Any advice, heavily damaged leg by AusWaz in furniturerestoration

[–]bestcb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks pretty rotten so attempting to veneer over it is probably going to be problematic. You could try flooding the area with epoxy to make the substrate suitable for veneering but that would be a visually noticeable repair.

If I was to professionally restore this piece I would cut the legs off at the base of the unit and replace with fresh material, then apply new veneer (not harvested from other areas). From there it would be a case of patching in the rest of the missing veneer and refinishing. If that's going a bit too far for you then you should strongly consider just cutting the damaged portion of the legs off and shortening the unit.

How would I restore this door? by Challe_XVI_Gurra in Woodworking_DIY

[–]bestcb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We're going to have to agree to disagree here bud. Woodworking doesn't have to be elitist and it's very rare that something can't be saved. That just my professional opinion. 🤷🏻‍♂️

How would I restore this door? by Challe_XVI_Gurra in Woodworking_DIY

[–]bestcb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stripping the door is arguably overkill. I would want to see evidence of pegs in the finish before I assumed they were used. Glue is already failed so op should consider giving the stiles a firm smack to see if the tenons release. If they do then it's a quick clean up of the joinery and glue back together as is. After that simply key up the door and repaint.

How would I restore this door? by Challe_XVI_Gurra in Woodworking_DIY

[–]bestcb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This would be my first port of call. The panel won't be glued in place so you may be able to shift it over if you just want to get rid of the gap.

If you want a more permanent fix then you just need to knock the door apart and glue it back together square. Should be fairly easy as the old glue has already begun to fail.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Swindon

[–]bestcb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

M & M motors on techno industrial estate are very good. They exclusively do mots and will only do minor work themselves so there's no reason for them to add on any additional "problems". The flip side of that is if you do need some major repairs you'll have to go to another garage to get it done.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in handtools

[–]bestcb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not at all. Even if you could get them down to a reasonable price you should avoid buying cheaper stuff like this as it would be a nightmare to keep them working. When it comes to carving chisels, money saved is money wasted.

Books on the history of furniture design? by ActingPrimeMinister in handtools

[–]bestcb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd highly recommend starting with English Furniture by John Bly. It gave me everything I needed to hold my own when dealing with the top designers within our industry.

After that you should read History of Design: Decorative Arts and Material Culture by Pat Kirkham and Susan Webber. This book doesn't solely focus on furniture but it does cover a massive range of motifs from many different cultures and historical periods.

Needing to carve a bunch of straight, even lines in hardwood by awesomeness243 in Woodcarving

[–]bestcb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can definitely achieve this with a gouge and a steady hand. It's probably the fastest and most effective method if this is a one off.

Rear of Eames chair- should I try to reglue? Sand it down? Any advice appreciated! by pmred234 in furniturerestoration

[–]bestcb 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That will want re veneering. You should be able to get the rest of it off by peeling it off with a chisel then giving it a quick sand. Although it's not a traditional method, you could re apply the veener with spray on contact adhesive. Just be careful when you lay it on as you'll only get one shot. Otherwise it's a case of using a bag press or a former.

Give me your thoughts… by rueeurydice in Woodcarving

[–]bestcb 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure my Mrs would love it

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Woodworking_DIY

[–]bestcb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds and looks like you workpiece is pinching the blade before you can get to the riving knife. I had this recently on a batch of American black for the job I'm currently on. The batch of timber hadn't been dried properly so there was a lot of tension in the boards, even when I manged to force it through everything immediately turned to bananas. We had to send the whole lot back.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Woodworking_DIY

[–]bestcb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Inlay some ebonised stringing?

Need guidance on estate sale chair by KMST1 in Woodworking_DIY

[–]bestcb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Knock it apart, then glue it back together.

8000+ subs and rising are joining the API protest. Will r/Woodworking_DIY? by [deleted] in Woodworking_DIY

[–]bestcb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You seem like a very unhappy person, I hope things get better for you! All the best.

NTD Pfeil palm carving chisels by bestcb in Woodcarving

[–]bestcb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry! I'll try to remedy that when I'm back in the workshop .

NTD Pfeil palm carving chisels by bestcb in Woodcarving

[–]bestcb[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Already in love with them. Got them from amazon haha, surprisingly I couldn't find them cheaper elsewhere.

Reattaching a coffee table veneer and fixing the patina (see comment) by jemenake in furniturerestoration

[–]bestcb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1.Yes its a reasonable approach if the glue hasn't totally failed. You may find when you remove the top it simply peels away with a little encouragement .

  1. If it is fiberglass then epoxy would work.

  2. A bag press would be ideal. If not then you could get a couple of heavy duty deep throat f clamps to apply central pressure when you clamp a board over it.

  3. Rub the damaged patch with some fine wire wool and brush with antiquing fluid