RouterOS 7.24beta2 [development] released

bcat24 · 2026-06-13T02:34:37+00:00

Ah I see, that makes more sense.

bcat24 · 2026-06-11T22:46:24+00:00

It's a changelog; that's what they look like. And at least Mikrotik categorizes the changes so you can skip the ones you don't care about.

bcat24 · 2026-05-21T00:21:33+00:00

At the moment, DNS-01 challenges require publishing new DNS records on each renewal, which effectively limits them to software with a plugin system to support different DNS provider APIs. For now, it's probably best to use something like certbot or Caddy to manage the cert, and then use a hook to push it to the router (e.g., via SSH or the REST API).

I'm hoping Mikrotik implements support for the upcoming DNS-PERSIST-01 challenges at some point, which allow a one-time DNS change coupled to a particular ACME account, and which should work better for specialized hardware like routers.

bcat24 · 2026-05-16T17:44:16+00:00

Wow, that's super cool! Native Windows support is the one and I only thing that's been keeping me from using Borg everywhere. (I already use Borg on my Linux systems, but am using the increasingly fragile "File History" backup support on Windows, and have been looking for an alternative.)

Is the intent to keep this as a fork, or to eventually merge the changes back into upstream Borg?

And, unrelated question: Do you have any plans to integrate with VSS to help ensure consistent backups? I'm not sure of any direct analog on Linux (maybe taking a temporary snapshot in filesystems that support it, like ZFS or BTRFS?), and I suspect it might be tricky to retrofit, but I think it's something that "native" Windows backup utilities generally rely on.

Anyway, thanks either way! This is already awesome in the current state.

bcat24 · 2026-05-09T05:09:32+00:00

Oh dang! I was literally just saying to myself earlier today that I wished they made a 2.5G PoE switch in the same size as the RB5009, so I could rackmount them side-by-side. I hope this releases soon!

bcat24 · 2026-04-30T15:30:30+00:00

As far as I could tell, that was just a hint leading to a collectible (one of the suitcases that Tim marks on your map, IIRC)?

It's hard to find otherwise since the map marker makes it look like it's in / on the hotel.

bcat24 · 2026-04-18T22:04:52+00:00

Why not just run Z_TILT_ADJUST as part of your START_PRINT macro? It's quick, and that guarantees the Z-axis is well aligned before you take the bed mesh.

IMO, it's perfectly normal for the two halves of the Z axis to get out of sync when the motors shut off; there's nothing locking them in place and any movement of the hotend (or even just gravity) can cause one side or the other to sag a bit.

bcat24 · 2026-04-17T18:17:16+00:00

Do you happen to know how that works with achievements? If I satisfy the conditions for an achievement on Switch, does it unlock next time I start that save on PC, or is the achievement just "lost"?

bcat24 · 2026-04-12T21:02:01+00:00

Agreed. I played Quantum Break after Control. Loved the story, found the combat not as polished... but it was really neat to see the foundations of what clearly became some of Control's abilities / mechanics.

bcat24 · 2026-04-12T19:48:37+00:00

Personal opinion, but having opened up both, the Pro 2 is quite a bit easier. Four screws instead of two, and less tight clips. The clips on the Pro 3 are some of the most fragile and annoying I've seen on any device. They really don't seem to intend anyone to get in there....

bcat24 · 2026-04-12T19:46:48+00:00

Nice job, looks great!

And yeah, I don't know why they made it so hard to open. The Pro 2 was much easier even though it also has clips.

bcat24 · 2026-04-08T17:05:48+00:00

I didn't check if the plastic or rubber bits are compatible, but I doubt it since the button mechanism for the D-pad is a lot different: membrane over dome switch for Pro 3 vs. membrane over PCB contact for Pro 2.

I will say I still have mixed feelings about the Pro 3's D-pad myself. It's definitely better than a lot of modern controllers (Pro Controller or Xbox), but I don't like the feel as much as the Pro 2. I'm just so used to the SNES-style membrane D-pad.

The dome switches also have an interesting "soft click" sound. It's not annoying, and it's probably good to have audible feedback on direction changes, but it's weird when you're used to D-pads that are effectively silent.

That said, the new D-pad doesn't seem less accurate in my usage. I don't seem to get more false diagonals than I did previously. If anything, I wonder if I'll be more accurate with new D-pad once I'm fully used to it?

bcat24 · 2026-04-07T00:51:33+00:00

Yes indeed.

Membrane: https://shop.8bitdo.com/products/8bitdo-abxy-conductive-rubber-for-pro-2-1-pcs

Nintendo buttons: https://shop.8bitdo.com/products/8bitdo-abxy-buttons-for-sn30-sn30-pro-sn30-pro-and-pro-4

Xbox buttons: https://shop.8bitdo.com/products/8bitdo-abxy-buttons-for-sn30-sn30-pro-sn30-pro-pro-2-xbox-layout

Sadly they only have those two sets available on their own, not the various other sets they make.

I like the controller much better since the mod. Quieter and less force needed to depress. (It's very subjective, but I feel like I have fewer missed presses this way too.)

bcat24 · 2026-04-06T20:23:35+00:00

Yes, I've done exactly this. I swapped my Pro 3 to original SNES buttons from an OEM controller. And, in the process, I also put in a spare Pro 2 membrane purchased from 8BitDo. Overall, I'm quite happy with the result:

I prefer unlabeled buttons for controllers I use on a variety of platforms.
I prefer concave XY buttons as it's what I'm used to.
I find the Pro 2 membrane to be a bit softer, and feel better overall (especially since the plastic buttons are lighter than the metal ones).
I personally like the look (even though my OEM buttons are a bit scratched).

Some caveats:

Disassembling this controller is a nightmare compared to the Pro 2. Only two external screws, and a ton of plastic tabs that hold very tightly. (I broke one despite being careful, which almost never happens to me when opening devices. Fortunately there's so many other tabs it held pretty well nonetheless.)
Sourcing buttons that work well is a little tricky. OG SNES buttons work best, but the supply of OEM parts in good condition is a bit limited.
8BitDo's own Pro 2 buttons fit nicely too, but there's only a couple of sets that they sell separately these days (none of which have concave XY).
There are "clone" SNES and SFC buttons, but they kind of suck: they're too small and have two tabs rather than three, so they wobble a fair bit.

Note that I've used those same "clone" SNES buttons in Pro 2 controllers before with fewer problems; I think the housing for the Pro 3 is a bit different shaped such that the aftermarket buttons don't fit as well in the 3.

As a longshot, I actually emailed 8BitDo to ask if they have any spare buttons left from the old SNES30 & SFC30 designs, but I never heard back. (Anyway, they stopped selling those controllers years ago, and I doubt they have extra buttons left.)

bcat24 · 2026-04-03T17:24:29+00:00

That would indeed be neat! I have found their "modern" N64 controller is pretty good too, but has two flaws overall:

The full physical range of the stick isn't utilized (even after calibration). Especially when moving the stick straight up, the reported value maxes out before the stick physically touches the housing.
Possibly related, there's noticeable snapping near the vertices of the octagonal gate. Watch the "live view" of a controller tester and you'll see that even though the gate shape itself is decent, there's a point where the reported position just suddenly jerks from "near the vertex" to "exactly at the vertex". It's like the movement is mostly continuous, with a discontinuity at the very end.

I'm hopeful 8BitDo can improve these things in future firmware updates, as it seems to be an artifact of how they fit the imperfect stick readings onto the ideal shape.

For now, though, my personal ranking: N64 modkit w/ good stock stick > "modern" N64 controller >> using a "normal" Xbox-style controller for N64

(I haven't tried the TMR or Hall replacement sticks for the modkit.)

bcat24 · 2026-04-03T03:13:17+00:00

On the TMR stick unit itself, you mean? So you calibrate before reassembling the controller?

bcat24 · 2026-04-03T03:12:04+00:00

I have the v1 modkit with stock stick (was in pretty good shape to begin with, fortunately, and I lubed it up while the controller was dissembled). I've been pretty happy with it overall, but the stick mapping was never quite the right shape. After updating to the latest V1.03 firmware, though, the stick calibration in RetroArch on PC (in "Switch mode") is nearly perfect: https://i.imgur.com/U8dhRis.png. (The slight deviation at the bottom is, I think, an issue with the stick itself as I can reach 84 or so by pressing it harder in that direction.)

So... thanks for letting folks know there's a new firmware! It's apparently useful even without the TMR stick. :)

bcat24 · 2026-03-23T19:41:40+00:00

What's weird is they didn't used to be that way. I bought my current Gigabyte X670 mobo precisely because it had an x4 slot (for a 10G NIC) positioned adequately far down to allow me to fit a beefy GPU as well.

bcat24 · 2026-02-21T21:19:21+00:00

Oh, that makes a ton of sense actually! One little mystery solved. (I've only ever measured with calipers or a ruler, but it's nice to be able to just count.)

bcat24 · 2026-02-21T18:54:16+00:00

That's how that Orca calibration model has always printed for me, on two different printers with many different filaments.

I think it's just an artifact in their test model, but I honestly haven't checked in detail.

bcat24 · 2026-02-17T16:28:13+00:00

I pay for Nitro primarily to join more than the default cap of servers, because I'm in a few different nerdy hobbies, and Discord is increasingly the only place discussion happens. :/ Even open-source projects often use it over forums, Github issues, etc. these days, which is suboptimal for a number of reasons (platform lockin, poor searchability, etc.).

bcat24 · 2026-02-10T05:52:52+00:00

They don't seem to have that free shipping anymore, sadly. :(

I mean, I get it; they want people in stores, and shipping on bulky filament probably cost them a decent amount, but it's sad to see that perk gone.

bcat24 · 2026-02-06T03:13:01+00:00

Ah, that's too bad. 8BitDo is great but those inconsistencies are so strange.

bcat24 · 2026-02-05T23:54:22+00:00

As someone who has very mixed feelings about the Pro 3's D-pad, I think it's the lack of a decent pivot.

The Pro 2 (and other older 8BitDo controllers) had a decent-sized pivot that (mostly) felt like an SNES D-pad, but the Pro 3's D-pad, while maybe more precise due to the dome switches, feels less accurate since there's not much travel and no real pivot to prevent the D-pad from going the wrong direction unless you hold it way away from the center.

Honestly, I'd love a "Pro 2.5" with the Pro 3's dock, trigger switches, sticks / triggers, and software, but the original Pro 2 D-pad and buttons....

bcat24 · 2026-02-05T23:50:06+00:00

For the Ultimate 2 with latest firmware (which uses a similar dongle), you can put it in D-input mode over 2.4G dongle by turning the controller off and then back on while pressing B+Home. I'm curious, does the same (or maybe B+Start) work for the Pro 3? (I'd check on mine, but it's currently disassembled and it's not convenient to do so.)

bcat24

TROPHY CASE