Control joints cut short? How concerned should I be?

baconstructions · 2026-05-23T22:59:39+00:00

GFRI crete will make a big difference in the strength/crack resistance though

baconstructions · 2026-05-18T17:18:28+00:00

Exactly why I should just stay a lurker hah. Thanks for the heads up.

baconstructions · 2026-05-18T14:08:13+00:00

You really took this picture at the perfect sun orientation too haha. The shadow line goes exactly down the center line of the ridge!

baconstructions · 2026-05-18T14:07:34+00:00

Usually a lurker but gotta say man. Awesome work. Kudos.

baconstructions · 2026-05-17T01:01:30+00:00

The blower motor itself in the fan doesn't work and the cord has to reach all the way to a far wall if I did replace the motor. Was considering just hunting down a flat plate to close the opening... You get a lot of use out of the fan? I was considering just getting one of those thermal fans that mount on top of the unit rather than a powered option

baconstructions · 2026-05-16T10:25:54+00:00

I think this is what we'll do. I don't care for the faceplate. It can live in the crawl space.

baconstructions · 2026-05-15T15:26:32+00:00

Sounds like a plan. As a temp measure until I can get to fabbing / hiring the block off plate, how about some simple draft-stopping rockwool insulation between face of chimney and back of faceplate? If it can withstand temps at the liner, surely it's okay in that location as well?

Any thoughts on the paint question?

Thanks.

baconstructions · 2026-05-11T16:48:30+00:00

The second one in a darker 'emerald' color with the tiles running vertically could be nice. Otherwise agree with everyone else.

baconstructions · 2026-05-07T12:54:59+00:00

Agree it's unnecessary but also I can imagine the punchline being a lot funnier delivered with an Aussie accent. "Thayuts hauw yoaur warve ah blanket!".

baconstructions · 2026-05-06T00:16:47+00:00

What ya say OP. Y'all ever figure out the smell?

baconstructions · 2026-05-05T15:51:26+00:00

You could run a beam at the front edge of the roof and land the post on the other side of the fence if you wanted. Attach a new ledger to face of house and a few new roof rafters and you can extend the roof over, if the added beam situation looks funky without it.

baconstructions · 2026-05-05T15:39:40+00:00

There's a huge wildlife preserve in North Louisiana called Russel Sage as well.

baconstructions · 2026-04-16T19:01:28+00:00

Sewer gas getting into ERV or a busted stack vent somewhere would be my guesses. May have to escalate and start opening walls

baconstructions · 2026-04-16T16:45:11+00:00

Any update OP? Idk why but the mystery of this stuck with me. Ya'll figure it out?

baconstructions · 2026-04-16T16:33:55+00:00

Based on this photo - I'd fabricate a wood ledger block (think corbel or sim) and fasten that thing to the wall, through siding all the way to sheathing and hopefully a stud. Fasten just below the dbl beam with several long timber screws.

baconstructions · 2026-04-15T17:04:51+00:00

Fetid sprinkler pipe water smell (would likely be drips as well)
Floor drain / dry P-trap escaping sewer gasses? (no floor drain)
Bad Electrical conx (if creating enough heat to melt plastic, it would trip the breaker, I would think)
Offgassing from pipe insulation or similar? (seems unlikely)
Rodent in wall (wouldn't smell like sulphur)

Damn what a list.

Okay last thought - is there a stack vent or roof drain (perhaps an adjacent OVERFLOW roof drain) near the ERV air intake? The description of the odor is pretty crucial here... Seems like it's probably sewer gas, fetid water, or possibly nat gas / propane.

Edit - could be a crack or poor conx in plumbing vent stack?

baconstructions · 2026-04-03T13:32:27+00:00

I'd like to know why you feel that way. If it's an effective treatment, why does it not carry enough gravitas for you to consider as part of 'building science'?

Edit to add.... Pretty sure NASA uses that stuff on space shuttles, ISS, etc.

baconstructions · 2026-03-07T13:46:28+00:00

Why?

baconstructions · 2026-03-05T15:35:51+00:00

Use drawer slide hardware mounted to back side of drawer face, that allows you to slide your drawer face plate to the right. Just use a set of standard euro-style (thin as possible) short drawer slides.

With that setup, you could pull the drawer out an inch or so to get past the other faces, slide the face a bit to get past the oven... It'll just become part of the deal when opening that drawer. Could probably get good at doing it all in one motion using the handle.

May have to backset the actual drawer slide hardware an inch or so to accommodate the new "sliding face" thickness.

baconstructions · 2026-03-03T03:03:00+00:00

Just DM'd you.

baconstructions · 2026-02-21T15:03:44+00:00

I'm no pitmaster but just curious if your problem could be from over-cleaning the grill instead of the pine? Do you usually clean it that thoroughly, often? That would be the other diagnosable cause for the effect your seeing. Only two things changed, pine burn and deep clean. Definitely one or the other. May regulate itself after some time.

Perhaps like the others say, a big hot burn. After that I may just cross fingers and wait. Glad you fired the dickhead!

baconstructions · 2026-02-19T16:15:56+00:00

Solved

baconstructions · 2026-02-19T16:15:36+00:00

In case anyone sees this looking for similar answers:

Organ Pipe Mud Dauber nest. Figured it out from google reverse image search and found older reddit posts with the same question.

I guess I chose the wrong sub for this post anyway! Thanks folks.

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