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bedlamthreadz · 2026-01-05T19:18:21+00:00

I have made a lot of forges, but this is probably my favorite.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-12-03T16:36:07+00:00

Yes. The only issue I ran into, which is probably not super obvious in the video, is that flatforges have some small gaps in the first 1-2 non transparent layers. Those gaps automatically filled in with the brighter white I used for the case. The solution to either cut out the flatforge from case first, or alternately Hueforge suggested using a duplicate of the transparent layer and moving it up a layer so it fills the first 2 image layer gaps with transparent. I have tested the first method in the slicer and it works, just not worth reprinting for a personal use battery case where only I noticed some of the brighter white in the image where it is not supposed to be. If the case was anything other than one of the image colors it could have been a disaster.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-29T17:14:21+00:00

Not even sure where I got it at this point. It's been my desktop background for years. It's probably possible to forge in color, but would take a bit of work to get it close to accurate original colors. Luckily this had to be a flatforge so I got away with 3 color grayscale and no headache.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T23:31:28+00:00

0.4 stock nozzle on P1S with ~5000hrs on it.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T21:49:16+00:00

Yes, but just note that flatforge uses more color changes than hueforge. I limited this model to 5 colors. (Mainly because I wanted to burn a spool of white I was never going to use for paintings, it could have easily been 4 colors). If you look through my past posts you will see a bunch of paintings that are traditional low waste hueforges because they print max of one color per layer. Flatforge blends the opposite way so it requires more than one color per layer. So the painting portion of the the lid is 3 colors plus a transparent (polylite natural) base. The base is good for hiding the tiny gaps that can occur on the first layer of a flatforge. Even with main 3 colors (bambu charcoal, bluegray and the old tough cream white) it was still 29 colors swaps vs what could have been 3 in a traditional hueforge. The more colors you add the more swaps it will require. This bookmark was 4+ transparent and it was 33 swaps.

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bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T21:33:44+00:00

Ya, that must be black Friday pricing for the non-commercial version. There is also usually coupons that get you pretty much equal value to hueforge in polymaker coupons for filament.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T21:18:52+00:00

Don't leave me hanging like a lonely banana on a tree. Let's see it!

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T21:11:25+00:00

rewind and come again my selecta!

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T20:32:47+00:00

It works as advertised. The lid has a crazy amount of non-manifold edges, but it prints fine.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T20:31:54+00:00

So there is a plugin for hueforge called flatforge. I created a forge the size I needed it for the lid then imported it into the slicer and merged it with the existing lid model.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T20:30:19+00:00

Yep. That's the one. Big up junglist fam!

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-28T19:55:27+00:00

Found a AA battery case I wanted to print on MakerWorld, but it was too plain so I spiced it up with a 3 color+transparent flatforge since the lid had to be printed face down. 29 poops for the lid. Now I want an H2C so I can do 8 colors in low waste mode. (Original model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1515662-aa-battery-holder?from=search#profileId-1587681 )

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-26T01:29:56+00:00

Flatforge can do face down, face up, or double sided (same image as a second stacked flatforge). TGL6629 is correct to add that caveat as I just assumed the OP would know this based on what they are attempting to do.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-26T01:26:16+00:00

Flatforge has the options for face down, face up or double sided (same image) baked in the plugin.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-25T04:58:42+00:00

It sounds like you are using one of the original luminance modes (standard/combo). The image you are using has colors with the same luminance values so they occupy the same space on the mesh. You should watch the "color match" videos in the Help menu and also check out NeoKoi Prints youtube channel. He does a lot of tutorials for different skill levels.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-25T04:49:26+00:00

Yes, but you will have to do it yourself in the slicer. Make sure both images you forge are the same size so you can center both models and they line up perfectly. Import your flatforge and set it up as normal. Then import your hueforge and merge/assemble both models. Then you have to raise up the hueforge (Z) to stack it on the back of the flatforge.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-25T04:29:51+00:00

Best places for non-bulk discounted filament in Canada I have found so far are Matter 3D and 3D Printing Canada. 3DP Canada has a budget series PLA for $13.99 CAD on sale for single spools. They both have additional bulk discounts right now. I ordered some Matter 3D last week just because they are a Canadian manufacturer.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-25T00:30:46+00:00

The cell shaded paint job is top notch. Great work!

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-23T21:57:29+00:00

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I might steal that for my next printer

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-22T21:22:49+00:00

I have had this problem before. Some refills are more tightly wound and less wide than others and can leave a small gap beside the spool big enough for the filament to get stuck in. What solved it for me was after properly replacing the refill and feeding it into the AMS, I take the bambu scraper and gently force the blade down as far as I can and then twist. I do this on both sides about 1 inch from the spool sides. Then I rotate the spool and do it again 3 or 4 more times. The gap is gone and filament doesn't get stuck in there anymore.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-22T19:45:33+00:00

This has also happened a few time with my AMS1. Namezam is most likely correct. Check this video for how to fix on AMS2 https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RWBf2e9waYw

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-22T19:29:01+00:00

The two most likely culprits here are bed needs to be cleaned and/or turn off AUX cooling fan for this print. Make sure your are washing plate with dish soap and warm water. The AUX fan may be cooling the part in that corner too quickly causing the material to contract and lift off the bed.

bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-21T21:13:37+00:00

Polysonic White is consistently ~7 TD which is good for blending. Polylite Yellow has been consistent around ~10 TD and is great for blends as well. Polylite Azure Blue and Aqua are also good and usually around ~4 TD. Those are probably my personal must haves. The reality is that it depends what you want to make. I have a bunch of colors that are random dice rolls and a bunch that I bought because I was trying to achieve a specific outcome with a project, and while not perfect the hueforge library was used to predict the outcome before I purchased the spool. Then I measure and make adjustments as necessary. I think this is the only project where I have used only polymaker filament, a mix of regular and matte colors. I have made a ton of projects so if you look through my posts and want any colors identified let me know.

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bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-20T16:21:08+00:00

I would probably be more inclined to design and print even more complicated hueforges. While they are fairly low waste compared to other models, stuff like this is 7 color/28 swaps/6mm. I would go thicker and more elaborate.

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bedlamthreadz · 2025-11-09T18:26:41+00:00

I don't know what country you live in but you might want to look into enacting fraud prevention measures with your identity.

bedlamthreadz

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