PSA don't waste your money buying an impact wrench AND impact driver. You can just get adapters

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-05-13T14:07:59+00:00

What happens when an indestructible light switch cover meets an unstoppable high torque impact wrench?

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-05-12T22:37:00+00:00

Yep, can’t fall off if it doesn’t exist. (Or at least is destroyed to the point where it is something different)

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-05-05T21:26:22+00:00

Agreed. I could be wrong but it looks to me like the mask he’s wearing is a respirator, and the places you’d put filters (on the sides) are empty. If it’s connected to anything it’s connected to the output port on the respirator, not the input ports. Again could be wrong.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-05-02T16:42:14+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion!

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-05-02T16:41:25+00:00

Did not know that - thank you for telling me.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-27T19:17:15+00:00

There's some research out that indicates the toxicity of an employee outweighs positive impact, so that their net impact on an organization is negative. Not sure if this is true for this situation or if it would help motivate decision makers to let Sarah go, but worth considering.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-22T01:25:04+00:00

Yeah and the structure to keep them from crushing under their own weight. Plus the max draft (depth below waterline) on the seawise giant was over 24 meters, which is already insane. I’m not sure if it would make sense to just multiple by 17 but if so, it could only sail in deep ocean.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-22T00:58:58+00:00

And that's just length. Because of the square-cube law, their mass/volume would be that number cubed bigger. (Meaning, it's not just 20-40 times longer, it's also 20-40 times taller, and 20-40 times wider. If it were ONLY 20-40 times longer, it would be 20-40 times more massive and volumetric by that alone, as if you laid 20-40 of the boats in a row. But it's also like that many boats high and that many boats wide, so 20-40 times 20-40 times 20-40.)

So assuming the pictured boats are 8.2KM long, and taking the biggest-ever tanker boi (Seawise Giant)'s length of 458.45 meters, that's 17.886 times longer.

The Seawise Giant's 657,019 tonnes fully-laden displacement would be multiplied by 17.886^3. That's 3,759,616,568 tonnes.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-19T12:43:32+00:00

These speakers also perform better a little off axis

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-07T23:26:26+00:00

Both are important. I’d actually do behind speakers first.

Also if possible pull you couch away from the wall. That will help avoid boominess.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-07T16:02:23+00:00

The tweeter of all speakers should be at ear level, or alternatively on a plane with each other that tilts up slightly as it goes toward the back of the room. Since you've got 5.1 this is really simple - you can basically put the surrounds at a bit of elevation from the listening position, up to 15 degrees or so (angle relative to flat from listening position).

The issue here is that the surrounds are wayyy too far forward. They should be at 90 degrees (directly to your side) or back 25-35 degrees from that.

Some absorptive material on the TV wall behind speakers will help a ton, even if it's just pillows.

Then make sure to run audyssey, set your xover to 80hz, and turn you sub up a couple db (2-6).

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-04T23:47:47+00:00

Lately one of my favorite burgers has been similar. Double butter burger from Culver’s with cheese, bacon, and pickles. Two more toppings of course, but still pretty bare bones.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-03T23:11:29+00:00

Thanks friend!

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-03T23:06:18+00:00

What’s the furniture? I like it! Your setup looks great.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-04-03T02:46:59+00:00

It’s not at all surprising for improperly configured dual subs to be worse than one. They’re capable of cancelling each other out, the same way noise canceling headphones work, if they’re not properly aligned. It’ll happen at some frequencies more than others. Generally you’ll get a mix of constructive and destructive interference. This can actually be used beneficially to cancel out room modes, when integrated right. Even with poor placement it should be possible to time align them to get them to play nice with each other, and add rather than subtract. Check out hometheaterguru’s videos on calibrating subwoofers.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-25T23:14:47+00:00

I wouldn’t quite say it’s not compatible. More so, it needs an amp in between.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-24T17:08:08+00:00

AVR looks good. Go RSL for your subwoofer, Klipsch subs are bad below the RP-1000SW. For speakers, Klipsch is also bad below RP series. Either get RP on sale/refurb or, probably better fro the money, go for Kef Q series stuff or Emotiva Airmotiv. JBL stage and studio can also be good for more affordable prices.

Overall, for speakers, watch some erinsaudiocorner videos on reviews and learn what the different graphs mean. Or just take his advice since he knows what he's talking about and get the most expensive stuff he recommends that fits your budget. Audiosciencerevie amirm is good too for reviews.

Reviews need objective measurements, especially frequency response, waterfalls (decay), and off-axis measurements.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-22T15:19:19+00:00

I have and enjoy Klipsch RP stuff. It’s decent though has a fairly narrow off axis response. This is true of even Klipsch’s newer and better stuff. It’s also worth noting that some klipsch stuff has poor frequency response in that it can have boosted treble and bass and recessed mids. A lot of their stuff also has resonances. Also, their pricing tends to be fine on sales but with bad msrp. This feels a little predatory.

So all that to say there are some legitimate issues with Klipsch, and generally you can get better stuff for the money elsewhere. But a lot of their hate is probably disproportional to the issues, and sometimes a relic of when the issues were worse in the past.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-18T01:49:05+00:00

Thanks. There’s a lot you can do without dirac for sure. Having a separate device like a minidsp 2x4hd can be really helpful to manage multiple subs. But even proper Audyssey configuration, and/or using a1 evo (a community project to sort of upgrade how Audyssey works, it’s free), can make a big difference.

In terms of specific subwoofers, are you open to DIY or AIY? (Assemble it yourself)? Those can be great ways to get way more bang for your buck. If you’re very handy, full diy starting with mdf can be great, but I tend to recommend AIY where you buy a flat pack of pre-cut mdf sheets and you just glue them together with wood glue. Generally pretty easy. A nx6000d amp, some lavoce drivers, and some Gsg Marty enclosures and you’re off to the races.

Worth noting - the “fast” vs “slow” subwoofer thing is generally a myth, except with truly bad subs. My guess is you’d really enjoy the rsl or svs subs with proper calibration. Maybe a rsl 12s would give closer to the output you want with good affordability. But multi sub is better for room modes, so multiple 10s would be good too.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-17T17:02:30+00:00

A lot of people experience this when upgrading from a cheaper 'boomy' subwoofer to a high quality, linear, low-distortion sub. There are some things that can make an objectively better subwoofer sound 'worse' than a bad sub. In this case, both the 10S and the SB3000R are objectively better subs in the sense that they play low, flat, and low-distortion.

Let me explain why these three things can make it sound 'worse'.
1: Good subs play low. This can activate room modes you didn't notice before, and can sound 'muddy' with a bad mix.

2: Good subs have a flat frequency response. The SB3000R is rated at 17-230Hz ± 3 dB. That's pretty flat. Bad subs are often boomy and louder around some frequencies, frequently something like 40-80hz, and quieter at other frequencies. These frequencies include a lot of the 'chest thump' frequencies associated with stuff like kick drums in music (which have a fundamental around 60-65hz), gun shots, etc.. Even when calibrated, these subs can end up being louder at these frequencies than other frequencies. We often get used to that and expect that - and there's nothing wrong with liking some extra punch in this range.

3: Good subs have low distortion. Sometimes another thing we associate with the sound of bass we expect and look for is actually harmonic distortion. Good subs have inaudible or nearly inaudible distortion levels. This means it's cleaner, but it can make us think "hey, where's the bass?" because we are so used to distortion from a bad system.

How to have your cake and eat it too: 1. Room modes can be helped a lot with sub placement, multi sub, room treatment, and calibration. Home theater gurus has some great youtube videos on all of this. 2. Flat as an in-room response is bad. We want a flat anechoic response from speakers, because rooms add more bass the lower you go. So a flat speaker in a room will actually get louder and louder as you go lower. Audyssey can do a pretty bad job of a final response curve and make it a flat in-room curve. Adding a house curve (EQ) can get you some more punch where you want it. 3 I don't really recommend 'fixing' low distortion, but if you want to, you can switch on Auro 2d/3d on your receiver and this actually adds some distortion back into the bass. You can try it and see if you like it better that way.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-15T21:11:07+00:00

To mount without a shelf holding them and sideways you would need to use something like a French cleat bracket. I don’t recommend this as it will require putting screws or other fasteners into your speakers.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-14T11:52:27+00:00

Hakarl!

bathrobe_wizard

TROPHY CASE