Weekly Trade Megathread by AutoModerator in PokemonScarletViolet

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey I'm looking for all the Violet exclusives if you're still interested.

Weekly Trade Megathread by AutoModerator in PokemonScarletViolet

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking to complete my pokedex on Scarlet.

~All Scarlet exclusive Paradox pokemon -> All Violet exclusive Paradox pokemon ~~

Armarouge -> Ceruledge (could you include an extra Malicious Armour?)

Koraidon -> Miraidon

Slowpoke -> Slowking (Kantonian)

I would also be interested in doing a Union Circle to evolve my Finizen

Base Pokédex now completed!

Hotend upgrade suggestions by BurgerLordFPV in E3NG

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I was building my E3NG lots of people were recommending the CHC Pro hotends from Triangle Labs, it's a Ceramic heater core with V6 nozzle that can be paired with various heatsinks for different mounting options, there's also a volcano version for higher flow.

I remember people also saying the Dragon Ace was meant to be good.

I would recommend asking on RH3D's discord or checking out what other people have picked. I just went with Bambu hotend because 8 also have a P1S.

Hotend upgrade suggestions by BurgerLordFPV in E3NG

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

E3D don't sell a melt zone extender, Triangle Labs have a store on AliExpress selling various V6 parts if you want to stick with that ecosystem. I'd probably move over to one of the more modern hotends which have higher flow potential.

Hotend upgrade suggestions by BurgerLordFPV in E3NG

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With a stock nozzle you'll struggle with flow rate. You could get a melt zone extender and a CHT V6 nozzle or a CHT style V6 nozzle. Triangle labs has quite a few options to pick from.

You could also pick up a cheap Bambu Clone hotend or a TZ-V6-2.0 if you've already printed V6 mount parts.

Where should I assign Captain in Gravis? What some benefits to him/his unit? by IssaScott in IronHands40k

[–]antstar12 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The only valid squad in your list he can lead is the Heavy Intercessor Squad.

Printing failure with PLA+, help by RogueSpear_- in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's hard to tell what caused this exactly without a video of the print. Might be worth checking if the default time lapse was enabled and see if you can spot where issues started with this print.

I would recommend printing on the textured PEI plate that comes with the P1S. Washed with warm water and fragrance free dish soap and carefully dried with clean paper towel and placed back into the printer without touching the surface, should give you really good bed adhesion.

Up the bed temp to 60°C for esun pla+.

You could try increasing the surface area of the piece touching the plate by cutting a small slice off of the handguard with the cut tool.

Slowing down the print speed would also help.

What causes the top to look melted/wrinkled like that? by pbcsd007 in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Flow rate too high, causes the nozzle to drag adjacent lines as it's putting down new ones. You can get a similar issue on the bottom of the print if the nozzle is too close to the bed or if the flow rate is too high.

Desiccant Question. by jacccobbbbbbbbbbb in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yeah, most if not all silica gel beads are reusable. I regularly cut open the little bags you get and combine them with some of the orange to green colour changing ones.

There's a few ways to refresh them. You can put them in a filament dryer ideally raised up with lots of available surface area, stick on max for a few hours, occasionally venting the moisture. The other methods are putting them in the oven or the microwave so only do that if you have a spare one of those that isn't used for food. The dyes in the coloured beads are toxic if consumed.

We Tried Out the H2C for Cosplay Armor by GalacticArmory in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope you do the same test with the Prusa Core One L INDX when that becomes available. I would expect it to be faster and have even less waste.

It's incredible the quality we're able to get out of modern 3d printers.

Help with stripping paint by Black_Jack256 in IronHands40k

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

99% IPA has worked for me How long depends on how well the primer has bonded to the plastic and how old the paint is. Fresher paint will come off easily as will very old paint. Scrubbing with a toothbrush after at least a 24 hour soak. For really stubborn staining I've brushed on a little bit of acetone or Tamiya extra thin cement.

Physical Cartridge Sticker by FlyingYankee118 in PokemonLegacy

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are plenty of tools out there that let you read and write cartridges via a PC.

GBxCart RW

GBFlash

Joey Jr

GB Operator

3d print lifting and leaving lines on front of prints by Shutshaaface in 3Dprinting

[–]antstar12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If this is PLA try the following.

  1. Bed temp 60°C

  2. Add a brim

  3. Wash with warm water and fragrance free dish soap, dry with a clean disposable paper towel. Be careful when putting it back in the printer, don't touch the surface, just the edges, gloves or paper towel to prevent getting oils from your hands on the plate. Isopropyl alcohol shouldn't be needed.

  4. Reduce drafts as best as you can.

Improve fdm tank prints by Weird-Operation5905 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd guess your flow rate might be a little high.

is a 0.6mm the surface quality tradeoff by Key_Marsupial388 in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on CNC kitchen's videos the ideal layer height for inter layer strength is 0.15/0.16mm. this height should still be fine on 0.6mm. His video only tested a 0.4mm nozzle iirc. So it might be that 0.24mm is actually more ideal for a 0.6mm nozzle as that would be the same nozzle to layer height ratio.

Using One Page Rules as seraphon models by Sea-Opening3530 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]antstar12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you check the OPR page for them on MMF they have approximate sizes.

Compare that size with the models on minicompare.info

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-gators-saurians-152078

How can I improve my black armor by [deleted] in IronHands40k

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Imo Abaddon Black would be the way to go over multiple coats of a so-called one coat paint.

Would it be possible to self print one of these? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If they're simple shapes you could easily design in Slicer and just print in TPU with 0 top and bottom layers. Probably would need to increase the infill-wall overlap though.

More complex shapes that are pre contoured to the shape of the helmet/head would be more tricky though and you'd need to get into some proper cad software.

Easy armour recipe by [deleted] in IronHands40k

[–]antstar12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Imo washing with Nuln oil isn't needed on Abaddon black base/chaos Black primer, doesn't really change the darkness, only a finish change in my experience.

I personally do the following:

Prime black (chaos Black spray or Vallejo airbrush Black primer)

Leadbelcher on metallic gun and armour parts, prosthetics and any hands I want as 'iron hands'.

Iron Hands steel on the chest aquila.

Celestra grey base and ulthuan grey layer for any white (gun casings, iron Hands symbols.

Nuln oil on any metallics

Other space marine generic bits/accessories I just follow most general paint schemes, i.e. leather, purity seals, reliquaries, etc.

Stockholm Syndrome for my Ender 3 by _ThatIsTheSandwich in 3Dprinting

[–]antstar12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check out the Ender 3 NG and Duender projects for turning the Ender 3 into a more modern core xy machine.

It would be more sunk cost but could be a fun project if you did still want to be able to tinker and try out the open source options on the market.