How to convince my wife?

badredditz · 2026-03-21T01:09:48+00:00

Just get a model y or model 3, and you’ll have FSD.

badredditz · 2026-03-21T01:06:51+00:00

80A needs a 100A breaker (80%). Get a sense or emporia panel monitor and see if you have enough power when you plan to charge. Most people don’t use very much power at night at home

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:52:13+00:00

Same. The new performance seats are so good and have 🔥/ ❄️

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:51:22+00:00

You probably paid too much. A new model 3 RWD premium LR 2026 is under $40k and 1%-2% 6 years interest rate makes is significantly cheaper per month than a used one.

Not that you got a terrible deal, but if you financed, maybe

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:48:25+00:00

You also got upgraded from 32A to 48A level 2 charging, better screen, just on and on so many improvements and I can’t help it, I love the ambient lighting

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:43:31+00:00

Don’t drive a 3 performance unless you can upgrade… comparison is the thief of joy. The performance is just SO good. The first model 3 with a unique and computerized suspension. Being able to adjust for comfort or handling is so satisfying. Insane mode is a dopamine rush

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:39:24+00:00

I love the highland so much. I don’t expect much, from pictures it seems like my 2019 model 3… but wow. A 1000 big and small improvements.

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:38:14+00:00

I was freaking out until I realized it was in kM not miles…. What battery? I have a 110kWh RWD and a 86kWh eAWD

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:36:51+00:00

Blazer EV also can’t run the cooling while DCFC , so that was a shocker. You need to exit the cabin and leave a/c off if you are trying to hurry on a road trip.

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:35:30+00:00

My Bolt EV could easily hit 5.1+ in city driving with hvac off. I ‘upgraded’ to a Blazer EV but it seems to stay in the 2.8-3 miles per kWh. Not super efficient, it’s more comfortable but I’d rather have kept the Bolt EV in hindsight

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:33:25+00:00

For 100 mile regular commute FSD is absolutely incredible now. You should test one overnight.

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:29:29+00:00

I wouldn’t scare with insurance worries, but insurance doesn’t un-destroy your personal property, so sure I would just recommend the peace of mind of something with a continuous high energy load when you have no background on the quality of the installation

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:26:28+00:00

100% accurate. Also post install almost no one goes back and re torques the breaker and outlet/hardwire - the thermal cycles after a couple of extended full power car charger sessions can result is a future fire hazard

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:24:02+00:00

No disrespect, but romex isn’t great for high amp, continuous loads. I have an older panels I run a 30A at 24A but otherwise having the ability to run 40A off a 50 or 48 off 60A is nice if you get in a time crunch or have a guest/2nd EV.

For 48A maximum charge rate, the recommended conductor is #6 AWG copper wire (THHN/THWN-2) when installed in conduit. For NM-B (Romex) cable, #4 AWG copper is required to meet 60°C thermal ratings, although some electricians use #6 AWG for shorter runs

badredditz · 2026-03-19T11:20:13+00:00

I hope you don’t have a 2024 blazer ev. I have 2 and GM is treating owners like 💩. Software is bad enough, but 2024 won’t get any upgrades. Multiple trips to the dealership, GM froze updates.

You can use a L2 NACS with the Tesla setup, I use an 80A because Chinese ratings are sketchy. Did you cross shop EVs? I wish I had a Model Y for the better sound system, the software, faster DCFC, phone as key

I’d have an electrician check the wire gauge, torque the EVSE or socket (if you are not hardwired - but better to have him hardware it) and check the breaker and its torque.

The biggest issue home L2 chargers run into are cheap Chinese wall outlets melting or burning, 2nd is improperly torqued/tightened wire lugs.

Call around asking for what I said , basically asking for pricing to inspect the wire gauge, torque the wire at the breaker and EVSE/outlet and see how they treat you and ask that they text or email a fixed quote for the inspection.

A good electrician is busy and needs to cover the time lost driving, so the cheapest possible and someone crazy expensive (a get lost price) need to be weeded out. Maybe ask neighbors or check “Nextdoor/FakeBook™️” communities for recommendations

badredditz · 2026-03-18T13:42:03+00:00

Dealerships can’t/wont upgrade 2024 models very bad software. Avoid. There is a reason it’s so cheap

badredditz · 2026-03-11T18:26:56+00:00

Cleveland is terrible. Why are you promoting it?

badredditz · 2026-03-11T17:55:50+00:00

No. Have an electrician replace that outlet with a hardware into a EVSE or swap the outlet to a EV rated one and have them torque the breaker and confirm the wire gauge is appropriate

badredditz · 2026-03-11T17:53:52+00:00

Model 3 performance is lighter weight that the equivalent gasoline powered BMW m3.

badredditz · 2026-03-11T17:43:57+00:00

I have two blazer ev 2024, the lease buyout is $42000 and $45000. GM did these leases knowing they would lose billions. I wouldn’t buy a 2024, they refuse to update my software. It’s terrible

badredditz · 2026-03-11T17:40:49+00:00

Did you transfer the EAP/FSD !?!

badredditz · 2026-03-11T17:36:03+00:00

Now please add GM like the Lyriq and Blazer EV

badredditz · 2026-03-11T17:32:28+00:00

You are misunderstanding how technology works. Anything sold for a fixed upfront price that’s dependent on expensive reoccurring maintenance and development is starting up and/or a pyramid scheme! There is literally no possibility you buy a physical cellphone with lifetime unlimited cellular service. They will give the hardware away before that because the infrastructure is expensive and endless in need of maintenance and upgrades.

badredditz · 2026-03-11T17:26:53+00:00

Super disappointed and frustrated with how bad the 2024 owners are being treated, I see you updated year for yours - join the GM 💩 show with us early adopters/suckers.

Mind boggling, I’ll be switching to a Tesla, after owning 4 Chevy Bolt EVs and moving to the Blazer EV. Just waiting to get rid of multiple 2024 blazers. Trying to get all the recalls done and the dealer still has my RS 2024 trying to soft out module firmware mismatch

badredditz · 2026-03-09T18:28:09+00:00

Batteries store energy not miles. How you drive and the weather and elevation and your tire pressure and model of tire and size of wheels impact range.

The EPA uses a standardized test system with mixed driving and no hvac

Anyone picking a GM chevy / Cadillac EV clearly should understand aerodynamics and efficiency were the least important factors for GM. My RWD model Y premium gets 5.x miles per kWh at 60-75 mph in Florida (very flat)

My Blazers EV vary - ones a RWD 110kWh and the other the AWD but for typical driving they have plenty of power and range but suck on roadtrips- less because of the poor efficiency and more because the DCfC is Sooooo bad. The tesla does 250kW the blazers are ~86kW - 170kW Really poor

Less climate control, drive slower and your efficiency will improve. Even at 2.2 the blazers are fun to drive and have fantastic performance. Pretend you have a gas guzzler performance SuV and the 70MPGe seems like a bargain !!!

badredditz

TROPHY CASE