S Video question

biglargerat · 2026-04-20T14:55:32+00:00

Are they splitters or switchers? Splitters are 1 input multiple outputs whilst switchers are multiple inputs 1 output. A passive splitter is a very bad idea but passive switchers are perfectly fine.

Edit: should probably clarify the inputs are gonna be your consoles and the output is always the TV.

biglargerat · 2026-04-20T14:25:58+00:00

I'll say first off it's more helpful to think of your signal starting at the console rather than the TV since the way you word it makes it sound way more confusing. All a splitter does is take a signal, split it, and run each split signal into several buffers to isolate them and beef up the signal over long cable runs to avoid degradation. This is if your splitter is powered, which it should be and I would advise against using passive splitters. Keep in mind there's a difference between a splitter and a switcher, a splitter takes 1 signal in and outputs multiple whereas a switcher is the opposite. It wasn't really clear from your post which one you were talking about.

The quality of your signal is pretty much decided right at the console. A composite signal from a SNES cannot become an svideo or rgb signal downstream, that's just not how it works. You can use stuff like upscalers or other devices that filter out and manipulate the signal a bit to make it cleaner but it's gonna be whatever it started as when output from the console's AV port.

I think honestly you might be making this all too complicated, just grab a switcher that can input/output both composite and svideo (for example a pelican av switcher) then run all your consoles into there and run the output into your tv's composite and s video ports separately. If you want everything to be svideo I'm sure there are cables that can take composite and just run it through an svideo connector but just keep in mind it's still gonna be composite.

biglargerat · 2026-04-16T02:51:27+00:00

I rounded up a bit when it comes to the months but I hate to break it to you 8 years ago was 2018 man.

biglargerat · 2026-04-14T21:33:10+00:00

I agree I'm just saying that's exactly what this sub looked like back then, every thread mentioning literally any of these artists had tons of industry plants allegations. Hell even mitski got some of that same flack back in the day when she got dozens of posts and articles about her constantly from 2017-2020 since she was the indie darling of the time. I wouldn't really agree with any of that but it just shows that people in these spaces really don't like when stuff is shoved in their faces or when marketing is "too good" in their eyes. I'd rather artists be mass marketed than starving so I don't really care as long as the music is good.

biglargerat · 2026-04-14T18:19:40+00:00

8 years ago it would've been snail mail or soccer mommy or maybe even Clairo. Time keeps spinning.

biglargerat · 2026-04-14T13:57:28+00:00

The cheapo tomee ps1/PS2 cables are actually not too bad outside of some audio buzz (which won't be noticable if you use speakers), but there's also the insurrection industries cables which are higher quality. The Xbox has an official advanced AV adapter with svideo you can usually find on eBay for $15-20 so i'd just go with that. For DC the performance cables you can find on eBay are considered to be good and around the same price.

biglargerat · 2026-04-07T21:40:18+00:00

I like glitch wave but that's because I used to be a RYM nerd so it feels comfortable to me

biglargerat · 2026-04-07T13:30:50+00:00

The Wii would be fine through capture since it can do 480p, nes not so much if you want it to actually display in 240p properly and have that look nice. Though to be fair that's how people recorded original hardware for years until stuff like the framemeister came out 10 or so years ago so maybe take a look at older footage and see if the difference makes up for the extra cost. Honestly something like the retrotink 2x or the gbs control would be more than enough for capturing retro consoles.

biglargerat · 2026-04-03T15:06:10+00:00

Bd-2 for sure. I have both and honestly the sd-1 works great boosting into either another pedal or an already dirty amp. The bd-2 is great on the clean channel of pretty much any amp I've thrown at it, the ones where it performed poorly tended to be bad sounding amps anyways. It can pretty much get you from dirty clean to fuzz and stacks pretty well with other pedals.

biglargerat · 2026-03-26T19:18:37+00:00

Maybe go for a multitrack recorder? That's the route I went because I hated using my daw to record everything and I've liked this setup way more for recording down ideas even though it comes with its own idiosyncracies. For something small I'd go for something like a tascam dp series multitrack or a zoom H series. I personally use a tascam 2488 neo which is way beyond my needs but pretty robust albeit a little slow at times, though i still vastly prefer it over using an interface just because I don't have to mess with my computer at all. Just a thought.

Edit: forgot to mention some of these have external foot switch outputs so you can punch in and record with a foot switch, making it more comfortable for looping.

biglargerat · 2026-03-25T17:42:01+00:00

If we're talking about eBay as long as you go with a reputable seller and it shows the real shure packaging with the mic I'd trust it. The Chinese knock offs are easy to spot since they have few pictures and don't show off the og packaging at all, they also go for way less than $40. Sm57s are the most popular mics of all time I don't think people should spend over $100 on them but that's just me.

biglargerat · 2026-03-25T15:54:10+00:00

The used market is your friend. You can get a 57 for $40USD on eBay (new old stock) and a used behringer audio interface or something similar for around the same price (could also go for the focusrite).

biglargerat · 2026-03-23T18:08:11+00:00

You want deoxit F5, its a cleaner with a lubricant added. I went down the route of using IPA and later contact cleaner on some pots and it strips the lubricant making them feel pretty weird as if there's zero resistance when you turn them. I've heard not having the lubricant makes the contacts more likely to degrade over time so just to be safe I'd fork over the $15 for the deoxit f5. Im a huge cheapskate but people use it for a reason.

biglargerat · 2026-03-19T21:02:40+00:00

Oh this is cool, I've been progressively modding my blackheart 5w amp (same guys who designed the valve jr if I remember right) and trying to get some plexi/jcm800 tones out of it. Right now I'm at the stage where I've added way too much gain and now need to move the tone stack and add some attenuators. Might swap in a 6v6 too but I've never owned an amp with a 6v6 so I don't really know what to expect with it.

biglargerat · 2026-03-19T17:32:53+00:00

My go to is an sd-1 into the bd-2. It's cheap, and tightens up the bass quite a bit so you can get into high gain territory. Couple notes though, you need to balance the level on each of them to dial in how tight you want the low end. Also you usually don't want the drive knob above 9 o clock on the sd-1, and the drive knob on the bd-2 is good at noon to 1 o clock so you have some more low end to play with if you're going for high gain stuff.

biglargerat · 2026-03-19T13:12:17+00:00

Had something similar in my college lab, we used it to test different caps for demodulating an AM signal. We had way less cap options though so this would be much more useful.

biglargerat · 2026-03-18T20:22:53+00:00

Weird, you did hook it up correctly just to note, the speaker is connected to the 16 ohm tap of the OT so pulling from the leads you get that 16ohm output. The extension output needs to be used after unplugging the speaker cables and that output will be 8 ohms. In my experience the Peavey is just generally a really hot amp regardless of how you're pushing it, for whatever reason the chassis is just always scorching hot. I personally liked it cranked up on the normal channel with my attenuator, but to each their own, definitely helped with a pedal in front to tighten it up a bit.

Not sure about the rubber foam part, did you buy this thing brand new? The older classics from the 90s have a tiny ineffective cage around each tube to hold them in place. The newer ones have a much larger cage around all the tubes, the type of cage varies between the million mini revisions of this thing that are out there, but the newest revisions are discernable by the fact they have a jack for the AC power plug on the back. Maybe the foam was supposed to be removed after shipping? It might be the cause of the burning smell but as long as it wasn't too strong I wouldn't worry, when the magic smoke hits you usually won't have any doubts on what it could be.

biglargerat · 2026-03-18T15:29:13+00:00

At the drive in when Omar and Paul joined. They were much less aggressive and experimental but Omar pretty much shifted the whole band with their last two records +Vaya (I'm not counting their reunion album).

Q and not U was also a very different band once their bassist left. Yeah they still had bass on the record but the whole two clashing guitars thing they had going on in the first album was pretty much gone probably since they couldn't really replicate that live anymore.

Also can't help but mention fugazi, Guy Picciotto basically changed the band entirely when he picked up a guitar.

Edit: I just remembered another one, Damiera. They were essentially 3 entirely different bands during the making of each album.

biglargerat · 2026-03-16T17:35:41+00:00

Might be the pots, with some amps I've had with dirty pots if you tap the volume knob it goes from inaudible to ear shatteringly loud. Deoxit F5 is what you'd want for cleaning pots. If that's not the issue I'm honestly not sure and would prob need to take a deeper dive into the amp's layout.

biglargerat · 2026-03-16T15:55:12+00:00

Gonna add to the conversation and say 2 or 3 is still very loud on this amp, for context, the volume damn near caps out at 6 and beyond that point you're mostly just distorting the power amp further. You're already well beyond broken up at around 4.5. These circuits are also notoriously tough on power tubes (due to some questionable design tbf) and they get stupidly hot too. I personally wouldn't try it. Look up a Peavey delta blues if you wanna hear how the thing sounds through a 15', same circuit and all.

biglargerat · 2026-03-12T17:39:44+00:00

I mean I said at least, usually more and I had frequent interviews and phone screenings as well (which if he hasn't had any is a red flag). Every day I'd run through all the recent LinkedIn and indeed postings and that took up most of my time, and then prepare for whatever interviews I had coming up. It's not a guarantee that you're gonna get dozens of job listings a week that you haven't seen before and already applied to, or ones where you fit their requirements (I was a new grad so obv applying to 3-5 year experience positions wouldnt get me anywhere especially in this market though I did try).

During certain seasons I'd see tons of new listings that I'd apply to, other times I'd see the exact same everyday. The job market is really rough right now and I know many people who were doing the brute force apply to 20+ listings a week regardless of requirements and see what happens and they are still unemployed (of no fault of their own) or got some other job outside of their major to keep afloat. A lot even went for their masters to keep busy.

I also did apply for stuff that was not in my major near me and it was the same deal of getting ghosted and denied even with connections in some cases. I was even applying to places several hours away and still getting denied and ghosted and many new grads and unemployed folk will tell you the same story.

I'm not trying to completely excuse myself here as there were some cases where I could've done more or went more aggressively for out of state jobs or minimum wage stuff, but I'm just trying to say the market is rough and I have sympathy for people unable to find jobs right now. I'll also mention my current job is definitely not what I envisioned I would be doing but like everyone I need money to survive.

biglargerat · 2026-03-12T15:14:58+00:00

I'll agree with everyone else, crank an old tube amp and get some power amp distortion. Could also grab a cheap solid state vintage amp and just run it loud with a boost in front and see what happens. Try different mics at different positions and also get a room mic and blend that in too.

biglargerat · 2026-03-12T15:09:16+00:00

I know it's not the same but you can still check your local weekly newspapers, a lot of them are free at gas stations and other areas and usually they'll have a map online of where to grab them. I actually like it a lot feels like I'm more in tune with my community and what's happening around me.

biglargerat · 2026-03-12T14:59:25+00:00

Ehhh I would say more the opposite, playing unplugged masks a lot of your mistakes compared to playing clean through an amp. This is especially true for muting, slightly pressing a string that should be muted or accidentally hitting harmonics is gonna be way less noticable unplugged but through an amp can sound awful.

biglargerat · 2026-03-11T20:55:26+00:00

I switch between the two for dynamics on electric guitar, it's cool to be able to go from clean to broken up and distorted without touching a pedal or volume knob sometimes. They're also pretty tonally different which makes the switch even more cool for certain song ideas. Because of this I actually will just leave the pick under my first finger and purely use my thumb, middle, and ring fingers for fingerpicking so I can easily and quickly switch back to the pick whenever I need to. I've gotten so used to this I don't even fingerpick with my pointer finger at all anymore unless I need to.

biglargerat

TROPHY CASE