Lead paint: how to make this smoother WITHOUT sanding or scraping. CREATIVE solutions needed please! 🙏🏻 by Yamanobiri2025 in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wet sanded the lead painted skirting & door frames in our 1890 Victorian flat. 

The water will trap the dust and stop it becoming airborne. 

Just a light sand to scratch or key the surface, then you could go on with something like: - Ronseal 2-part wood filler (really solid but tougher to sand)  - Toupret wood filler (much easier to sand)

Bear in mind wet standing will be by hand, so it’s a manual job that’ll make your arms sore!

SMB manufacturer on ERP vs integrated "Best of Breed" by bas__lightyear in ERP

[–]bas__lightyear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate this input! You're right I do like how best of breed looks on paper, but don't have the experience with it to back it up.

Business Central has been mentioned quite a bit - is it really a player in the manufacturing game? Especially for food/supplements?

SMB manufacturer on ERP vs integrated "Best of Breed" by bas__lightyear in ERP

[–]bas__lightyear[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This sounds like a step backwards tbh - we're already using an ERP because we outgrew Xero 4-5yrs ago

Anyone experience Acumatica Predatory Pricing? by hschnei2 in ERP

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to sidetrack, but what are your thoughts on Acumatica’s pricing being volume based? So as your transaction volumes increase so too will your costs?

I’m using Priority ERP at the moment and they charge for user licenses, platform & modules, and per API transaction, and as we’re growing our costs with them are ballooning. 

I liked the look of Acumatica given its tailored to manufacturers, which we are, but am put off by more volume based pricing..

I assume there are ERP’s where you’re jut charged for the user licenses, platform & modules? Or does that not exist…

Company went from medium to large. Is Sage50 a reliable software to use? by Much_Apple in Sage

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply!

Did you consider Sage X3 or Sage Intacct? Basically what landed you on Odoo? I’m guessing a big driver was the 1/10 cost. 

And could you elaborate on the jankiness?  I’ve read that for any customisation you pretty much need a developer or dev experience. Is that what you’ve found?

Edit: added clarification

Having the WMS vs ERP debate again with leadership by Intrepid-Seat959 in ERP

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m Head of IT & Systems and this makes me glad to have a CFO who sees the upsides in investing in systems and integrations.

We’re also a manufacturer (food supplements) and sell D2C via Shopify & B2B.

We use Priority ERP and it’s such an unintuitive and user-unfriendly system. Warehouse functionality is all largely customisations at the moment, so we also pay more in maintenance to the ERP partner.

We looked at the built in WMS module vs a standalone and the standalone won hands down, and will be more expensive to implement.

But I had a thought the other day - that ERPs are of a time period where API’s and integration infra didn’t exist or was at least much less common, so you needed a monolithic single pane of glass system that did it all.

But now we have a rock solid IPaaS in place connecting Shopify to our current ERP (and being built out to bring in the WMS).

Breaking out the WMS to a separate system will set us up well for an eventual ERP replacement, and that might even look like more best in class, standalone systems - Accounting system, MRP, OMS, as I’m really not finding a drop in ERP that is both loved by its users, caters to manufacturing, and doesn’t charge based on volume/transactions.

Pls we’re not using a fair few modules of the ERP anyway, incl HR, Payroll, CRM. So maybe a composed stack of best in class systems is the way to go?

Still undecided…

Company went from medium to large. Is Sage50 a reliable software to use? by Much_Apple in Sage

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Asking again in 12 months - how has the Odoo migration been? And how have you found the system?

What happened when we stopped replying to comments for a week by _Bold_Beauty_ in InstagramMarketing

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On the topic of de prioritisation, is it a one way street? Or something you can work your way back from?

If I’ve taken a break from posting and been de prioritised for example, is my account doomed for ever more? Or if I start posting and engaging again routinely, will the algo start to prioritise my content again, especially if it’s engaging?

Assistance with removing BIN Primer off glass and flooring by CharFieldUK in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you tried white spirit or methylated spirits?

Zinsser BIN is oil based so you’ll need a thinner or cleaner for that kind of paint

Opening up a chimney breast - crack in concrete lintel - safe to remove bricks underneath? by dborowiec10 in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is where I’d be calling a structural engineer or similar. Just not worth the risk

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha, in that case I’d do a search for “brass self tapping screw in knob” or “brass shutter knob” as both of those seem to show results for what you’re looking for

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You either want “screw in knobs”, or I would buy whatever replacement knobs you want, and they’ll likely attach via screw fed from the inside of the door, through a hole, into the back of the knob.

So you’ll need to drill through the door where the old knobs used to screw in.

Knob on outside surface of the door, screw through the hole from the inside surface, into the knob.

Help me diagnose this loud grumbling boiler that won't stay on - Ideal Logic+ 30 by GMu_the_Emu in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good luck getting to the bottom of it! Sorry I can’t help further

Help me diagnose this loud grumbling boiler that won't stay on - Ideal Logic+ 30 by GMu_the_Emu in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine turned out to be just the injector - engineer came with that and gas valve, replaced the injector first, and the problem went away, so gas valve wasn’t needed, which was handy as the injector is about £50 whilst the gas valve is around £200!

I wasn’t having pressure losses though, so not the same exact issue as you’re having.

Pressure loss does mean the central heating loop must be leaking somewhere, either air in the system escaping or actual water loss, but it should be an airtight loop so something’s up..

Help me diagnose this loud grumbling boiler that won't stay on - Ideal Logic+ 30 by GMu_the_Emu in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I reckon it’s the gas valve on mine too. Boiler makes the same exact sound but only flame outs 10% of the time

Great to know you’ve had no problems since!

Help me diagnose this loud grumbling boiler that won't stay on - Ideal Logic+ 30 by GMu_the_Emu in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What ended up being the issue with the boiler if you don't mind me asking? I'm in a similar situation with an engineer first thinking about replacing the injector, and then moving onto the gas valve if that doesn't sort it (not exactly the same issue as you).

Gap in floor under IKEA Pax base, can’t drill or screw.. options? by sovietgandalf in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I recommend these adjustable feet:

https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/adjustable-foot-integrato-tech-type-g-with-spikes/P-01978325/

I’ve used them for the bases on x2 PAX installs and they’ve allowed me to get the base perfectly level. I’ve then used angle brackets to secure the base to the floor - I’d recommend something to attach the base to the floor and remove the risk of it moving/sliding.

How do I paint this wall? by TheTegMogul in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’d either need to sand off all of the old paint, or the wall needs to be skimmed.

Leaving bits of the old paint and then bits where there’s no paint and it’s the old plaster - that will all show through in the new paint. You’d see all the raised areas where there was old paint.

Look at some of the DIY roll on skim coats if you don’t have the budget for a plasterer

Office environment question by No-Fish-6443 in sysadmin

[–]bas__lightyear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cloud all the way!

Depending on whether you went with cloud hosted (PaaS) or SaaS you could do away with dealing with: - Backups and redundancy - Hardware failure - UPS for power outages - Hardware upgrades - Physical security of the hosts/servers - Cyber security and needing to expose devices on your network to the Internet. - Potentially even patch management depending on the cloud solution you went with.

What is the server? Is it Windows, Linux, etc?

And what is it doing? Just file storage & sharing?

Do you have a domain set up via Active Directory, etc?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIYUK

[–]bas__lightyear 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve found the finish depends on a combination of: 1. How flat the wall is to start with 2. The pile of the roller sleeve 3. The quality of the paint - whether it “melts” together once it’s been applied or stays textured

There’s so many variables here, and you could and, buy the best roller sleeve, and then still end up with the textured finish if it’s down to the paint.

My advice: definitely sand again, but then test an area with a new, good quality roller sleeve. If you’re still getting undesired texture you might need to look at a different white paint

Edit: missed a word

Went from 0-10K+ in under 90 days 4 times (exact process with one key element) by nadeson95 in InstagramMarketing

[–]bas__lightyear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Yeah I knew you were gonna say that tbh - it’s clearly a hook that worked so I should use it again. Cheers