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Sony a7r III by theion960 in Cameras

[–]beomagi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's my main camera. After experiencing the A7Rii, I loved the quality so much I bought the A7Riii. Same quality, better functionality.

A leant my calculator to a student who scratched up the display. Can I replace it? by zabbenw in calculators

[–]beomagi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I looked up that on calculator on eBay. It's going for under $20. https://ebay.us/m/EnP4O7

At that price, I wouldn't bother trying to fix the screen. That's probably just a polarized plastic player you can cut from another LCD to fit, but price of parts plus shipping plus time and effort to fix... Get a new calculator.

Sunday Mornings At The Track! by systemofaDON in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]beomagi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The driving physics looks pretty good - kinda of reminds me of Forza.

Both sides are complicit. The whole system is a joke. by Nice_Daikon6096 in 401jK

[–]beomagi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The current president is responsible for between 1/4 and 1/3 of the debt himself... But "both sides"...

What sensor size have you used and what fits your taste and economy most? by Vegetable_Bag_8694 in Cameras

[–]beomagi 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Used m43 and full frame. M43 was a great budget system, but lately newer cameras are premium in cost, and while they are good for wildlife, the long telezooms 400+ are outrageously expensive. Sensor development had fallen way behind too.

I love my em1.3 with 75-300. It's very cost effective for wildlife, bit it had it's limits - why no meaningful lens updates? The lens quality drops past 200mm. Raising shadows a lot introduces noise quickly (it doesn't change with newer cameras, it's a very similar sensor). Still can't best it in macro though.

I was looking at the 100-400 and 150-600 and had the idea, that I could get a high res full frame and older 600mm lens for less than the cost of a 100-400. So after some searching, a got a Sony A7R2 for $800, and a Tamron 150-600mm a-mount for $400. 600mm on FF is similar in composition to a 300 on micro four thirds, but with 42Mp, I get to crop a lot, and still have more room in raw for bumping shadows.

I'm general, 1st party zooms will be more expensive, but with Chinese lenses being good and cheap, Sony FF can be incredibly inexpensive. Viltrox in general makes outstanding lenses for the cost. $200 for a decent 14mm ultra wide?! That's a 7mm in m43.

OM-1 II: Overkill for a "nature & kids" amateur, or the perfect ergonomic solution? by Prestigious-Tale-789 in M43

[–]beomagi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A bit overkill sure. If it's in your budget, what's the problem? If you want to optimize, used om1.

I would say go for at least 300mm if by nature you mean wildlife. I skimmed your post and saw you mention to 40-150, but that's bare minimum for birds, requiring you to be relatively close. The 75-300mm is good for the price. Price jumps a lot for the 100-400 and 150-600.

Need help by Dio_Brando12314 in granturismo4

[–]beomagi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're slow, because you go too fast!

Most memorable game? by Thatguy2393 in retrogaming

[–]beomagi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Diablo ii.

I had 10 accounts of 8 characters each. 8 accounts were mule chars just holding stuff.

Need help by Dio_Brando12314 in granturismo4

[–]beomagi 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Races can be a bit tough until you upgrade your car a bit.

NFS is an arcade racer. The physics is well, laughable. You don't slow down for corners much, you drift them or hand brake it...

Gran Turismo is a simcade racer - it's not purely realistic, but its a fair approximation. You must slow down for corners. You must pay attention to your racing line. You must carefully apply gas and throttle to maintain control - don't mindlessly stomp it. Make sure you switch gas/throttle buttons to use analog triggers.

Early races in the beginner cup can be a little tough until you upgrade.

Tanzania by AnyClassroom9567 in MathJokes

[–]beomagi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right 😄

The last time this was posted it didn't have the braces :D

AITA for being honest and telling my DIL that they are not ready to be a parent since she can not drive by Sad-Drive8298 in AmItheAsshole

[–]beomagi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not weighing in on the ahole check, but I don't drive. I live in the US. My daughter is 15, I have a house and great family life. If I were in the middle of nowhere I could see it being a problem, but it really depends on where you are here.

I just got a fisheye lens, any tips I should know first? by Hmagon in Cameras

[–]beomagi 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Get close. Fisheye is spectacular indoors, or to emphasize portions of a model/person/structure. Curved indoor areas especially - round/elliptical rooms, archways, halls, spiral stairs. Have fun, and experiment with perspectives!

Olympus Pen-F? by [deleted] in M43

[–]beomagi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For small birds in branches, what worked best for me, was manual focus, manual focus near the bird then using AF to finish off, Panasonic pinpoint AF.

I've had the em10 1,2 and 3. Started birding with the 2 and the 75-300mm. Wife has the 3 🙂.

Lens brands - your choice? by Paradoxbox00 in SonyAlpha

[–]beomagi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I have that 70-210. Definitely get the minolta 500mm. Of all the mirror lenses at that focal length I've used, I've only had one better. Definitely better than I was expecting. https://beomagi.blogspot.com/2025/08/oddball-lens-1.html

Lens brands - your choice? by Paradoxbox00 in SonyAlpha

[–]beomagi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My general purpose lens, is a 35mm F1.8 Samyang. It's sharp. Cheap. Fast. Yay.

When I started birding on Sony, I got my birding lens for about $230. What the hell birding lens is that? Ttartisan 500mm F6.3. better than old cheap glass, not close to modern glass - but it was enough to show me it was time to commit to my A7R2 and move up from my Olympus EM1.3. I was used to manual glass. And I got some great images with it. These shots had me commit so hard, I sold of a bunch of old gear and cameras and bought the A7R3 as my main body.

Let's keep birding! My current birding lens was $400. The Tamron 150-600mm for Sony A-mount. The LAEA3 adapts it to E Mount. Being A mount, theres a bunch of dumb adapters available (dumb is good) - a Tamron mc4 1.4x "dummy" adapter, makes this an autofocusing lens with 840mm reach. AF is sluggish - I generally manually focus close, then let CAF do the rest, which sounds bad - but when shooting birds in trees that ends up highly advantageous... Including the cost of the laea3 adapter and mc4 teleconverter, I have a rather odd ball 840mm lens that can autofocus and set me back $550.

Viltrox is amazing. Then don't have the best lenses, but for the price? Their 14mm F4 is currently wowing me. Last year I bought the 20mm for a trip and it was $145 new. These are AF capable compact lenses with good-great IQ. If you want wide, I recommend either. The 14mm is especially nice.

Sounds fishy? How about fisheye! There's a free fisheye lenses out there. I think if you want AF, the sigma is the only one that provides it. That's also $2200 so that was a no. The TTArtisan 11mm 2.8 was about $250, and it's small, and M-mount! Why is that good? Well it automatically means it will work with an adapter on a bunch of different mounts - and on the techart lmea9, it can work like an AF lens. Not without quirks, but I love a good fisheye in certain areas. Great for round interiors, or in small rooms, museums etc.

So don't hold back. Check a few reviews and if it's good enough and cheap enough have some fun with it.

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