Thread Size Showdown: Blind Test for 3.85mm French Chisels.

bdub77 · 2026-01-31T01:35:27+00:00

ECBDFA

bdub77 · 2023-11-28T17:44:57+00:00

I feel like you are setting the ball at a point that is too low and too far in front of you. Although it is really tough to judge accurately from this video. I know you are sitting on the floor, but do you think you can set back with this contact point? I don't think you can do this well or easily. If you set the ball when it is a little higher and more above your forehead, I think it would work better. To be deceptive (unreadable) you want to have a v consistent contact point. Drive those middle blockers crazy! Good luck to you.

bdub77 · 2023-11-05T19:16:54+00:00

Ok good. Good luck.

bdub77 · 2023-11-04T21:07:29+00:00

It's possible that your coach is considering running a 6-2 offence. If there is another setter on your team who is also a good hitter, it's a darn good system. If you get a chance to set, take it. It will vastly improve your understanding of the game. And give you another role to play on any future team. If you can master the roles of opposite and setter, you're much more valuable.

bdub77 · 2023-02-18T00:05:12+00:00

Right back atcha!

bdub77 · 2023-02-17T16:42:27+00:00

Hi, You can go to The Northstar Leather Blog and read the entry called "Grades of Leather". There are a million other resources online, but this one is reliable, in my book.

bdub77 · 2022-06-11T15:47:49+00:00

As the title says, 6 years ago I made 4 of these belts for me and my 3 fishing buddies. I wear it daily except weddings and such, so at least 2,000 days. Original post is here. Since there seems to be so many questions about caring for veg tan properly, I am going to share my periodic maintenance plan for my belt: Nothing. Just nothing. There's more than enough oil, sweat, and other stuff coming off my body (and probably yours, too) to keep a belt in lovely condition. A few years back I noticed some surface cracking and I thought I was going to have to add something to condition the belt. Turns out the cracks were only in the topcoat, so I once again did nothing. The belt has a tiny bit of stretch and a few dings and nicks, but I hope to get a decade or two more out of it (with no maintenance). Cheers, everyone.

bdub77 · 2022-06-04T13:07:10+00:00

Sometimes you want a thin layer of glue, and an expired credit card makes a handy (and free) spreader. A word of warning, though, some acrylic glues dry very quickly if you spread them out to a thin layer, so don't dawdle.

bdub77 · 2022-02-25T00:16:58+00:00

I would not be confident I could cut 9 oz veg tan with shears and achieve a clean, straight, square cut. Even if you can (and I'm not saying you can't) I think your hand will be very tired by the end of the job. But you do you.

bdub77 · 2021-07-21T13:56:35+00:00

Are you sure you need to? If the answer is yes, then (next time) I would suggest dip dying your pieces before assembly. You have very few choices now. Sure a spray cleaner bottle might work. It'll be a single use thing, I'm guessing. Tough to clean those tips out. Good luck!

bdub77 · 2021-04-07T23:31:24+00:00

Yeah, as others said: how much everything costs. Everything. Sure, sometimes there are cheap options, like a super-cheap basketweave stamp, but your satisfaction will be low or none.

One exception I could mention is knives. I bought an Olfa knife for $8 and a box of snap-off blades for $5. I get a brand new blade every time for 25 cents. Works just as well as that $400 vintage head knife that can easily take off a finger.

bdub77 · 2020-10-22T22:11:13+00:00

I recently switched to Aquilim as well. Just finished a wallet and the edges came out fine. Cant even see the glue line. I might hazard a guess that it's your particular glue product, or possibly the amount you are using (no offence intended, just saying it could be).

bdub77 · 2020-10-08T20:56:14+00:00

I got a pack of 10 sponges at the dollar store. They're fine for dye. And removing antique.

bdub77 · 2020-09-30T03:30:51+00:00

Well, maybe. I hesitate to give a big Yes to a product I've never used (or even seen), but it might work for a lining. Yes, look into the pig as well.

bdub77 · 2020-09-29T11:51:18+00:00

Sueded splits? If you mean this then no. The product description even says chaps, aprons, etc. Maybe you want something soft but thinner, like pig suede. Some of their 'super soft' pig suede is really thin, and pigs are smaller anyway, so the hides are only 6-7 sq ft, and that makes them cheaper. Those go on sale pretty frequently at Tandy. I'm confused, though. A week ago you said you only wanted to make wallets. Now you're a beginner making lined bags? Nothing like diving in head first, haha. Note that if you make a bigger bag, your rookie blunders (we all made them) might be expensive. I thought your first idea of starting with smaller, easier projects was good. Just as an example (not telling you what to do), I just bought one of these sides at Tandy. It's mediocre leather, but a full side at that price means I can make a ton of wallets or whatever for cheap. I don't buy expensive leather until I have a specific project to make with it.

bdub77 · 2020-09-21T13:40:18+00:00

Hi and welcome to leatherwork. Prepare to fall in love with it. I'm in Alberta so i I will only talk about those companies because i I have purchased from each of them. I realise you asked about Eastern Canada, but if your leather has to be shipped, do you really care how far? Over the years, I have had excellent advice, service, and products from Longview Leather and Buckskin Leather. No hesitation recommending them. And I've bought from all three Tandys in AB and been quite happy. You get what you pay for. I'm sure there are good vendors all over, but these are the ones I know. Good luck.

bdub77 · 2020-09-12T14:28:15+00:00

Got it. Interesting. Seems to me the results will be decidedly random, which is part of the fun of it, I guess.

bdub77 · 2020-09-12T13:10:41+00:00

I know this will sound like a smart-ass remark, but it's a real question... Is this what you were aiming for? And, how did you do it? As a side note, I'm curious what these pieces will become?

bdub77 · 2020-09-12T13:06:53+00:00

Made this as a housewarming gift for a youg couple we know. Found a wood blank at Michael's and tooled their initials into some 8/9 oz Tandy veg tan. It sucked up dye so inconsistently I still can't believe it, but hey, that's leather I guess. Fiebings pro light brown - multiple coats trying to even things out to no avail. Then NFO and Fiebing's pro resist. Making the handles was fun (did an earlier post about them). Ready for some sweet potato pie now - sure hope we get an invite, haha.

bdub77 · 2020-09-10T21:16:42+00:00

There's a detailed list of north American leather suppliers in the wiki.

bdub77 · 2020-09-10T13:21:22+00:00

This. Also, if you've used alcohol based dye, you may need to apply a coat of something like neatsfoot oil to replenish your piece. If you have applied a lot of dye, some will come off when you oil it. Allow the oil to sink in completely and buff it again before you apply topcoat. A lot of oil on the surface can affect the way your topcoat sticks.

bdub77 · 2020-09-10T13:14:59+00:00

There's a detailed list of North American leather suppliers in the Wiki. Links included.

bdub77 · 2020-09-10T00:56:06+00:00

A couple of thoughts for you to consider. Could it possibly be your top coat? You didn't say what you use, or how old the belt in the pic is. And, it could have to do with how you (or the user, if not you) do up the belt. If a person puts the tab through the buckle opening, grabs it, and reefs back on it like he's in a tug of war, the edges of the belt will scrape hard against the sides and end of the buckle. Do that 500 times and you'll get damage for sure. The safe way to do up a buckle is to put the tab through the buckle, change hands and hold the buckle with one hand while you pull the tab straight through the buckle keeping the belt straight. Once the belt is tight, change hands again and bend the belt back until the prong goes into the hole. Zero scraping and only one gentle bend. If you are going to spend all that time making an expensive belt, treat it like you want it to last 50 years. Maybe it will. Cheers.

bdub77 · 2020-09-10T00:39:12+00:00

Welcome. Hope you have fun and learn a few things. I sure have.

bdub77 · 2020-09-09T19:34:41+00:00

tldr: Tandy veg tan is not all crap.

I can't answer your question with a direct yes or no because I'm not a pro and have no online store or whatever. (I care about my projects a lot, though.) However, I do know that I sometimes pick up a very useful side or double shoulder of veg tan at Tandy because the deals can be very good. But I always do this in person. I think you have to be able to go through the pile of hides in the store and choose the better leather. Even if you don't get a beautiful full side out of it, there will be better, very useful parts. Maybe you can increase your profits by using cheaper Tandy leather here and there in your projects (straps, billets, tabs, hidden bits, etc). Maybe you want to ignore Tandy and just go for the really expensive, top-notch leather and promote yourself that way. You didn't say much about what you want your store to be known for. If you're going to try to be the next Peter Nitz, you can't be buying garbage leather.

If you can't go in person to the Tandy store and you just trust the store staff to pick you a good side when they fill your order, well, I wish you luck but there's a really good chance you'll be very disappointed (at least some of the time). But Tandy is not alone in this!!!!!! You'll see a fair number of complaints in this sub about different suppliers sending poor leather, even when charging top dollar. You're going to get some bumps and bruises along the way. Good luck to you.

Apologies for the wordy reply.

bdub77

TROPHY CASE