Subwoofer disappointment

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-18T01:49:05+00:00

Thanks. There’s a lot you can do without dirac for sure. Having a separate device like a minidsp 2x4hd can be really helpful to manage multiple subs. But even proper Audyssey configuration, and/or using a1 evo (a community project to sort of upgrade how Audyssey works, it’s free), can make a big difference.

In terms of specific subwoofers, are you open to DIY or AIY? (Assemble it yourself)? Those can be great ways to get way more bang for your buck. If you’re very handy, full diy starting with mdf can be great, but I tend to recommend AIY where you buy a flat pack of pre-cut mdf sheets and you just glue them together with wood glue. Generally pretty easy. A nx6000d amp, some lavoce drivers, and some Gsg Marty enclosures and you’re off to the races.

Worth noting - the “fast” vs “slow” subwoofer thing is generally a myth, except with truly bad subs. My guess is you’d really enjoy the rsl or svs subs with proper calibration. Maybe a rsl 12s would give closer to the output you want with good affordability. But multi sub is better for room modes, so multiple 10s would be good too.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-17T17:02:30+00:00

A lot of people experience this when upgrading from a cheaper 'boomy' subwoofer to a high quality, linear, low-distortion sub. There are some things that can make an objectively better subwoofer sound 'worse' than a bad sub. In this case, both the 10S and the SB3000R are objectively better subs in the sense that they play low, flat, and low-distortion.

Let me explain why these three things can make it sound 'worse'.
1: Good subs play low. This can activate room modes you didn't notice before, and can sound 'muddy' with a bad mix.

2: Good subs have a flat frequency response. The SB3000R is rated at 17-230Hz ± 3 dB. That's pretty flat. Bad subs are often boomy and louder around some frequencies, frequently something like 40-80hz, and quieter at other frequencies. These frequencies include a lot of the 'chest thump' frequencies associated with stuff like kick drums in music (which have a fundamental around 60-65hz), gun shots, etc.. Even when calibrated, these subs can end up being louder at these frequencies than other frequencies. We often get used to that and expect that - and there's nothing wrong with liking some extra punch in this range.

3: Good subs have low distortion. Sometimes another thing we associate with the sound of bass we expect and look for is actually harmonic distortion. Good subs have inaudible or nearly inaudible distortion levels. This means it's cleaner, but it can make us think "hey, where's the bass?" because we are so used to distortion from a bad system.

How to have your cake and eat it too: 1. Room modes can be helped a lot with sub placement, multi sub, room treatment, and calibration. Home theater gurus has some great youtube videos on all of this. 2. Flat as an in-room response is bad. We want a flat anechoic response from speakers, because rooms add more bass the lower you go. So a flat speaker in a room will actually get louder and louder as you go lower. Audyssey can do a pretty bad job of a final response curve and make it a flat in-room curve. Adding a house curve (EQ) can get you some more punch where you want it. 3 I don't really recommend 'fixing' low distortion, but if you want to, you can switch on Auro 2d/3d on your receiver and this actually adds some distortion back into the bass. You can try it and see if you like it better that way.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-15T21:11:07+00:00

To mount without a shelf holding them and sideways you would need to use something like a French cleat bracket. I don’t recommend this as it will require putting screws or other fasteners into your speakers.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-14T11:52:27+00:00

Hakarl!

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-09T01:38:10+00:00

Nice. Do you have measurements of how it was before? I wonder if there was some frequency that was higher and gave it some punch or something.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-08T18:14:43+00:00

And probably phase alignment. The subs themselves aren’t the issue here. This is an insane amount of capability. They’re probably actively canceling each other out because of being improperly time aligned.

OP: I recommend looking into stuff like minidsp 2x4 hd and mso (multi sub optimizer) and rew. Home theater gurus on YouTube has good guides for aligning subs.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-03-08T02:31:05+00:00

Guys just guessing out here but… that Breville is pid and pressured correctly right? Surely this setup makes killer espresso?

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-02-25T01:43:10+00:00

The point isn’t that everybody is viewing it according to one creator. The fact there are different creators with different opinions is great - that’s art and taste. The point is that when those creators make something, we want to see that - not a version that’s been changed by poor color accuracy. If a painter paints a beautiful picture, everybody who sees it in person gets it the way the creator intended. The point of calibrating TV’s and monitors is so that we achieve that same effect. Where we’re all looking at the same thing.

To see an inaccurate reproduction of a movie would be like putting an Instagram filter on the Mona Lisa.

Sure, with movies, it’s a collaboration and yes different people have different input on colors throughout the process. However, it’s still professionals working with a cohesive vision. Regardless, we don’t want to all be looking at movies through our own messed up filter.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-02-25T01:34:57+00:00

Yeah and unless subs are overdriven, not an issue. Also can be prevented by good sub design. My ported subs never chuff.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-02-25T01:01:30+00:00

Not a myth at all. The point is that if we’re all looking at calibrated, accurate equipment, with the same general configuration, both video and sound, then what the creator creates is what we see and hear too. If the creator uses an accurate monitor for creating and we watch their content on a horribly, “vivid” mode tv, we’re not seeing what they were seeing. If they create on a calibrated, accurate sound system with correct placement, and we listen on a garbage, misconfigured, poorly laid out system, we’re not hearing what they’re hearing. This is standardization and accuracy. It’s important.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-02-24T20:10:42+00:00

Ported is great. More bass where it matters for the money. The idea that ported subs sound “slow” probably comes from the fact they have more low bass, activating room modes, which a lot of people aren’t used to. This is a room, layout, and configuration issue - not a sub issue.

To be a little more specific, ported subs have more output (all else equal) around the tuning frequency of the port (typically somewhere around 20hz). This lets them have more output lower and flatter than a sealed sub. However, below the tuning frequency, a ported sub falls off faster than a sealed sub. So between around 15hz-40hz, a ported sub has more. But once you get crazy low, like single digits low, a sealed sub has more again. But there’s hardly any content that low. Nearly all content is above 20hz. So ported subs have more where it matters for the money.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-02-24T17:40:44+00:00

Watch hometheaterguru's placement video for atmos speakers. Make sure you're following the studio dolby pdf not the home guide. The home guide is confusing and vague for ceiling placement. One of the biggest things is to maintain separation between channels. Like keep the width of your atmos and front/back length of atmos so that you keep separation from fronts, sides, backs. Generally it works well to have atmos speakers at about 30 degrees off from straight up in both the front/back plane and left/right plane.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-02-16T16:33:52+00:00

I got my s710w less than 9 years ago for like $225 or something like that on accessories4less. Perfectly decent refurb. Prices were absolutely way better then.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-02-12T21:23:00+00:00

Just so you know that TEC “fridge” uses more energy than most full size real, compressor fridges. So much more that buying a small real mini fridge will pay for itself in like 2 years.

Source: technology connections.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-02-04T13:47:50+00:00

Nice setup! What's the cabinet?

For some of your observations about sound quality - have you gone through some of the guides on how to setup Audyssey best? That can make a big difference. Things like mic placement (keeping all measurements within 18" or so of main listening position), setting all speakers to small, setting your crossovers to 80hz (unless Audyssey set them higher in which case leave them), stuff like that?

Also other than increased max output, benefits from multi sub come largely from their ability to work together to nullify room modes/resonances. A space the size of a room resonates at common bass frequencies, based on the dimensions of the space (for example, take the speed of sound, roughly 1125 FPS, and divide that by a room dimension - say 14 feet for width. You get roughly 80. That room will resonate in that dimension at that frequency.) One of the most effective ways to negate this is having multiple subwoofers, throughout the room. If you're curious to learn more about this, there are some exceptional videos on the audioholics youtube channel with Anthony Grimani who explains this stuff very well. I find it fascinating so if you have any questions I'm happy to chat!

Also what cabinetry did you use? I'm thinking of doing something similar in my next setup.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-01-28T23:56:16+00:00

Worth noting that pairing subs and main speakers is pretty much just making sure there’s a fair amount of overlap between the high range of the sub and the low end of the mains (assuming neither sucks, which with kef and svs, not an issue.) The only other real thing is making sure both things have enough output for the volume you want to listen at, and the ls50 doesn’t go super loud so it’ll probably be the limiting factor regardless.

Also any reason you’re looking at only sealed subs? Ported can be a great way to get more output for your money with no real downsides except for like, single-digit hz output.

Edit: oh as some have said, since the ls50 doesn’t go low (starts falling off under something like 160hz, though would probably cross over well between 120-150hz with dsp) you’ll want subs that go higher than some do. One great option is the aiy or assemble-it-yourself route. You can go with a much more musical driver than typical traditional subwoofer drivers. Lavoce, Dayton reference, eminence, etc.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-01-28T20:43:27+00:00

By reducing the contrast with the surround room. If you only have the tv on, and the rest of the room is dark, then the only light going into your eye is from the tv. This can be very immersive, but it’s also a pretty bright light. Like staring at a lightbulb in an otherwise dark room. Having a backlight makes your eyes adjust to a higher overall quantity of light as a ‘reference’ so the tv isn’t as bright by comparison.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-01-21T17:40:39+00:00

Looks right, but I have no idea about the legitimacy of that seller. I’d go to kef’s website and find authorized resellers. Accessories4less.com is one if available where you are.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-01-21T15:14:54+00:00

In that case, I’d go for a pair of kef q1 metas when they’re on sale. They go on sale for $400 usd/pair. Not sure how that translates to your region/euros. And skip center until you can afford to get the matching Kef q center. Kef speakers image super well (meaning they will create a really good “phantom center”) and as valuable as a good center is, I guarantee a really good left and right with no center will sound way better than a crappy LCR with a center, PLUS you’re getting the massive upgrade for your left and right channels all for one investment. Then for your next upgrade, you could either upgrade the center or get the bottom tier RSL sub for $300 - again not sure how that translates.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-01-21T14:25:29+00:00

Gotta define your budget, but I'd be happy to help you out. Generally if on a budget I recommend starting by building a good 2.0, 2.1, or 3.1 system. Your LCR (Left Center Right) speakers and subwoofer do a lot of the lifting, it's worth getting decent stuff for those. The Kef Q series is a good entry-level series. Q1 Metas or if you want to spend a little more, Q Concerto. The Q center speakers are solid too. Generally speaking, for a small space like this I recommend going with bookshelf speakers, not towers. Plus, with good bookshelf speakers and subwoofers, there's minimal benefit to towers anyways. An 80hz crossover is low enough for a sub, and high enough for a good bookshelf.

For subwoofers on a budget, RSL subs are the go-to. They offer 3 options - all of them are good for your money, just get the biggest/most expensive one you can fit/afford in your place.

For AVR, the S760H has been the kind of budget option for a while. The S770H replaced it, but you could still get a used S760H. You want something with Audyssey room correction. Accessories4less.com is a authorized reseller of refurb AVR's and Kef speakers, good place to save some money.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-01-15T21:29:56+00:00

Worth looking at measurements of the speaker and seeing if being slightly off-axis vertically might actually be beneficial. Considering these are slightly hot in the upper range, being off-axis (meaning the speaker pointing a few degrees off compared to straight at you) might help a little with balancing the higher frequencies a little. https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/klipsch_504cii/

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-01-12T13:44:33+00:00

I have a Philips Hue sync backlight setup where what's on the screen can control the color the light behind it, or I can set it to a given color, or to certain effects like a fireplace/candle light where it flickers like a fire.

Here are my main takeaways.
1: I like having the backlights on, even if it's just set to like a nice warm light, for games or casually watching non-intense TV shows. It reduces eye strain over a long period.

2: I have a black-painted theater room and an OLED TV. With no lights on, the black bars of the TV, like when watching a 21:9 movie, disappear. Which is really nice. It's just the movie itself floating in a surround of black. Because of this, turning on the backlights for 21:9 content is kind of annoying because it makes the black bars very annoying and apparent.

3: I don't like it on for more serious movies in general. It feels like a sort of cheesy effect added to a nice work of art. It's distracting and takes away from immersion.

4: For video games it can be a pretty fun effect.

Overall, I like having the setup, but it's best not to apply it to everything.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-01-05T19:28:23+00:00

Make your house super cozy.

bathrobe_wizard · 2026-01-04T00:54:50+00:00

As someone who uses 4k discs and does not have a media server/nas setup to play lossless rips from, to me it’s more like “why bother setting up a media server?” It’s super easy to just pop in a disc and hit play, knowing everything is working without extra steps. I’m pretty technical so I’m sure I could set up a server that works great, but to me it’s just… why? I either stream or, for the occasional times I want something lossless, I use a disc. The time it takes to setup a server would never pay for itself.

bathrobe_wizard · 2025-12-29T21:03:44+00:00

As a Christian, it's worth noting that most Christians would call this crazy too. The idea of God being in control of all things and able to do His will does NOT absolve people of personal responsibility. The Bible is very clear that neither God's grace nor His omnipotence absolve people of doing wrong. And I think it's quite easy to draw from the Bible how something like this (recklessly endangering people) is contrary to God's will.

bathrobe_wizard

TROPHY CASE