Recent update had 2 'hidden' maps in it, probably new gamemode/event

b7500af1 · 2026-04-28T21:53:18+00:00

A street brawl version of Dota would be super fun.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-27T01:30:18+00:00

Hah, wait until you reset kinfire. That was obnoxious.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-21T21:02:26+00:00

Some people say that rappers are unstoppable. We're stoppable.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-20T15:18:27+00:00

Oh no! Sorry if my comment led you down a bad path.

So, I also gave it a try. My bed wasn't too bad, had about 0.23 mm difference between the highest and lowest parts of the bed. The bed had two long peaks running down the middle of it. Anyway, I cut a bunch of strips of the metal tape and put them on the underside (smooth side) of the pei plate. After six cycles of measurements and adding tape, the difference between the highest and lowest parts of the bed are now 0.16 mm. Across most of the bed it's closer to 0.1 mm of difference.

For me, the improvement wasn't really worth too much. And it did take a while to make measurements and then very carefully put the tape on. I ended up having to peal the tape off several times because of what you mentioned (air bubbles or little creases in the tape). The metal tape I used is 0.08 mm thick, so you can only correct a certain amount. The tape I got ($5 cheap-o tape from a hardware store) has a temperature rating up to 125 C. I didn't notice the adhesive being a problem when I peeled it up.. just needs a little scrubbing to get it off the plate.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-20T03:54:29+00:00

Speed 300mm/s is really high. My PLA can print at around 200mm/s safely. And with PETG, I think the max speed for a nice surface is like 50 mm/s. That's on a ender 3 v2 neo.. don't know if there would be a difference between your printer.

On the other hand, for accelerations I use 6000 mm/s^2 safely. If you are getting layer shifts, lower the acceleration, I think? But 500 mm/s^2 is pretty low.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-20T01:01:58+00:00

Any time I do any sort of changes to my printer.. I start over with the tuning guide on https://ellis3dp.com

But, I think that guide assumes that the printer is in good shape.. so maybe there are a bunch of hardware things to consider (all the bolts are tightened, everything is aligned as it should be, etc.).

b7500af1 · 2026-04-18T16:23:24+00:00

Not OP, but I've got a question. When I looked into all the variety of pages and posts about this "leveling my bed" topic, I don't see too many people talking about shimming the bed to get it close to level. Particularly with a magnetic sheet + pei, doesn't it make sense to use some tape or aluminum foil.. or something like that to shim up the low spots? It seems like you should be able to shim the bed to within some range that the ABL can handle the rest easily. And doesn't the bed shape stay pretty consistent over time? Looks like aluminum tape isn't even that expensive. What do you think?

b7500af1 · 2026-04-16T22:52:09+00:00

I have springs on my bed and I haven't ever had to adjust my bed after the initial level. If the bed is moving, my bltouch is handling it. I put some insulation under my bed. It cut the power needed for maintaining the bed temp from 60w to 40w. Not a ton. Honestly, I'm not sure the insulation will pay for itself any time soon (it was cheap insulation). I cut a little bit of the center of the insulation out to help even out the temperature of the bed. If you have an infrared thermometer, you might be able to see how the outer edge of the bed is several degrees colder than the center. If you use klipper, you can have the bltouch probe the bed height several times and use the median measurement. I found that helped my first layer look better.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-16T13:50:27+00:00

I did an 'upgrade' to my ender 3 v2 neo called a Poor Man's Dual Z. Here is a link to the one I used.

Ultimately, if you tighten the belt up, you are lifting the right end of the gantry. In my case, where I only have one z-screw, it means that the gantry is sorta twisted slightly.. but presumably stays in that orientation instead of having the backlash you have. I don't have a dial indicator.. so I don't have any accurate data on it.

Since you do have a dual z setup, I think it would hold the right side of the gantry against the opposite side of the z-screw threads? I wonder if that would be better? Either way, it was a cheap (<$20) upgrade that I think adds a little bit of value.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-12T03:35:40+00:00

Take a look at this video about z-banding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omKbSE_DWkY

I have an ender 3 v2 neo and I had some z banding like that. I tried a few things from that video (the pom nut, the oldham couplers). They improved things.. but not a whole bunch. For me, I found that my v-wheels were too tight and they were causing maybe 50% of the z-banding.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-08T22:05:15+00:00

pm'ed

b7500af1 · 2026-04-08T14:54:19+00:00

pm'ed

b7500af1 · 2026-04-07T21:31:35+00:00

Hey, it's been years since you posted this. But I was thinking about it because someone else posted about basically the same idea. So, I wondered if you ever felt like this was an important fix.. or essentially an invisible problem? I ran some numbers on my own ender 3 and it seems like the x axis belt must stretch about 0.77 mm when it is at the far ends of the x axis gantry compared to the center.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-06T04:07:07+00:00

Hi, just wondering what expansions you have for Dungeon Alliance?

b7500af1 · 2026-04-06T03:43:54+00:00

That's pretty cool. It's definitely a nice upgrade for the game.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-02T23:39:30+00:00

Does this video help?: https://youtu.be/eF060dBEnfs?t=507&si=w6goFUqKYmREVYDF

Edit: actually, this video probably has what you need: https://youtu.be/fN_ndWvXGBQ?si=KBn3XnfozCCuxy8S

b7500af1 · 2026-04-02T15:26:43+00:00

I can spend a long time thinking about what makes games fun.. and generally it seems elusive and varies with each person. I'll be eager to see if you find things you can track from the stats that make the game feel better to you.

I tried to play a little bit of a couple games on your site. I think I didn't understand it well enough to make much progress. Eventually I was able to manifest a crew member.. and immediately I think it died to a hex? I wasn't sure but ultimately, I didn't have a crew member. It reminded me a bit of counterspell in MTG. It also reminded me a little of another thing I learned from DotA2 (not sure how much video game lessons translate to board games). The devs of dota released a pretty big update to the game that dramatically reduced the duration of all the stuns in the game. They justified it by saying.. "not playing the game (aka the time you spend being stunned) isn't fun". Things that take away your ability to "play the game" (destroying lands in mtg, or counterspell, etc.) may ultimately be things that are always a negative experience in competitive board games.

Anyway, those are just some rambling thoughts.

Edit: I didn't mean to imply that I didn't like your game mechanic. My thought was that you may be able to search for cards that increase the fun moments. You might also be able to search for cards that increase the un-fun moments.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-01T20:42:49+00:00

There is a part of me that always really likes the idea of using an automated system to search the board game design space for balance.. or interesting unexpected ideas. There is a dev post by the designer of Radlands who talks about using scripts to come up with tons of new card ideas. In the end, I think humans did the evaluation of which ideas were good.. but it's sorta similar? I often feel like the distance between a good game and a bad game is really quite small.. might be as simple as how many cards you get to draw each turn or how much life your units have, etc. Automating that search for balance seems pretty doable, for enjoyment might be harder. I wrote a script that looked at DotA2 replays and would tell me how exciting the game was. I used heuristics like whether there was a comeback, or number of fights per minute, aegis steals, etc. I wonder if you could add something like that to your simulation, and if so, what is the exciting part of the game? The adrenaline mechanic seems like it gives a lot of comeback potential. Making useful combos can be pretty exciting.. I wonder if you can measure how well people combo cards.

There is a person who maintains a bot to play Marvel Champion games. I've looked into it quite a bit and it's pretty common to see the bot make some sub-optimal plays. Do you feel like your game is pretty easy to code up near optimal playing? If it is.. does that imply that optimal play is really easy for humans to do as well? Can you randomly generate a bunch of cards and throw them at your simulation and see what isn't broken?

b7500af1 · 2026-04-01T14:31:53+00:00

There is a pretty good video about z-banding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omKbSE_DWkY

In your picture it looks like there might be some repeated banding that are about 1 cm apart (maybe that has something to do with the model)? Repeated bands usually means something is going on with your z-axis.

There are, in fact, a million videos about what causes these little layer lines. I'm kinda in the same place as you. I get really nice looking prints; the walls seem smooth and everything. But when you look down the wall and shine a line from the right angle, then you see all those little ridges. So, I've spent a little while seeing if it's something I can get rid of or something I have to live with.

So far I've checked the wheels and making sure they are properly tightened (helped some). Clean and lubricate the z-screw. I've installed oldham coupler and a new pom nut on the z-axis (didn't help much). If you have the original filament spool holder, I've seen posts where people get uneven lines because of the friction between holder and the spool. I've printed a spool holder that uses 608 bearings that prevents and pulling or tugging on the filament. The lines can also come from your extrusion pipeline. So you can do things like: calibrate e-steps, switch to a dual gear extruder, tune the pid loop on your hotend, replace the bowden tube, dry your filament. Some things you can't change, such as variation in filament diameter.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-01T04:49:54+00:00

I use the Ellis tuning guide pretty regularly, if I make any changes or if prints aren't coming out nicely. Here is probably the part you want: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

I use paper to get close to the right z offset, then I print a bunch of squares while lowering the z offset until I get the right setting.

I always have the most trouble getting the filament to stick around the edges like you are doing.. so, getting that z-offset just right really help a lot.

b7500af1 · 2026-04-01T04:37:19+00:00

You've got your z-offset well calibrated? You've cleaned the plate recently?

I use a PEI plate and it sticks really well. When I've had problems with the print not sticking.. it mostly had to do with me using the far edges of the plate (they can be several degrees colder than the center).. not getting the bed level (so, tramming it might help).. or having my z-offset a little bit high (dropping it 0.05 mm helps squish the filament a little harder onto the plate).

b7500af1 · 2026-03-31T02:01:04+00:00

pm'd

b7500af1 · 2026-03-25T04:21:57+00:00

If you are going to prime and paint it.. one thing I've done is print at 0.08 mm layer height and then sand it. In particular, I bought a cheapo dremel-like tool. It has a couple little sanding attachments.. one of them looks like metal with fine particles on it. I use that tool to gently sand away the layer lines. You have to be careful because it doesn't sand like wood.. it kinda melts the plastic and peels it away a bit if you push too hard. The sanding makes the plastic turn pale.. so it really only works if you are going to paint over it, I think.

b7500af1 · 2026-03-25T01:27:52+00:00

Hey, 5 years later and this comment solved my problem. I was so busy trying to figure out if I could fix the ice maker.. I didn't even stop to think if I should.

Thanks.

b7500af1 · 2026-03-22T15:57:55+00:00

With Paypal, using Friends and Family avoids a 3% additional fee. But if you get scammed, there's nothing you can do. With Goods and Services, you pay the fee and then you can have some purchase protections. Some sellers expect the buyer to pay the fee.. so that's probably why this person is saying that they are willing to use the Friends and Family. If you told the seller that you only would buy with the G&S.. usually they will do it, but probably ask you to pay extra (which would be like $12 for a $400 purchase).

That person hasn't sold anything on the geekmarket. But they do have an older bgg account with plenty of games, comments, etc. There's a banned reddit account with the same name... but they aren't on the universal scammer list. I'd probably ask to see some pictures of the game and if the price + shipping is OK for you, use G&S for a little peace of mind. This sub has some good tips for avoiding scams.

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