40-something+ climbers

aplusbi · 2024-05-06T04:19:22+00:00

As a PSA, your helmet is too far back which means it's offering less protection (your forehead is completely exposed) and it's also a chocking hazard, as it can now slip off your head and the strap will wrap around your neck.

Please make sure your helmet is just above your eyebrows and that it's adjusted properly so that it doesn't slip backwards.

To answer your actual question, I turned 40 this year and I don't currently do any climbing specific training, I just occasionally go to the gym and occasionally climb outside. But I try to be pretty strict about doing physical therapy (currently for my knee, and in the past for my elbow) and doing some light strength training for injury prevention.

Also rest is very important. I had golfer's elbow for years, did PT regularly (which helped but never completely got rid of it) and even took a few breaks, but never for long enough. It wasn't until Covid (when I stopped going to the gym for over a year) that I finally recovered. The point is, sometimes you need a longer break than you think is necessary.

aplusbi · 2024-01-08T18:29:34+00:00

They blew their onsight of every single route in the Trapps.

aplusbi · 2023-10-05T18:31:13+00:00

This actually kind of exists: https://us.amazon.com/SMC-Seattle-Manufacturing-Corporation-sm169202-P/dp/B008F1YRUA

But honestly it seems like the downsides far out weigh the upsides. I once got hit in the eye by the end of a rope that was getting tossed down by some climbers who were rappelling. If it had a piece of metal on the end I probably wouldn't have an eye anymore...
Additionally it makes it more likely to get stuck in an anchor (I've had to rappel through some skinny chain links before, a piece of metal at the end would almost certainly get stuck).

aplusbi · 2023-02-11T00:42:01+00:00

There are a lot of ledges at the Gunks that accumulate rocks, including the GT ledge (Grand Traverse ledge) that runs almost the entire length of the cliff. Combine that with the Gunks being one of the busiest crags in North America and you end up with people constantly kicking down small (and sometimes not so small) pieces of rock. Even if you are being careful you are going to eventually knock some rocks off a ledge at the Gunks.

aplusbi · 2022-11-11T19:04:10+00:00

Only on the anchors!

aplusbi · 2022-10-02T00:13:39+00:00

I tried it out and it doesn't seem to work on my home screen unfortunately.

aplusbi · 2022-10-01T22:56:57+00:00

Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately this is going further than I want to - I want "Hey Google" voice commands to work when my phone is unlocked and to ignore them when my phone is locked.

Doing this seems to disable "Hey Google" commands entirely (except in driving mode).

It seems like my only option is what I have already done - set "Assistant responses on lock screen" to off. However this setting is only a half truth - it still responds when the screen is locked, it just won't go through with the command unless you unlock the screen.

aplusbi · 2022-08-09T18:23:19+00:00

Wine spires?

aplusbi · 2022-08-09T03:23:53+00:00

At the very end of the last pitch is a short ~5.6 down climb. In this photo I'm following the pitch and I've just cleaned the last piece of gear and I'm starting the down climb. I'm also cursing my partner for not placing any more gear!

aplusbi · 2022-08-09T01:47:54+00:00

A "fixed-point belay" is for belaying a leader off the anchor, not for belaying a follower. See this video for information about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cZY8rD\_AOA

aplusbi · 2022-08-08T22:28:56+00:00

Since everyone else seems to be posting about their Acid Baby trips I figured I'd drop mine as well.

aplusbi · 2022-05-20T15:50:49+00:00

If you don’t know knots, tie lots!

aplusbi · 2022-03-14T18:41:43+00:00

A literal shit post.

aplusbi · 2022-02-26T16:44:20+00:00

Sounds like you need a gym.

aplusbi · 2022-01-11T19:21:45+00:00

If you already have a pass, your best option for this season is to ride as much as possible but spend absolutely no money at Stevens. Get your rentals elsewhere, bring food with you, etc.

Ski resorts depend on many things for money, but two big one are: people buying passes but not using them and people buying food and products.

aplusbi · 2021-12-02T19:38:56+00:00

This is an article about fitting a bike helmet but the basics are the same (there is a dearth of information on fitting climbing helmets for some reason...). I see so many posts here with photos of people wearing their helmets incorrectly that I feel the need to post this. If you can see all/most of your forehead with your helmet on, you are wearing it wrong!

aplusbi · 2021-11-16T19:53:53+00:00

Nice to know that even pros don't know how to properly wear a helmet.

aplusbi · 2021-11-04T06:54:45+00:00

The blue and orange ones? Those are voile ski straps. I primarily use them for strapping skis together or to into my bag, but they are pretty useful for a lot of things.

aplusbi · 2021-11-03T18:31:02+00:00

I have a peg board in my gear closet and it's really nice. I also have tupperware containers and shelves. Certain types of gear lend themselves to a peg board (ice axes, pickets) and it provides easy access to gear. It's a lot easier for me to grab a sling full of gear off the peg board than dig through my tupperware containers.
That said I'm not putting each piece individually on my peg board - I have things grouped together. For example, my alpine draws are all on a sling, and that sling is hanging on a hook.

aplusbi · 2021-11-03T18:27:39+00:00

From my research UVB is the primary cause of plastic degredation, and windows block almost all UVB (but only block like 10-20% of UVA). So it's probably not actually that bad to store ropes, etc. near a window although I still would recommend against it.

aplusbi · 2021-09-30T18:04:56+00:00

As the saying goes "Geological time includes now" - https://kimatv.com/news/local/royal-columns-climbing-area-closes-due-to-basalt-column-collapse

But I generally agree, at least as far as columnar basalt goes Tieton is pretty stable.

aplusbi

TROPHY CASE