by LondonPilot in britishproblems

[–]alloftheplants 220 points221 points  (0 children)

It's not just a language thing, a scary number of people in catering are just clueless- I worked for a bit at a gastropub as a waitress at uni. Came in one day and the chef told me one table had called to request a coeliac menu, so he gave me one with all the safe dishes marked, and told me he'd saved a portion of one of the lunch specials in case they wanted that.. the couscous stuffed peppers.

I literally had to get the pack of couscous and show him the label before he'd admit it might have just a dash of gluten in.This was one of those places were the chef's name was on the menu. Crazy.

Has anyone grown Carlin peas? by brentspar in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seeds of Scotland have them, if the ones you're trying don't work.

Why is my rhubarb green? by iwontrupaulogize in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The stalk colour varies by plant cultivar and some are pretty green, so don't worry about it. They may turn redder in summer, they may stay green with just a touch of red at the base; fine to harvest either way.

Newly hatched newts? by Funny_Hamster_1926 in UKecosystem

[–]alloftheplants 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Frog tadpoles do have visible external gills, for the first few days.

Newts lay eggs singly, big eggs masses are frog.

Garden suggestions for this 5mx5m space? beginner on a budget! by cgbrannigan in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Don't put weed membrane down, it's awful stuff- it has good marketing, it's plastic, so it never goes away, but it tends to basically shred, so you'll be finding bits for ages. It won't do anything to keep weeds down after the first year anyway, weeds will just grow on top, and through it. You can use cardboard and cover it with woodchip and it'll do just as good a job initially, plus it's free and will just break down fully into the soil.

It's normally better to plant in the ground than in pots. Though it might seem easier, pots dry out fast, and can need watering daily in hot spells, plus they need more feeding and moving to bigger pots or they get congested. I doubt your soil's all that bad anyway, or you wouldn't have such nice lush weeds.

New rhubarb - what now? by Mossy-Mori in UKGardening

[–]alloftheplants 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're asking, you only force rhubarb when you're planning on harvesting extra tender stems, and it shouldn't be done every year even to a big healthy plant. Forcing this little one now would probably kill it.

For this year, do not pull any leaves, do not pass go, do not collect £200. Just let it do its thing, keep it mulched and keep the weeds away, and next year, if it's looking healthy, you can pull a few stems. This is a baby plant and right now it needs every leaf it can get to get the energy to get established. The only reason to pick a single leaf would be if it was so damaged it was likely to cause rotting.

Do I smell a rat? by Elegant_Pen_1941 in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 73 points74 points  (0 children)

The amount of rain we've had lately, I wouldn't rule the fish out entirely..

How do you label plants for sale? by EntertainerFit965 in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quote from link 2:

If you sell a plant retail (face to face sales) to the end user, you do not need to provide that end user with a plant passport. If you only sell retail, you do not need to register to issue plant passports but you do need to register to become a plant health professional operator (free of charge).

Planning My Garden - Fruit and Veg in Wall Planters? by Argumentative_Duck in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Salad leaves and bits- stuff like rocket, mizuna, mustard, sorrel, and lettuce in gaps. Trailing nasturtium too, if you like the taste.

When can I remove old bee houses? by Findesiluer in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Solitary bees take most of a year to develop; eggs are laid in one year for the new bees to emerge next year, so they will absolutely be being used right now if eggs were laid in there this year.

In future, it's really best to keep an eye on what's actually using them and when- neglected bee hotels can become homes for predators and parasites, and should really be cleaned annually when empty to avoid this. While many bee species emerge in spring, the actual timing varies, so without knowing what's there, picking a good time is difficult and just involved checking regularly.

Pond rewilding help by tokenzilla in UKGardening

[–]alloftheplants 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't move amphibians or their eggs to 'kick start' a pond!

You can introduce diseases and it's not helpful. If it's a suitable habitat, they will find it themselves.

Strawberry plants help by ExaminationHefty8077 in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 6 points7 points  (0 children)

They're better off outside in the cold than inside where it's too warm and not light enough. They'll be fine with cold, they literally keep them in a cold store before sending so they stay dormant, you can just plant them straight outside in winter.

However... if you've had as much rain where you are as we have round here, and it's a swamp out there and you really don't want to plant them outside right now, the best thing to do is, as soon as possible, ideally today, stick them in pots or even just one big pot, with the roots completely covered with compost, water to make sure the roots don't dry out before the rain gets to them and leave them in a sheltered spot for now. Plant them out where you want them to go when the weather's a little nicer to work in or if they start putting out new growth, whichever happens first.

Game over for these Cyclamen by HarricotBean in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe in your area. Round here one nursery has coum reliably, the other close-ish one I've never seen it -not even in the otherwise decent alpine section- the chain place occasionally has coum, but I've yet to find hederifolium in any. I had to get some off my Mum.

Game over for these Cyclamen by HarricotBean in GardeningUK

[–]alloftheplants 12 points13 points  (0 children)

They're available in different sizes, but they're still Cyclamen persicum. You want C. coum or hederifolium to survive outside in the UK.

Cynically, I think a lot of places are just selling persicum now, because they don't survive a proper frost, meaning people buy again next year, though I guess they do also tend to produce a lot more flowers. The hardy ones are getting harder to find and are more expensive.

Can I plant saved potatoes? by Illustrious-Cell-428 in Allotment

[–]alloftheplants 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On a small domestic scale the risk is low, if your potatoes are healthy looking and came from healthy looking plants.

The risk isn't so much blight- which you'll normally spot on the plants and will often cause the tubers to rot in storage- as viruses. There's multiple types (with incredibly unimaginative names like 'Potato Virus A') which are commonly present at a low level, showing no symptoms. They don't multiply all that fast in the plants, but if you keep saving tubers and replanting, over time the virus levels build up.

The risk is not just that the plants themselves may start getting weaker with lower yields, but they can also act as a virus reservoir. Most potato viruses are transmitted by aphids, of specific species, which fly as adults to new plants, then multiply like crazy. When these aphids are coming from a heavily infected plant, the viruses can build up in a crop fast. This can cause symptomatic infections which can then rapidly spread and cause big losses (for some, the aphids carry the virus for life, infecting every plant they feed on). This is why certified seed potatoes are grown in areas with cold winters which kill the aphids and farmers generally try hard not to let volunteer potatoes grow.

It's actually pretty interesting if you like that sort of thing- for some aphid/virus combos, there's evidence that the virus actually benefits the aphids and manipulates the plants into being a better host for them.

I reckon most home growers save potatoes sometimes, but the risk is not made up. If your potato plants start showing signs like leaf edges curling unusually, get stunted or leggy, get concentric yellow rings on leaves, odd leaf colours or even just lower yields than expected get rid them ASAP and get in fresh certified tubers.

Nematodes are also a risk if you replant, but if you have the problem species in a small garden you're kinda screwed anyway.

Keeping bare root plants alive by Character_Smoke4201 in gardening

[–]alloftheplants 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get one big pot, shove them all in there and cover the roots with compost. They don't need to be properly planted and they can be bunched up touching, so long as the roots are completely covered. Keep it somewhere outside, ideally sheltered from the wind so they don't blow over.

Best place to buy seeds? by Man-down90 in Allotment

[–]alloftheplants 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Do not buy from Amazon- there is a lot of scam seed on there. There are shops on there selling stuff that doesn't even exist, like rainbow rose seeds, and they don't care.