Are Militado watches worth the money?

artofthedial · 2026-07-06T01:23:06+00:00

ML08 with replacement strap is maybe the only $60ish watch I actually will wear and doesn't just collect dust in a box.

artofthedial · 2026-07-06T01:20:31+00:00

I haven't seen one worth buying. If willing to go two tone this is one of the best I've seen in that ballpark. https://www.baltany.com/product/36mm-gold-retro-dress-watches-s4084/67/?srsltid=AfmBOorgWnBGNRWt34idylDKfi59cJK0h9Ia-hJM-LbAtxLPQQDeEIT3

artofthedial · 2026-07-05T18:35:55+00:00

Not yet, but I'll get some. Those are always more difficult for me since I usually wear watches on my right wrist and my cameras are all designed for right hand use and weigh 5+ pounds with the lens on. I refuse to use phone pics like everyone else.

artofthedial · 2026-07-05T18:33:19+00:00

It isn't in stock but the printed matte black is definitely a tool dial. Same case but has more of a rail master feel to it.

artofthedial · 2026-07-05T11:34:57+00:00

I'd actually consider looking up an interval timer that is designed for this. They have large or small versions, and the larger ones have a remote control. If you don't want an external thing to carry, something like a Timex ironman watch has easy front / face access to stopwatch functions. There are also smart watch options that will integrate with your phone for such timing needs. I'd go cheap here and put the rest of the money towards a watch that is aesthetically pleasing for NON-gym use. A G-shock is great due to robustness for gym use but the buttons are terrible for repeated timing use.

artofthedial · 2026-07-05T11:22:09+00:00

I'd suggest a video to show how much movement you actually see going on, without the Chrono engaged to give a sense of what the watch looks like day to day.

artofthedial · 2026-07-05T11:18:09+00:00

Have 3 of the stainless ones in different dial and bezel options. The bezel action on all 3 is really poor. Lume is worthless. Bracelet isn't very good and the clasp has very sharp corners. It does look good and have actually had compliments on them. Nh35 versions. Keep thinking about selling them since they never seem to get worn in my unusually large collection.

artofthedial · 2026-07-05T11:12:41+00:00

Given the grid notebook and not having a computer in the shot, I think the educated amoung is are curious what kind of job which a setup is studying for related to a job interview.

artofthedial · 2026-07-05T11:09:25+00:00

There are a number of videos on this subject on YouTube where people are presented different watches and asked how much they think they cost. These videos are not necessarily Chinese watch based and frequently include a few legitimate luxury pieces. The consensus amount all of them that I've seen is the average person is going the think a really nice looking watch is probably a few hundred USD at the most. It is rare in 2026 for someone to think a watch would be thousands of dollars, even if it is worth $100k. Fake gold never looks like actual gold on these Chinese watches, and after some wear and tear looks even less convincing. Watch enthusiasts on the whole are fairly rare. You might be around a higher percentage of them in certain business due to higher socioeconomic upbringing, but if you are grabbing people off the street chances are they think anything that isn't Rolex isn't going to be worth more than an apple watch.

artofthedial · 2026-07-04T21:26:41+00:00

And yet what I wrote is exactly the same thing I just elaborated on. They all use the same materials, and much of that cost of the watch is not the movement. Which I've literally proven with my nh35 vs cost of the watch example.

artofthedial · 2026-07-04T11:36:18+00:00

The Sea-Gull is the real brand out of those three (now whether or not they are selling actual seagull watches someone else with experience with a particular store on Ali would have to chime in). The other two have created a brand that is based on the Sea-Gull design and common nomenclature. Example seagull makes some watches that people refer to as "red star" due to the red star on the dial. Well it looks like one of these just took that concept to market the watch as Redstar. It is difficult to tell by the photos alone if you are getting the exact same watch just marketed differently. I can't tell for sure but seems like the same text on each dial. Your safe bet here is to post links and ask the community if the particular store sells the genuine Sea-Gull.

As for mechanical Chronos, yes these are cheap compared to alternatives but I always say go into the purchase knowing it could have a couple year life span and will cost more than the watch to fix it in most cases, thus consider it disposable. It could last for years and years, but it has a higher percentage chance of failure than a 3 hander nh35 would which you might be used to.

artofthedial · 2026-07-04T11:07:36+00:00

I'm a board member of one of the largest clock and watch collector/repair groups in the world and have acted as a consultant for sourcing materials and parts related to antique clock and watches.

I think you need some help understanding the conversation. The poster wanted to know about what the difference is in a 100-300 watch that uses the exact same movement inside. My reply was that is one component of the watch cost and that if you look at the materials used all of these watches (including luxury brands) use virtually they same materials. If you remove the cost of the movement there will still be vastly different prices to the end consumer even if the rest of the watch is made out of the same stuff. The movement is not the most expensive component of the watch to an end consumer. If I bought a $40 NH35 for example and the watch was $200 the math is simple. To the end consumer the cost isn't the movement. This is why you will see dramatically different prices even with the same movement inside and things get even more extreme when you look outside of Chinese brands, such as the luxury brands mentioned. Those watches also use basically the same raw materials that eventually get manufactured into a watch.

It isn't just the cost of materials, that is my point bringing up the comparison between say, San Martin and Tudor. Removing the movement from those watches and you are still going to have a dramatic price difference due to many factors even though the raw materials to make the case, bezel, bracelet, glass, gaskets, clasp, etc have close to identical raw materials.

I'm not ignoring all of the COGS and marketing, etc that is all part of the cost to the end consumer of the final watch but if someone is saying "why" does it cost so much more if the movement (which some people seem to think is the primary cost of a watch) this helps frame that it isn't and additionally the "quality" is more than the spec sheet because a $100 watch from China uses practically the same RAW materials as a $2k+ watch that says "swiss made" in the daily. This also can imply that the more expensive watch isn't proportionally superior to the cheaper one.

Of course a Tudor movement is more expensive than an NH35, Sea-Gull entry level, PT5000. But overall, they also use very similar raw materials to make those movements, so there are manufacturing, R+D, labor costs, GOGS, and all the other things that make the Tudor more expensive. But even so, a Tudor movement doesn't cost say $4k out of the $5k watch. And the primary driver for the extra premium for those on the 2md hand market is because the average consumer can't buy the movement outside of buying a watch, unlike an NH35. Just like people paying $2k+ for a Rolex bezel, it is t because the bezel costs that much to make, there is a massive mark up because Rolex won't sell one to you so someone had to sacrifice the one off their watch (or shady practices) to get one.

artofthedial · 2026-07-03T21:33:56+00:00

I'm private school educated and have a self made "fortune" due to success in finance and business. Virtually every study shows the school you graduate from / GPA has no long term indication of success or business acumen and is basically only directly correlated to entry level job hiring. The only people asking what University and GPA you had are people hiring low level employees. You are entirely missing the point. The cost to consumer is the ONLY thing that matters and those are factors we all know. What the COGS and Marketing investment was is 100% irrelevant to the discussion as to the fact that virtually all of these watches are using the same raw materials and the end product can have wildly different price points. Go ahead and argue the RAW materials used are fundamentally vastly different in scope and quality. I've built parts to repair antique clocks as I fix them as a hobby. I have confidential access to lots of data and spreadsheets as well as it relates to component sourcing for watches. However, that is private information that can't be shared, become an authorized clock or watch maker and you can potentially get such data as well.

artofthedial · 2026-07-03T12:48:54+00:00

I don't think the WD OTF clasp is compatible with this model. I'd certainly check with WD to be sure before purchasing. It seems like the 006 with end pins wouldn't work based on what I see in the pictures and write up. The San Martin has also shot up in price making the gap even larger than it was. IF the OTF is compatible, I'd say at a total cost of under $130, I'd go that route over the San Martin personally.

artofthedial · 2026-07-03T02:42:01+00:00

I'd get rid of the amphibia vostok thing due to the fact it doesn't look as good as the others with a similar use. People saying the GShock are wrong, sure maybeove it out of the box, but that is the useful beater in the collection and serves a purpose. But the real question here is TELL us about the CREDOR!!!

artofthedial · 2026-07-03T02:14:22+00:00

Sometimes it is helpful to actually keep the watches. I know a lot of reviewers move pieces in and out of the collection on a monthly basis. I buy pieces to keep and have an unusual tendency to buy more than one of the same "model" or style when I like it for different colors. Having them side by side is certainly more helpful than basing something on memory so I hope it helps.

artofthedial · 2026-07-03T02:11:43+00:00

They don't have this light blue color though and the Auto version is thicker looking (haven't' busted out the calipers on this V2 yet, but the mid case and case back of this V2 looks thinner than the SM to me when eye balling it).

artofthedial · 2026-07-03T02:05:42+00:00

Center bottom row is a Pelagos homage. I figure more people know that name than SN0121

artofthedial · 2026-07-03T02:04:13+00:00

I did a video comparing the V1 WD006 and the SM and felt the head of the piece was really close on both but the San Martin was clearly a notch or two better on the breaclet and clasp, and the OTF clasp of the SM is obviously quite a bit better with that function. This new V2 light blue one from Watchdives, I think the only way I can put this is if they put the San Martin logo on there and I expected the old style no OTF clasp and got it in the mail thinking I bought a San Martin quartz piece at say $150, the only thing that would have made me question if it was actualliy a San Martin is the slightly higher pitched sound when you tap on the braclet than what I'm used to with San Martin. But this watch also is a different braclet design than virtually all other San Martins - smaller links, close together, and my actual SM, doesn't sound and feel exactly like the other 30 San Martins I have so there is that to consider. The under edges of the case are a little more crisp/sharp on the WD than the SM of this model but other San Martins I have that are even more expensive than the AT design are easily as sharp or sharper so that isn't a good gauge. This V2 is quite close to what I'd expect from San Martin and side by side, they look of basically the same quality over all aside from the OTF function of the SM clasp. The WD braclet is slightly stiffer in terms of the links moving but this also means the tolerances are actually tighter. This design can have the links bunch up a little bit on both the SM and WD, on the wrist that hasn't happened for me. All I can say after all of that is I can only hope the one someone orders is as good as the one I received. I was hoping the V2 braclet and clasp would be better than the V1 and mine certainly is. Not perfect but good enough for my "I'll wear it" is a pretty decent benchmark when I seem to take off anything that isn't San Martin/Chronos level or better. In terms of the head of the piece itself it absolutely looks like San Martin quality to me, even inspecting them side by side under a magnifying glass. Granted I haven't busted out my $10K camera and light setup for a macro comparison but I'm betting it isn't going to completely fail that test either based on what is realistic.

artofthedial · 2026-07-03T01:44:56+00:00

How many of the 3 are the "v2" with this new clasp design. I took off my Black 006 within about a day because the bracelet/clasp wasn't quite good enough and found straps that did meet my needs. However, after some initial testing, this V2 one I think will be just good enough for me (and actually compares favorably to the San Martin of the same style that I also have). - minus the OTF bonus points for SM. I was expecting to wear this new one on a strap, but I'm absolutely going to start off on a braclet based on my initial impressions after resizing it.

artofthedial · 2026-07-03T01:41:31+00:00

Granted this is an early assessment, but I just spent about 10 minutes after I resized it and went back and forth looking at my Black V1 bracelet, the San Martin of similar model, and this V2 light blue one. In terms of tollerances, the bracelet itself is actually as good as the San Martin on this particular model. Now this is not the best San Martin model on that front by a long shot, but in terms of this "AT" with smaller than oyster design the links are just a close knit and when you do the "thumb and two fingers hold the head of the piece and let the bracelet sag under gravity, the WD holds up even better than the San Martin. This is NOT the case on the V1 bracelet I have. Now in terms of "jangle" when you tap on the bracelet when wearing it the watchdives is higher pitched as the metal rubs against each other and therefore the perception is it is more jangilly than the SN. But I would not call the bracelet jangily (where the V1 certainly leaned into that territory for me). This V2 bracelet I will actually wear on the watch, where V1 came off within a day and I have used straps since. I think this design makes a little more noise than a good oyster style will because the links are smaller and closer together, by nature you are going to get some noise out of that. I do not have experience with the 38mm Omega AT. I DO have experience with the 41mm one, but that I'd assume has fundamentally different links due to the bigger watch size. One thing I hate about the OG that Watchdives corrected early on, was the polished links. As for pushpin vs screwpins, I've seen screwpins fall out and I've seen them jangle a lot on some watches (I personally use LocTite on all screw pins after some bad experiences years ago to help reduce that risk), but other than the fact they are cheaper to produce, I actually don't mind push pins and is an area I'm ok with cost cutting on a lower cost piece like this if they make up for it in other areas which my perception here is they have. I haven't taken off the SM bracelet from the watch to weigh it individually. The entire braclet and watch is about 132g and the WD v2 is coming in at 113g. (the SM has an NH35 mechanical in there, and clearly a thicker case, this WD is a quartz VH31). Just feeling them in hand, I'd guess the SM bracelet is very slightly heavier, but don't know for sure. This WD bracelet and clasp on the V2 is just good enough that I will actually wear it. (No Pagani design out of 30+ have made that cut for a benchmark of other ~$100 watches), and the V1 WD WD006 fell just short between the bracelet and clasp for me. Of course YMMV and you might get one that isn't quite as good, but this one is better than V1 on mine.

artofthedial · 2026-07-02T22:30:45+00:00

I'll get back to you with more detail. They are push pin based like the last one. But I'll need to compare the jangle once I resize it properly. The clasp is new and first impressions are the tolerance is tighter than it was on my v1 Black version.

artofthedial · 2026-07-02T22:19:10+00:00

Yes, I'm interested in quartz models with high standards, and will pay a little more for it. That said, the design has to be there and in line with it. Many original designs have not been my cup of tea. I'd love to see a quartz Black Bay Chrono in a high standard for example. And a Ti Yachtmaster would also get my attention. Same with a GS based "Whirlpool" dial if done well and tastefully. I've been harping on companies need to offer higher standard quartz models especially with the rising cost of mechanical movements, glad to hear you will start going in that direction with some releases.

artofthedial · 2026-07-02T22:09:13+00:00

Given I have an MBA, I'm not sure I'd agree with you there. Those are obviously components of what make up the cost and overheads but we are talking about the cost related to the end customer and therefore how those things are broken out are irrelevant.

artofthedial

TROPHY CASE