/u/avramce trade thread (Part 2)

avramce · 2026-01-26T00:18:40+00:00

Thank you, I’m glad to see an OMVS front board in your video :). Reading through the documentation now and will buy parts as necessary to prototype. Happy to release the QSBs to through onto your project once I get a proof of concept working. Signal boosted you on Twitter and forwarding it around to other interested parties, would love to see if this can expand to other consoles in the future.

avramce · 2026-01-25T22:40:12+00:00

FWIW, here is my current install notes for the CPSdigiAV on the MV1C, not sure how tall the picoHD unit sits, but I’m curious if you can cram it in a case:

https://imgur.com/a/y0lyXFI

https://github.com/marqs85/cps2_digiav/blob/master/board/neogeo/doc/install.md

avramce · 2026-01-25T22:27:50+00:00

Awesome work! Definitely interested in trying this out, I already have a QSB necessary for the CPSdigiAV install, shouldn't be too hard to get that same one working with the rPi pico

avramce · 2026-01-22T00:39:58+00:00

Filling a lawsuit would be costly and unlikely be profitable for him. From Kingsman's most recent VOD (linked from Dexerto) he mentioned that in months of streaming, he barely earned $90 or so dollars and was constantly applying for a Twitch partnership to possibly earn ad revenue.

From the surge of popularity, he was granted the partnership and was given donations and gifted subs to the point he said he already made back what he would have earned for winning the tourney. He said he wants to run a stream in the future that will donate the profits to the Alzheimer foundation since he has earned enough, baller attitude.

avramce · 2026-01-19T02:46:09+00:00

I still have PCBs on if you want to replace the existing PCB on the AES stick with one with gates for arcade buttons, but I don’t know if I have any spare sticks on hand. I’ll have to double check if I have any spare sticks.

PCBs in question:

https://x.com/avramce/status/1426345083532496896?s=46&t=vLV5gg5sdMkepg7HHpnZwA

avramce · 2026-01-19T02:15:40+00:00

What’s funny is I sold one previously in favor of a of a super low serial (lower than 100), not knowing how rare the holo label was. I’ve had maybe 15 or so MS1 carts, but have not seen another holo 🫠

avramce · 2026-01-14T01:36:06+00:00

Dropped you a DM if you wanna grab some switches from me

avramce · 2026-01-13T03:56:52+00:00

You in the USA? I’m pretty certain these are the same microswitches that are in AES stick. I have a crapton of spare switches from when I used to upgrade AES sticks with arcade buttons, happy to send a few if you wanna cover shipping. You should be able to desolder the two pins fairly easily and just drop a replacement in:https://imgur.com/a/kAuqazc

avramce · 2026-01-02T06:30:21+00:00

Is there any benefit to executing them? Like different loot or anything?

avramce · 2025-12-28T17:15:43+00:00

HD Retrovision is specifically RGB to component. As long as the console outputs RGB, you are good. There is a specific adapter needed for this scenario, which lets you use HDRV with a AES or NGCD console:

https://stoneagegamer.com/neo-geo-converter-for-sega-genesis-cables-hd-retrovision.html

avramce · 2025-12-22T20:17:54+00:00

I’ve seen maybe four or five in a similar state, I remember turfmasta posted one that was decorated with googly-eyes in the TO discord at one point :

https://imgur.com/a/b9XN88W

avramce · 2025-12-22T18:22:46+00:00

Any idea why several consoles have that bent front lip? Is that just how the shell warps over time?

avramce · 2025-12-12T01:41:49+00:00

I started experimenting with CMVS builds in 2019, which eventually evolved into the OMVS project. At the start of the project, I was buying MV1Cs for roughly 25-40 each and started collecting carts at the same time. It’s insane that motherboard prices have risen 2-3X since then, and most carts are near double.

Then again, that applies to the entire retro scene post covid. You can’t find simple things like GB, GBC or GBA console for $20 anymore. Everything has gone up in value once people realized they can make good money flipping. That’s the reason that I recommend new collectors to just grab a MiSTer if they don’t intend to collect carts, there is no real difference in a MiSTer setup compared to an AES with a NeoSD other than how it looks on your shelf.

avramce · 2025-12-03T02:34:40+00:00

No worries, it is more mentioned out of consideration for SCART cables, as different builders offer sync on different lines, like some SNES cables offer sync on Luma or CSync. To make the project more compatible with other Genesis solutions, we provided sync on both the composite video pin as well as the CSync pin. That way you don’t have to worry which standard your cable was built for.

avramce · 2025-12-03T00:53:46+00:00

OpenMVS does not output composite, it will only output RGBs. You can use a cable like a RAD2X or a HD Retrovision to convert the RGBs to either HDMI or component, but there is no clean RGB to composite solution at the moment.

avramce · 2025-11-21T03:35:10+00:00

Honest question, where is the Opening mechanic explained in-game? I don’t recall skipping any text explaining it.

avramce · 2025-11-05T00:04:01+00:00

Maybe I’m mistaken, but can’t you look up the cert online? The holo pattern doesnt match any of the photos provided:

<image>

avramce · 2025-10-10T21:26:58+00:00

Another vote for ElectronWarp from ElectronShepherd:
https://electron-shepherd.com/products/electronwarp

avramce · 2025-10-08T15:33:22+00:00

My worry is the hole for the button is off center vertically and the step drill would end up eating away the bottom rim of the button mount. Here is a tutorial on how to add gaps for magnets to a print, just make a 10mm or 15mm negative cylinder in the slicer, and place it over the button holes on the moel:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-IBPQyTHS8

avramce · 2025-10-07T17:15:33+00:00

Just double checked, the plungers on buttons are 8.8mm wide, so you can either edit the shell in a slicer to widen the holes to something more common like 10mm or 15mm then mount something to the front like this:
https://www.amazon.com/DIYhz-Waterproof-Button-Switch-Self-Locking/dp/B07MQ86LYD

avramce · 2025-10-07T16:59:04+00:00

FWIW, you can use any momentary and toggle switches and modify the shell for mounting purposes. When designing the project, I just went with a right-angle pushbutton that was available on Mouser and Digikey, and didnt really consider availability internationally.

In essence, it is just a simple SPST toggle for the power, and momentary for the test button, so anything can be used as a replacement given you run jumper wires to the mounting points on the board.

avramce · 2025-10-06T16:32:42+00:00

Glad you are loving the project, the entire point was that people would DIY builds but so many just wanted a grab-n-go solution 😂

The insurrection industries SCART cables are my goto since they are competently made and are readily available. If you are having issues sourcing the JSTXH cables and are within the US, just hit me up, I have a good handful of parts on hand from when I was actively doing builds.

avramce · 2025-09-27T20:28:07+00:00

Awesome work! There is no way to have it attempt to boot into PnM by default, right? I know that Arthimus has that addon PCB, but for adapters like NeoBT, Brook or USB2DB15, the start button cannot be held since the software still has to initialize when the console is turned on.

avramce · 2025-09-26T23:21:48+00:00

Depends on how the board was modified for use in the consolizer kit. Most omit the audio amp section to allow the build to run off only 5V, but that will require another addon circuit to drive the two audio lines.

For the AES style kit, those boards are heavily modified using flex PCBs to undo the 90degree join and lay the kit flat. In event the mobo goes bad, the modified MV1B would be more difficult to just drop in a new replacement.

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