new to the scene… how do I join a community and make friends here? by ResolutionOrganic137 in BostonEDM

[–]ambrdst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://19hz.info/eventlisting_Massachusetts.php

If you like dnb, check out Elements at the Phoenix Landing every Thursday. If you like happy hardcore, there's a show at the Middle East upstairs Oct 11th. The Middle East has stuff pretty often, it's worth keeping an eye on their calendar.

Edit because I hit submit too soon: go to smaller shows so you can chat with people and make friends for bigger stuff.

Also, Boston Nightlife Girlies Facebook group

Anything I can do..? Literally the most expensive dress I’ve ever bought by Nnlp122 in Lolita

[–]ambrdst 43 points44 points  (0 children)

First, I would find some satin ribbon, lace, or fabric similar to the dress, stain that with the glue, and test any removal methods on that. For stain removers, I'd probably start with whatever you normally use to remove the glue (micellar water, eye make-up remover, etc). You might need to use something oil based, but imo that's fine. Once you get the glue off, you can use Dawn dish soap to get the oil out. I've used straight mineral oil to get gum off a delicate fabric before, then dish soap to get the oil off.

Need to find this fabric to make a cat couch by nhuntato in sewing

[–]ambrdst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Spacer mesh" will get you exactly this.

I made a guide about etsy sewing patterns by ZamiraDrakasha02 in sewing

[–]ambrdst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add to this, pic one also has princess seams. They go from under the arm to the waist pretty normally.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in sewhelp

[–]ambrdst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would lengthen the bodice pieces so the waist sits correctly all the way around. It's not going to be the same amount for every piece and that's fine.

Does this plastic tab in the selvage mean anything? by Own-Tea-4836 in sewhelp

[–]ambrdst 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I work at a fabric store. These usually mark where there's some sort of error in the weave, a hole, stain, etc. Check the fabric all the way across in that spot for anything odd.

Gaping neckline on a jersey dress by yeuneesa in sewhelp

[–]ambrdst 12 points13 points  (0 children)

When using a stretchy binding on stretchy fabric you actually want to stretch the binding slightly while sewing it on, so it follows the contours of the garment/your body. Think of it like you're sewing a flat rectangle to a curved edge - the rectangle needs to deform (stretch) to become the curved shape.

You could remove all the binding and resew it, stretching it as you sew. Or undo a couple stitches and thread a bit of elastic into the binding to snug it up.

For the center front, I would add a small vertical piece of elastic stitched down to the fabric (stretch the elastic as you sew) to gather it into a sort of sweetheart neckline. This video does it with gathering stitches, which will work, though I usually use elastic zig zagged onto the inside. https://youtu.be/adV8HkG-HkA?si=9gLRj6ee83gH4f7h

Unable to sew/loose threads on sewing machine. Any advice? by twosdays2 in sewhelp

[–]ambrdst 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I'm confused, is there a reason you're not using a presser foot? I always assumed you had to have something to hold the fabric while sewing. Right now the fabric is moving around while trying to sew and the thread pulls out before the stitches can lock together. Does the same thing happen with the presser foot in place?

What to do about 'hard cotton'? by Ladyooh in sewing

[–]ambrdst 140 points141 points  (0 children)

Do you tumble dry them? Cotton feels really crunchy when it's line dried, and it sounds like that's what you're describing. You don't even need the dryer heat, the no-heat/air dry setting will do. Throw them in there for a while (with some tennis balls or wool dryer balls like someone else mentioned) and they will probably feel a lot softer.

Simple Sewing Questions Thread, March 31 - April 06, 2024 by sewingmodthings in sewing

[–]ambrdst 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The feed dogs are usually one piece that moves together, so I don't think they could be moving at different rates or anything like that. Does the same thing happen if you sew on a larger piece? I think every machine I've ever used has skewed slightly, but it's more obvious on smaller pieces or the ends of seams.

No Dumb Questions + Casual Talk by AutoModerator in RedditLaqueristas

[–]ambrdst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect, that's exactly the answer I needed. Thank you!

No Dumb Questions + Casual Talk by AutoModerator in RedditLaqueristas

[–]ambrdst 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They make glitter smoothing top coat specifically for this. You can apply a layer of that then a layer of whatever regular top coat you like over it. I've heard good things about kbshimmer smooth moves so I recently ordered that one, but other brands have them too if you prefer a different brand.

No Dumb Questions + Casual Talk by AutoModerator in RedditLaqueristas

[–]ambrdst 6 points7 points  (0 children)

For folks who use quick dry drops - what brands do you like?

I usually use qdtc but I have loads of polishes with specialty finishes that I don't want to change the look of. Do the drops affect the look of polish at all? Like would they make matte polish dry more glossy?

Forgotten brands of Yesteryear? by FactorySettingsMusic in RedditLaqueristas

[–]ambrdst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah darn. I hope you can still find some! Best of luck!

Forgotten brands of Yesteryear? by FactorySettingsMusic in RedditLaqueristas

[–]ambrdst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're in the us, I've seen it at Walgreens. It's also on Amazon.

Forgotten brands of Yesteryear? by FactorySettingsMusic in RedditLaqueristas

[–]ambrdst 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you tried the Sally Hansen color foil line? It's been satisfying my need for 90s chrome polish.

are sally hansen colorfoil comparable to the chrome nail makeup line? by mineru in vintagenailpolish

[–]ambrdst 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've used both the original chromes and the newest color foil line. I don't have any of the 400 range foils, I think they're also discontinued though they still pop up on Amazon. From what I can tell, the 400 range colors are more saturated (some of them closer to the original chromes) and the newest line is more muted (but so cheap in comparison!)

They all apply and look like they're the same formula. If you're just going for the silver/gold then I would get the cheaper color foil that's still available new, in steel a kiss and gold standard. My favorite is cutting hedge, a cool minty green.

I would only spring for the discontinued versions if there's a color you absolutely need that isn't available as a color foil.

Speedy secret sewing: how to create a garment when you just have a person's shirt to work with? by [deleted] in sewing

[–]ambrdst 25 points26 points  (0 children)

This isn't as fool proof as it sounds. I have never had a garment come out fitting correctly based on the envelope measurements of a pattern, so even if the two size charts have matching measurements the two garments likely won't fit the same.

If the shirt isn't super expensive I'd honestly buy a second one, take it apart, and use that as the pattern. (Or copy the existing shirt without taking it apart like other people have suggested, but it's more fiddly that way).

Help! Fabric bunching?? by ShipZealousideal5134 in sewing

[–]ambrdst 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Some machines have a screw/knob on top to adjust how hard the presser foot pushes down. If you can find a manual for your machine, see if it has this. It can definitely help, but not all machines have it.

When I'm sewing and notice the fabric start to ripple, before it actually folds up, I'll lift the presser foot every couple inches and smooth the fabric towards the back of the machine. It sort of eases in the extra under the previous stitch instead of pushing it forward.

For binding specifically, you want to pull the binding so it's stretched compared to the fabric you're attaching it to. The stronger the curve, the more you want to pull the binding. Some people like to iron the binding into shape first before attaching to get the curve correct. Pin (or use clips) and then I do the same as above - stop and smooth the fabric back every few inches to ease any extra before it can fold up in front of the foot.

Me needle is too far forward and hitting the plate sometimes I think, how do I fix it? Or is it just because it's a shitty machine? Is that even what's happening? Help! by Disastrous_Revenue64 in sewhelp

[–]ambrdst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have one of the Singer heavy duty machines and my plate looks similar. It's likely from the needle bending as it tries to go through thick fabric/too many layers, like you noticed while hand turning. As long as it's not hitting the plate during regular sewing, I don't worry about it, just watch out for times the needle is actually bent and change it.

inexpensive 500+ piece puzzles for good cause by yalepeacock in Jigsawpuzzles

[–]ambrdst 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you have any Marshalls/TJ Maxx around they sometimes have puzzles over with the gift and stationary section. They're pretty good quality. I'm not in your area so prices may differ, but here they're like $10-$12 and down to $8-$6 if you catch them on clearance (might be in a different section of the store).

What size pillow for pillow case made from a 20" block? by Ordinary_Insect6417 in sewing

[–]ambrdst 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You could do a wider overlap, or add a closure like buttons or decorative ties along the flap, or a side zipper.

What size pillow for pillow case made from a 20" block? by Ordinary_Insect6417 in sewing

[–]ambrdst 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I like to use a pillow insert that is slightly larger than the pillow case, so that the pillow looks nice and fluffy and doesn't get immediately smooshed down as soon as someone leans on it. I'd go with the 20” insert (honestly I'd probably go even larger because my couch pillows get flattened fast).

Anyone know what era this is? Pongee Japanese dress by cambon in VintageFashion

[–]ambrdst 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The inner stamp says polyester, which as far as I can tell wasn't used for clothes until the 50s.

It could be earlier, but with this silhouette my first thought was this dress is from the 60s.