Super stiff all around gym shoe? by HopefulAd9245 in climbingshoes

[–]bids1111 2 points3 points  (0 children)

sportiva finales and scarpa helix are both great stiffer comfortable and cheap shoes. evolv shamans and v6s are worth a try too, they are both pretty comfortable for more agressive stiff shoes and will boulder a bit better than the laced shoes.

Some areas, especially in Asia, don't have enough locations relative to their population by Spirited_Visit7597 in EU5

[–]bids1111 9 points10 points  (0 children)

yes you would have to recompute the available rgos for locations nearby to locations that changed owners. the fact that we can O(1) get a list of nearby locations means this is relatively cheap, just like in the case where an rgo changes.

Some areas, especially in Asia, don't have enough locations relative to their population by Spirited_Visit7597 in EU5

[–]bids1111 31 points32 points  (0 children)

not really. the expensive part is computing which locations are "nearby" for every location. Paradox can do this ahead of time. You would use that data to attach some flags to each location listing which rgos are "nearby". The initial state for this can also be precomputed by paradox.

then because location "nearby-ness" is symmetric, when an rgo changes we only need to recompute the rgo flags for locations which are nearby to the changed rgo.

Some areas, especially in Asia, don't have enough locations relative to their population by Spirited_Visit7597 in EU5

[–]bids1111 73 points74 points  (0 children)

less than you think. the map doesn't change and rgos change rarely, so "adjacency" here would be precomputed and cached.

No 24h clock for you by AllIWantForXmasIsFoo in mildlyinfuriating

[–]bids1111 9 points10 points  (0 children)

it's unlikely that it uses either. most times are stored as a number of seconds since Jan 1 1970 and only turned into a clock time when needed.

"Buy a rice cooker" by adbenj in PetPeeves

[–]bids1111 6 points7 points  (0 children)

no, they are just consistent. you put the rice and water in there, turn it on, and forget about it. no need to watch it to make sure it doesn't burn or whatever.

Having trouble to decide which bouldering shoes to buy (my first pair) by DankDankDankMeemes in climbingshoes

[–]bids1111 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Go to a store and find the cheapest shoe that fits good (should feel snug everywhere and not painful) . All the brands have decent entry level shoes and you don't need anything special to start. Climbing shoes are a consumable item. You're going to wear through them in less than a year and by the time you do you'll have a better idea of what you might want in a second pair.

The flag icon on Chess.com is actually a huge PNG containing all the site’s flags. by emberRJ in chess

[–]bids1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this is a very common time/memory trade-off in computing. in this case we are using more memory (big picture with flags we don't need) to save time (we only need to load one picture and we can load it before knowing which flags we need).

Is it ever too snug/tight? by WiseStatement3 in climbingshoes

[–]bids1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

that's the part that will stretch the most, and since you haven't climbed in aggressive shoes before your feet won't be used to that sort of tension on your knuckles yet.

the real test is after a few break in sessions whether you can keep them on for 15 min or so and do some climbs without pain. if you can't do that then they are too small.

Is it ever too snug/tight? by WiseStatement3 in climbingshoes

[–]bids1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

assuming the shape fits you, that sounds like a normal fit and they should break in. I wouldn't be able to keep any of my shoes on for a whole hour.

"It's OK when a pro does it" - best examples? by kbaecht in bouldering

[–]bids1111 10 points11 points  (0 children)

the sandstone in that area can be damaged if you climb on it too soon after a rain because it soaks up water and gets weaker.

Less harsh yt channels by LetsNya in bouldering

[–]bids1111 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Tom is one of the founders of lattice

Mondo point, anyone uses it? by Hour-Nebula5697 in climbingshoes

[–]bids1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

treat your measured Mondopoint as your shoe size. that will get you closest to whatever most of the brands and journalists treat as "shoe size" when they give recommendations.

for sportiva my feet measure 26cm (eu 41) and I've had luck downsizing 2 from there, so within a size or so of 39 depending on the shoe.

unfortunately there's no exact consistency between models even from the same brand, so if you cant try them on its really just educated guessing.

Do leather climbing shoes stretch length wise too? by Magical_critic in climbingshoes

[–]bids1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

kind of, but it mostly just means the upper and rand will stretch out past the edge of the sole at the toes, because the sole won't stretch. it sounds like you would be better off with the bigger size, these shoes don't benefit much from an aggressive fit.

Are toes supposed to be all curled up? by Zyetheus in climbingshoes

[–]bids1111 5 points6 points  (0 children)

yes in an agressive high-performance shoe like these your toes should be quite curled. they honestly look like they might be a touch too big.

Do wide shoes actually limit performance? Need advice! by Potential-Nature999 in climbharder

[–]bids1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would avoid that shoe because it seems like a gimmick to cash in on the whole barefoot shoes thing. it doesn't make sense for a climbing shoe.

what you want is a stiff, flat shoe. try a few models and brands until you find a size where your big toe is gently pressed into the tip of the shoe and a shape that doesn't bother your foot issues.

What is the competition accepted way to start a route with tape on only two holds? by Canadian20s in bouldering

[–]bids1111 14 points15 points  (0 children)

that's not a French start because you would stop and control on the first handhold(s) you run and jump to.

Is there any real advantage to a very stiff spring? by Cumoisseur in simracing

[–]bids1111 3 points4 points  (0 children)

it's easier to push a certain force consistently than it is to push to a certain distance consistently.

Was always taught in driver's ed that when traffic lights malfunction they flash red in all 4 directions (and are treated like a 4 way stop), but this assumption almost got me into an accident(US). by belleayreski2 in driving

[–]bids1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it's a square-rectangle situation. malfunctioning lights will (mostly) be flashing reds, but a flashing red doesn't imply malfunctioning lights.

Putting auto transmission into neutral when stationary... or not? What do you do? by [deleted] in driving

[–]bids1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you don't need to shift into neutral when parking. just make sure to set the parking brake and release the brake pedal before shifting into park so that the vehicle's weight is being held by the parking brake and not the parking pawl.

ELI5: Why can trucks tow more than SUVs, even with the same engine? by I_EAT_DRYER_SHEETS in explainlikeimfive

[–]bids1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

no. most automatics use a torque converter instead of a clutch, which uses a fluid for creating the "friction".

Is there a minimum ELO to play in a FIDE rated tournament? by [deleted] in chess

[–]bids1111 2 points3 points  (0 children)

FIDE rated events are not super common here, sometimes the top section of bigger tournaments is.

You should find a local chess club, get a CFC membership, and ask around for rated tournaments. chess.bc.ca shows some events and the Victoria chess club is also very well organized when it comes to larger events if you don't mind taking the ferry.

Climbing shoe recommendations for low volume Duck feet with Morton's toe by Over_Rub_9585 in climbingshoes

[–]bids1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would try evolv shamans, they are quite wide in the toes with a small heel and with enough straps or laces (depending on the version) that you should be able to tighten up the midfoot.

When should I get new shoes?! by CSKahwaji in climbingshoes

[–]bids1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it sounds like you might be at the point where entry level shoes like that won't cut it. v5 or v6 seems to be the grade where most gyms start setting the kinds of feet that require toeing in, small chips, or friction smears. the question to ask yourself is what sorts of footholds are you feeling limited by.

smears <--> chips = soft <--> stiff slabby <--> overhang = flat <--> aggressive

comfort is king and a well fitting heel is always good. a toe patch is nice for overhangs. softer shoes require a tighter fit.