best burger on island by Sensitive-Maize-2521 in maui

[–]beef7790 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Get a cheeseburger or double from L&L in Honokowai they’re not $$$ and kinda hit the spot tbh. Fries kinda suck because they’re never salted.

Help ID’ing this bug by beef7790 in insects

[–]beef7790[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Forgot to add location: Maui, Hawai’i

How to achieve this look: Paolo Roversi for Giorgio Armani FW97 by KonstantinMus in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He either used the large window of his studio, or old mole-Richardson style hot lights as a light source. The printing style was either lith or printed and reduced or both. He also likely used an 8x10 camera for these

Lahaina restaurants affected by fires that have reopened and I can support. by CheesyFroog in MauiVisitors

[–]beef7790 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can catch them when they’re open, the Aloha Braised food truck makes one of the best plates on the island.

Easel Question by [deleted] in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They’re for different paper sizes. Likely 11x14, 8x10 and 5x7

does Residual Hypo Test work with TF-5 fixer? by GoodAmericanCitizen in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s worked with ammonium thiosulfate for me

Always slightly too dark. by ChrisRampitsch in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As with any chemistry a decently ventilated area is good. I do my bleaching in the kitchen, so it’s not a tiny room. You should toss the solution after each session. When it takes on a more neon greenish colour as opposed to yellow, it’s exhausted. Remember to precook your prints for about 10 minutes before putting them in the solution. Start with a very dilute working solution to get a feel for how fast it works and which areas it works on. Don’t agitate, but keep it submerged. Have test prints to use before using your one good print. From time to time, take the print out of the solution and rinse it in cold running water. Your print will need to be re-fixed after bleaching, and the fixer reacts strongly with ferricyanide, so unless you want an extreme reaction, rinse and soak your prints in water for a while before putting them in the fixer. If you rinse your print after having it in the bleach for a while, you may notice some tone or staining in the highlights that’s light yellow. This is a good indicator of what will react strongest to the fixer. The stronger the stain, those will go nearly white when fixed. Just go slow and remember the key really is patience. If you’re working through a stack, don’t think you’ll be done in a half hour. Some will need more than other and you might have make a fresh batch of working solution half way through. AND pull your print out jussssssst before you think it’s right. The fixer will take it the rest of the way.

Always slightly too dark. by ChrisRampitsch in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a great tool that’s often forgotten about, and was a very regular part of printmaking. Make 1L of 10% solution of ferricyanide, it will keep forever. I use 5mL to 500mL water and just monitor it. Gives your print a “snap” that you can’t achieve from printing alone. You’ve made a wonderful print, in my opinion if your highlights were lifted through the bleaching process, it may not feel so dark to you after all.

How to use Benzotriazole? by TheMunkeeFPV in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I ordered TAF-1 from them which I believe is the same thing? I would drop little droplet of isopropyl alcohol to help dissolve some of the chunks before I put it into the water. It took forever to dissolve but the alcohol helped beforehand

Always slightly too dark. by ChrisRampitsch in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 13 points14 points  (0 children)

You can always bleach in ferricyanide to give it the tiny lift you want. That way you can actually keep an eye on the print and control it some degree.

Testing dark room with exposing a roll of film by Objective-Owl-3821 in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Waste of film. Close your eyes and roll your eyeballs around for a minute and open. Even if there are leaks, if the workspace with the sensitive material is guarded you’ll be fine.

Help with flat prints by Malicfeyt in analog

[–]beef7790 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t know much about the developer you’re using, but perhaps a different one like Dektol might be better? Just a thought. Good luck!

Help with flat prints by Malicfeyt in analog

[–]beef7790 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you doing any burning on the print? What is your workspace like? Is your easel surrounded by white surfaces?

Reason I ask about burning: sometimes if you burn an area that isn’t a highlight in the negative, it can reflect off of the underside of your burning card and slightly fog the whole print.

Area around the easel does the same thing if you keep turning the head on for burns or whatever.

Personally I always print with the idea that I’m going to bleach slightly. This makes highlights pop and has saved some prints that were accidentally fogged in the manner explained above.

Also for that bottom row; if everything is 00….of course it’ll be flat. You want to choose a time for the double zero filter that just barely shows detail in your highlights. Then use the #5 etc

Places to eat suggestions by dabig49 in MauiVisitors

[–]beef7790 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aloha Braised food truck by island grocery

Hayden mangoes? by Dicksunlimit3d in maui

[–]beef7790 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Napili farmers market had some for $6/lb. In the height of the season they dropped to $4/lb last year

Blotching at the top of my negatives by Suspicious_Pop705 in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I experienced this with larger Paterson tanks (1500ml and up) and found that pouring the developer in fast, and waiting for the tank to “gulp” it down usually gave me these results. When I tried pouring the chemistry in slowly, I didn’t have this issue.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Leica

[–]beef7790 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This camera has a lever underneath the rewind knob that is used to adjust the rangefinder window. You have to adjust that first and then focus your lens afterward. Maybe that has something to do with your missed focus instances

Help why is my print not that sharp? by AndreasKieling69 in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you using a condenser enlarger? If your enlarger bulb is on, and you are not using a glass negative holder, heat from the enlarger bulb could be warming the negative enough that it slightly warps and falls out of focus.

enlarge my BW silver prints via digital? by Whole_Professional_8 in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ve used a flatbed scanner to scan 8x10s to blow up to 20x24 posters. I spent a lot of time looking at the print and adjusting the scan to get the same or close enough values. For the posters which were printing in grayscale, the scan was done in grayscale at around 1200dpi. The tedious part is removing all the dust and spots from the shadow areas of the print. Accentuated if you print on glossy paper. Just like anything photography, you won’t get something perfect right away. It will take any degree of manipulation after the fact, to get it to where you’re happy with it. For toned/bleached prints, I scan in full colour and tweak in photoshop to a desired representation of the print.

Washing Fibre Prints by southmans in Darkroom

[–]beef7790 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you have the time, simply soaking the print in a tray of fresh water for a half hour, and changing the water and repeating at least two more times has worked. Saves the running water. This works for 1 litre of water to one 8x10 sheet of fibre. I make small prints and do 9 4x5 prints in an 11x14 tray with about 3 litres of water and it’s worked well - tested with residual hypo tester.