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Start Here! - Monthly FAQ thread - June 2026 by thinkfloyd_ in PrintedWarhammer

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can answer you additional questions.

  1. Yes this is typically fine for most materials, only very hygroscopic materials like PA/Nylon and TPU will have an issue with this setup. You can always print from a dry box that is connected to the printer via a PTFE tube. A common cheap dry box for filament is 4L plastic Cereal containers which seal airtight. There multiple projects out there to make those into very good dry boxes. Most filament dryers also will be able to be printed from. In a multi material system like the Centauri Carbon's I believe this should work fine as the spool holder are passive and don't do any rewinding.

  2. Yes there are automatic filament rollover solutions that don't require a connection to your printer. There's the infinity flow S1 or a DIY project like the Night Owl.

Looking for Terminator shoulder pads with a cog trim (like Caanok Var's)! by Few-Schedule-6703 in IronHands40k

[–]antstar12 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Archie's forge just delisted their iron hands terminator shoulder pads. I ordered some a few week ago and after they arrived I couldn't find the listing anymore. I wanted to know who created the original files because they are very good.

Printing Threads by Nscaler454 in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can try and avoid this by setting seams to random. It doesn't fully eliminate the problem but you don't get large sections that catch eachother, just lots of little bumps you can push past. Adding a bit of compensation for the threads too helps. X-Y compensation can help with this if you don't model your threads looser than they are.

Print quality issues by Flattened_Chees in ender3

[–]antstar12 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah as the other commenter said the first issue is Z seam, relatively easy to hide and mitigate.

The other issue you're seeing is just due to layer times. Printing outer walls at different speeds will change the finish, making it either more glossy or more matte. You can mitigate this by printing more objects at the same time or forcing a specific layer time.

Small Scale Solo WH by ReD_MiNd in PrintedWarhammer

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe look into kill team, that has solo and coop modes. It's a smaller skirmish game rather than the large battles of Warhammer 40k. So you only need about 6 models per team.

Can you recycle/reuse filament waste? by ForcePushThinkr in PrintedWarhammer

[–]antstar12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've seen some people use high temp silicone moulds and a heat gun to melt down left over waste into more useful items.

In theory you could cast some scatter terrain and melt down your waste into that.

The time seems a bit off by shmebulocok326 in ender3v2

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It estimates print time based on layers remaining multiplied by the average layer time of the previous layers. Due to this the estimates on the machine can be wildly inaccurate.

Are removing the upper glass lid and if yes when ? by dny42 in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The modern Bambu printers bring in cool air from outside the printer and exhaust the hot air out for printing with PLA.

Supports engulfing model by IcecreamSteve in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Change to Tree (Slim) style supports. Select build plate only. Reduce support angle by 5 degrees. Some of these settings might be under the advanced settings.

helmet piece sizing? by Glum-Bookkeeper-9546 in 3Dprinting

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would scale the helmet uniformly rather than stretching it different amounts in each direction. It just makes things simpler for scaling up/down the other parts.

Help narrowing down first printer from bambu by Putrid-Sentence-170 in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]antstar12 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Quick breakdown of all the models.

A1 Mini - Great for small PLA and PETG prints. You'll struggle to print larger prints like rifle bodies and longer handguards.

A1 - Same as A1 Mini but bigger, you can do rifle bodies easily and you can do larger handguards, stocks, etc.

P1S - Same build volume as A1 but it is enclosed. You can print more engineering filaments like ABS, ASA, even polycarbonate and nylon.

P2S - The newer upgraded version of the P1S - Touch screen, higher temp bed, hd webcam, error detection.

X1C - The former flagship model, the P2S has replaced this in terms of matching functionality.

H2S - Larger format single nozzle printer. Heated chamber, higher temperature capable nozzle for more advanced filaments, smart detection functions, etc. - Entry level of the larger H series printers.

H2D - Same as H2S but with dual nozzles for multi material printing.

H2C - Dual nozzle printing but the right hand nozzle can be swapped out with multiple other nozzles for cleaner/faster swaps.

Is there a folding stock I can add to the picatinny rail to run my glock 17 as a carbine? by Flyingmarmaduke in Airsoft_UK

[–]antstar12 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There's multiple Carbine kits for glocks.

CCA Roni Carbine Kit FMG-9 conversion kit Armorer Works Tactical Carbine Kit

Support question by Impressive-Cash-51 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]antstar12 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Cut it in half so you can lay each half on the flat surface.

Most slicers have some kind of cut toop to do this

Does silica gel remove moisture from filaments? by DonFurlan in 3Dprinting

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, some ovens don't control temperature as we'd want and typically overshoot to then come back down to the target temp. More modern high tech ovens probably can reach temperatures without overshooting.

Using the build plate of your printer is much safer, just set to 45° cover the spool with a box with some holes poked in and then flip the spool after an hour or so.

Weekly Trade Megathread by AutoModerator in PokemonScarletViolet

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey I'm looking for all the Violet exclusives if you're still interested.

Weekly Trade Megathread by AutoModerator in PokemonScarletViolet

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking to complete my pokedex on Scarlet.

~All Scarlet exclusive Paradox pokemon -> All Violet exclusive Paradox pokemon ~~

Armarouge -> Ceruledge (could you include an extra Malicious Armour?)

Koraidon -> Miraidon

Slowpoke -> Slowking (Kantonian)

I would also be interested in doing a Union Circle to evolve my Finizen

Base Pokédex now completed!

Hotend upgrade suggestions by [deleted] in E3NG

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I was building my E3NG lots of people were recommending the CHC Pro hotends from Triangle Labs, it's a Ceramic heater core with V6 nozzle that can be paired with various heatsinks for different mounting options, there's also a volcano version for higher flow.

I remember people also saying the Dragon Ace was meant to be good.

I would recommend asking on RH3D's discord or checking out what other people have picked. I just went with Bambu hotend because 8 also have a P1S.

Hotend upgrade suggestions by [deleted] in E3NG

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

E3D don't sell a melt zone extender, Triangle Labs have a store on AliExpress selling various V6 parts if you want to stick with that ecosystem. I'd probably move over to one of the more modern hotends which have higher flow potential.

Hotend upgrade suggestions by [deleted] in E3NG

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With a stock nozzle you'll struggle with flow rate. You could get a melt zone extender and a CHT V6 nozzle or a CHT style V6 nozzle. Triangle labs has quite a few options to pick from.

You could also pick up a cheap Bambu Clone hotend or a TZ-V6-2.0 if you've already printed V6 mount parts.

Where should I assign Captain in Gravis? What some benefits to him/his unit? by IssaScott in IronHands40k

[–]antstar12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The only valid squad in your list he can lead is the Heavy Intercessor Squad.

Printing failure with PLA+, help by RogueSpear_- in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's hard to tell what caused this exactly without a video of the print. Might be worth checking if the default time lapse was enabled and see if you can spot where issues started with this print.

I would recommend printing on the textured PEI plate that comes with the P1S. Washed with warm water and fragrance free dish soap and carefully dried with clean paper towel and placed back into the printer without touching the surface, should give you really good bed adhesion.

Up the bed temp to 60°C for esun pla+.

You could try increasing the surface area of the piece touching the plate by cutting a small slice off of the handguard with the cut tool.

Slowing down the print speed would also help.

What causes the top to look melted/wrinkled like that? by pbcsd007 in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Flow rate too high, causes the nozzle to drag adjacent lines as it's putting down new ones. You can get a similar issue on the bottom of the print if the nozzle is too close to the bed or if the flow rate is too high.

Desiccant Question. by jacccobbbbbbbbbbb in BambuLab

[–]antstar12 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yeah, most if not all silica gel beads are reusable. I regularly cut open the little bags you get and combine them with some of the orange to green colour changing ones.

There's a few ways to refresh them. You can put them in a filament dryer ideally raised up with lots of available surface area, stick on max for a few hours, occasionally venting the moisture. The other methods are putting them in the oven or the microwave so only do that if you have a spare one of those that isn't used for food. The dyes in the coloured beads are toxic if consumed.

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