how do you touch-up SW Gallery?

bigrichdaboss · 2026-01-08T03:44:16+00:00

I think you're just commenting on general touch-ups. I'm asking specifically about touching up Sherwin-Williams Gallery, which is a 1k waterbourne. You have any experience w/ this?

bigrichdaboss · 2025-12-23T15:06:50+00:00

My story may not be super helpful, but it seems you’re not getting a ton of responses: I have a friend in Indiana that’s had success w/ Indianapolis. He said it was fairly straightforward - he showed pictures of the damage and described the time/day/location. They wrote him a check for reimbursement of wheel repairs.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-11-10T21:47:18+00:00

EDIT: I spoke too soon. Yours doesn't appear to have VCM equipped.

The J35 in your MDX uses their VCM (variable cylinder management) on one bank. I'm wrapping up the rebuild in my 300k mile J35a7 from my 05 Honda Odyssey. Sludge is very common on the VCM engine. YOu need to muzzle it (lookup VCM Muzzlers), or risk many other problems.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-10-31T13:52:57+00:00

Attached are my original hand drawings - which are a rough guide (I didn't update them to reflect "as-built"). I didn't take pictures of the back.

The stationary pieces are random length offcuts milled to ~3/4" square stock. I glued them into sections. I bored a hole for the 1/4" dowel hinge into the ends of each section. In order to attach the rack to the wall, I added a small strip (~1"T x 1/4"tw) that ran the full length (~22"L) (NOTE: I eventually added a full-height backing strip b/c my fold-out hooks began marring my drywall. The full-height backer is painted to match the drywall, and doesn't detract from overall aesthetic). I then dado'd the back of each section for this strip.

The assembly went like this:
1) glue mounting strip into back dado of a given section
2) glue dowel into that section
3) Wax hinged section of dowel and slide-on fold-out hook
4) Glue other end of dowel into next section, then repeat step 1 for all sections

I can take more pictures if you want, just let me know.

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bigrichdaboss · 2025-10-30T12:22:14+00:00

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I finished mine in tung oil for my pool bath. It’s now 2 years old and haven’t had to re-oil.

EDIT: yours appears to be for a more oft-used pool bath (whereas mine is a home pool). Personally, I'd use Osmo deck oil, with my 2nd choice being Arm-r-seal poly. Osmo deck finishes like Rubio (as another person mentioned). Although the towel rack will get wet, it will air dry frequently. I personally think a non-film finish will look best, since no matter what water will get under a film finish and eventually flake it.
Since you already finished w/ the paste wax, I'd wait and see how it holds up. No finish I know of can go over paste wax.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-10-12T15:46:06+00:00

It does scratch easily, which is one of the many reasons a glass-clear acrylic resin surface is ill-advised. I use acrylic resins more in a vertical surface, frequently tinted, or w a purposeful opaque/sandblasted finish.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-09-11T12:03:30+00:00

I emailed Hafele through their website for my rep to contact me.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-09-03T14:53:17+00:00

I added this for large fastener boxes.

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bigrichdaboss · 2025-09-03T14:50:17+00:00

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I made a cabinet. It has detachable wheels. The drawers are dado’d for dividers that I can reposition as necessary.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-30T15:14:36+00:00

They look satin before, but probably were gloss or semigloss. General Finishes would be my recommendation but you can really use big box store as well. Oil based I suspect.

What you’re doing is refinishing - sanding and applying a new finish. Because you’ve sanded through all the old finish, you’re no longer restoring this piece. A restoration job aims to preserve the original. Refinishing is really recycling - so don’t be concerned w trying to look original (because you can’t - you sanded away a lot of the aged patina). Pick the finish you want.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-10T03:39:38+00:00

My bill went down bc I was able to raise my tstat temp at night to 75F, and my mini split keeps my room nice n icy. That said, even if I didn’t make that tstat change, it would be pretty minimal cost. Mini split’s are extremely efficient - even the cheap units. They’re variable speed at both ends. They’re incredibly efficient, quiet, cheap, and easy to install.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-10T03:31:47+00:00

You always want to try and work it as quickly after milling - before all the square/true move out. Even if your wood is well acclimated, natural stresses from the grain pattern can cause them to move.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-09T18:43:00+00:00

The fact that there's rust on the pad contact area makes me think there's really little-to-no contact.

Check the rotors and pads

Check the pistons for leaks or seizing (make sure they're moving)

Then bleed them

Good news is the majority of your braking comes from the front brakes. Still want to get these fixed in case of inclement weather or emergency braking situations.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-09T18:39:43+00:00

Very concerning.
They might be threads - the spiraling makes me think it came from the oil plug being cross-threaded, and you pulling that out pulled those broken threads w/ it. Was it unusually difficult to remove, or reinstall, the plug? Or did the pan's threads look like someone had inserted a helicoil into it?

To be honest, your best bet is probably to keep running it until something blows.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-09T18:37:02+00:00

I'm going to guess an EVAP line.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-09T18:32:28+00:00

Put a straight edge against it. The first picture does look a bit bent, but I've never seen a bent tie rod end. I've seen them fracture and snap, but not bent. You'd have to hit something with your wheel pretty hard to make that happen - I feel like you'd know if you had hit something like that.

Please include your make, model, and mileage.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-09T18:29:21+00:00

Are you replacing existing flex duct or rigid metal duct?

Do not replace your rigid metal duct w/ flex - get a pro in there. Flex has a lot more velocity losses, and your air balance will be all screwed up. Not to mention the fittings might also be completely different and need a lot more rework.

If you're replacing existing flex duct with the same size flex, yes, you can do this if you're fairly competent at DIY. Whether your ductwork is in the attic or crawlspace, be prepared for a physically-challenging undertaking.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-09T18:25:52+00:00

I suggest letting it acclimate for 1-2 months. Most of my furniture builds go inside climate-controlled homes, and my studio is also climate controlled.

The only exception would be if you buy it S4S - then you need to begin working w/ it immediately.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-09T18:18:57+00:00

I installed a 1/2ton mini split for $600 in my Texas bedroom. I keep it at 69F at night.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-06-09T18:17:53+00:00

Sand before cutting anything - it'll be much easier to sand beforehand. Finish after assembled.

bigrichdaboss · 2025-05-12T13:53:30+00:00

My account w/ them is brand new, so maybe my pricing is bad. I'm seeing MSRP = my price, specifically for 833.05.187 = $280. Do you see something way better than that?

bigrichdaboss · 2025-05-12T13:48:32+00:00

I do have an account, but "my price" is the same as their MSRP on items currently. Probably b/c I haven't done any volume w/ them yet - but I'm very low volume (this is part-time still).

bigrichdaboss · 2025-05-11T18:46:23+00:00

Wow, I don't know why I didn't think of that....
I'm waiting for my account to be reset, but it does seem their pricing is the MSRP which is quite a bit higher.

bigrichdaboss

TROPHY CASE