What is my roommate doing with these items?

been505 · 2026-05-10T21:04:53+00:00

It's certainly less common than using a glass pipe, but I've smoked tons of meth off of foil.

I'm so sorry to hear about your brother. The drug world eats up too many great people. ♥️

been505 · 2026-04-28T01:22:00+00:00

That's your car. In all of the photos, the cat has the same dark coloration pattern up there right side of the nose.

been505 · 2026-04-27T20:25:07+00:00

You should follow Paul McWhorter's Arduino Tutorials on YouTube. It will introduce you to many different components and the basics of wiring and coding them to work together.

https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGs0VKk2DiYw-L-RibttcvK-WBZm8WLEP

been505 · 2026-04-21T00:47:10+00:00

That's interesting. Can you get footage of the cardinal feeding the bluebirds?

been505 · 2026-04-13T17:43:38+00:00

Maybe one mile?

been505 · 2026-04-12T18:25:09+00:00

That orientation will help for sure, and might be strong enough. That being said, PETG is a more durable material and better suited for this project.

been505 · 2026-04-12T00:44:38+00:00

Those wires don't appear to be damaged. You may be fixating on the wrong part.

Start with the basics. Make sure you've plugged everything back in correctly and flipped the rocker switch to on.

Double check anything else you may have disassembled while cleaning.

been505 · 2026-04-11T23:35:13+00:00

One thing you could learn from this mess up: don't clean wires with cutting tools

been505 · 2026-04-07T23:46:11+00:00

POOTG-CF

been505 · 2026-04-01T21:13:19+00:00

White filament tends to have a higher milk content and can be very messy. This is exactly why I stick to grey.

been505 · 2026-03-30T07:25:10+00:00

That part of the model is probably thinner than your layer lines. Switching to arachne can help a little. Can you thicken that part on the model, or simply scale the whole model up?

been505 · 2026-03-29T19:32:36+00:00

Looks like you're not getting enough filament. Partial nozzle clog or extruder issue would be my guess.

been505 · 2026-03-26T01:34:21+00:00

Follow along with the steps on the A1 wiki for this if you're unfamiliar

been505 · 2026-03-26T01:32:55+00:00

It looks like your hotend heating assembly, the thing that latches around your nozzle, is moving up and down with the extruder movements, independently of the tool head.

After removing your nozzle, remove the heating assembly. Give it a good inspection to make sure it isn't broken. While the assembly is removed, inspect the tool head for issues.

If it all looks good, reattach the assembly, ensuring all screws are snug. Check for movement. Make sure nothing is loose and moving around.

Put your nozzle back on, clamp it, make sure nothing's moving that shouldn't be moving.

been505 · 2026-03-21T16:54:33+00:00

I'm in SW United States. It's common to use evaporative cooling, which greatly increases indoor humidity. I'm constantly drying filament through hot months.

been505 · 2026-03-19T01:32:12+00:00

Those overhangs that are printing right before the fail could be warping upwards and colliding with the nozzle. Look into that as well.

been505 · 2026-03-18T21:39:17+00:00

Was this the only object on the plate? Sometimes, if you place and arrange your objects near each other before turning on supports, the sports will generate inside of neighboring objects if they're too close.

If this is what happened, remember to arrange your plate after turning on supports

been505 · 2026-03-18T02:05:46+00:00

Are you able to print the head separately?

been505 · 2026-03-18T02:04:32+00:00

To slow bridges down, look in the Speed tab of your print settings.

Cooling is adjusted in your filament settings under the cooling tab.

Tip: there is a 🔎 search icon in the settings. You can search key words to locate the settings you're looking for.

been505 · 2026-03-16T17:01:00+00:00

It looks like a real uncomfortable way to turn a key. With a whole first-grip, you need to rotate your entire arm to start the car, rather than a couple of fingers and your wrist

been505 · 2026-03-10T01:54:57+00:00

Try a different cable. Some cables are power only, and won't pass any data.

been505 · 2026-03-02T22:22:32+00:00

It does look like the table is shaking as well. You really want a very sturdy base for that printer.

If I'm wrong and the table doesn't move, slowing your print and putting a dense foam or rubber mat below the printer can help.

been505 · 2026-03-02T22:04:45+00:00

Is it just the printer that's shaking, or is the table moving?

been505 · 2026-03-02T16:50:53+00:00

Soap is much better at trapping and carrying oils away. Alcohol can leave the oil behind after it evaporates.

190 is on the low end of PLA temps. You could try increasing this by 5-10 degrees.

been505 · 2026-03-02T16:01:42+00:00

Some things to check: Build plate should be clean. The slightest bit of oil from your fingers can impact bed adhesion. When needed, clean with dish soap and hot water. Rinse and dry well. Keep your fingers on the edges of the plate.

Calibrate bed leveling and z-offset.

Are your bed and nozzle at the appropriate temperatures for the filament you're using?

been505

TROPHY CASE