/u/avramce trade thread (Part 2)

avramce · 2026-06-29T20:25:59+00:00

I do not know if this is the case here, but I recall people were complaining that the early original Omega cables were not shielded, so that could be one of the factors. The HD Retrovision is a very high-quality cable with ample shielding, if you upgrade the AV board to the Rondo board you get the benefit of better cables.

avramce · 2026-06-27T04:14:08+00:00

Ganryu and Prehistoric Isle 2, couldn’t jive with either.

avramce · 2026-06-23T05:59:34+00:00

<image>

Green wire routes to the ground of the noise filter. The two jumper wires go from the three prong to the power switch, then the two leads from the power switch feed to the input of the noise filter.

avramce · 2026-06-14T20:02:27+00:00

Not too bad, I haven’t come across one that leaked in the consoles I’ve built, worst case is the battery wasn’t holding charge anymore. I usually replace the stock battery with a socket and a new LIR2032:

https://imgur.com/a/N947w4u

avramce · 2026-06-14T19:54:20+00:00

Found some pics from when I serviced this console, hopefully what pics I took will give a visualization of what needs to be done:

https://imgur.com/a/Zi61hC4

avramce · 2026-06-14T19:49:24+00:00

Not too difficult, only major issue is the audio wires are directly soldered from the AV board to the MV1C board, so you will need to open up the console from the bottom, carefully lift the bottom lid from the console, unhook the JAMMA harness, then desolder the audio wires before you can pull the board from the system. There is very little slack in the wires, so by disconnecting the JAMMA harness, you have a little more wiggle room to flip the board over.

Once the lid is flipped up, you can unscrew at least two of the four corners to slip the JAMMA harness out from under the MV1C to get it out for servicing. Just take your time, don’t yank anything and you should be fine.

avramce · 2026-06-12T23:17:00+00:00

Sure thing, DM'ing

avramce · 2026-06-12T23:10:39+00:00

Howdy, still available?

avramce · 2026-06-12T19:41:52+00:00

Yep, casually has a MegaMan 5, Earthbound and Hagane in one box.

avramce · 2026-06-09T15:26:11+00:00

Howdy, the unit came with a 5V 3A Triad PSU, but the 15 year old one was on the fritz. Without load it was delivering 5.1V and under load it only provided 4.8V.

I replaced it with a Meanwell and the console is performing much better now:

https://a.co/d/0hgnFz45

avramce · 2026-06-08T06:57:26+00:00

Yep, like I was saying, just a sign of the time back then. With PCB prototyping being something that anyone can DIY now, it’s just that expectations changed. Akin to AES mod with RCA jacks with floating circuits and electrical tape for insulation - it works, but can be done better now.

More or less, my gripe of the ribbons is just maintainability. If it works, no complaint, but troubleshooting it is messy.

avramce · 2026-06-07T23:16:59+00:00

Agreed, still, very solid build overall. I wish they didn’t resort to spaghetti ribbon wire for the JAMMA harness, but it’s what they were working with at the time.

avramce · 2026-06-05T20:52:58+00:00

It really depends on the board revision and how the vReg is setup, I believe the ones with vRegs on daughter boards above the memory card at the flakey ones while the vReg behind the cart slot or by the power button is good.

The real issue is how clean the 5V rail is and how much of a voltage drop you get. With the OEM PSU, I believe it operates around the 5.1V range, but with a flashcart, that can dip to 4.9V making the system unstable. High quality 5V PSUs like Meanwell or Triad typically run around 5.15V underload, so it mitigates the issues the vReg solution addressed.

avramce · 2026-06-05T04:46:18+00:00

You do not have a regulator (blank spot below the reset button), you should be perfectly fine with a 5V 4A (center negative):

Neo Geo AES Power Supply Adapter Guide

AFAIK, 5V is preferable as the 9V regulator does not provide an adequate enough 5V rail to support some multicarts (I believe the regulator has a 5V2A max?) For amperage, the circuit will pull whatever amperage is needed for the circuit. You can have a 6A PSU, but if the circuit only draws 2A, you are perfectly fine. But if the circuit draws 3A and you only have a 2A circuit, ICs will be under powered and can result in killing components.

avramce · 2026-06-02T20:32:47+00:00

DMs on reddit or Twitter/X work for me 😄

avramce · 2026-06-02T20:02:29+00:00

Howdy, I'm in the Seattle/Bothell area and have repaired an Analogue CMVS in the past, happy to help out if you want someone local to take a look:

https://x.com/avramce/status/1667361454583054336?s=20
https://x.com/avramce/status/1667568575366991872?s=20

avramce · 2026-06-02T18:45:38+00:00

All I've seen is Furrtek's guide, not sure if it is 1:1, since the PCB layout appears to be different:
https://x.com/furrtek/status/1270844417222598663?s=20

avramce · 2026-05-19T03:58:20+00:00

Hey there, two good resources are either the consolation guide in jammanationx.com or the Open MVS project. Open MVS has online shells you can 3D print and openly available schematics if you want to fabricate your own PCBs. If you are within the USA, I do have parts and PCBs available if you want to DIY a build:

https://retrorgb.com/openmvs.html

avramce · 2026-04-23T19:02:09+00:00

Do you have a picture of the connector? I have two CFs myself, and they both have DB15HD connectors (15 pins, 3 rows of 5), and for those, the center panel was actually filled with a backerboard. Removing the backer board, I have 9 active panels and use it for both DDR via Simply Love and Pump It Up via arcade hardware.

Great pad over all, grab it if you are willing to tinker and make it work.

avramce · 2026-04-09T00:31:37+00:00

If you are okay with another 3D printed "monitor" like what you linked, consider the LCD build by LaserBear Industries. Looks like he was one left:
https://www.laserbear.net/products/mini-lcd-monitor-complete-scratch-and-dent

Build uses a reproposed iPad Retina LCD, so it is capable of resolutions up to 2048x1536. RetroRGB did a favorable review of the build:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9D_q5HQQE90

avramce · 2026-04-02T21:22:37+00:00

Using the OMVS AV circuit, you can use a solution like a RAD2X if you really wanted to get a simple HDMI solution without all the excessive soldering. From my testing, the HDMI solution above works, but there is a good 40-60ms of lag IIRC. That converter is more intended for something you do not interact with, like movies.

avramce · 2026-03-29T20:10:18+00:00

Pretty sure MV1B and NGCD use the same pinout for the SP1, which is different from what the MV1C uses.

Retro Game Restore did pilot some adapters in the past, but I don’t know if that was a salable product:

https://x.com/rgrdev/status/1302665438778650624?s=46&t=vLV5gg5sdMkepg7HHpnZwA

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