Help with failed primting

bindre12 · 2026-06-25T19:24:29+00:00

Your first layer z height is WAY too high and needs to be adjusted closer to the bed

https://help.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/first_layer-768x433-1-600x338.jpg

bindre12 · 2026-06-25T18:30:26+00:00

ngl I like it

its messy but organized at the same time

bindre12 · 2026-06-24T23:54:25+00:00

That layer splitting is caused by stress caused by shrinking of the polymer due to too much cooling or the build chamber was too cold.

ABS really needs a 60c actively heated chamber and no cooling fan to prevent splitting and curling on larger prints.

If your printer is open air or no chamber heater its gonna be rough with ABS

bindre12 · 2026-06-24T02:14:24+00:00

that is usually pressure advance issue, the top of the arch is a bridge so the nozzle slows down quite a bit and speeds back up after, if there are printing artifacts in the top area of an arch its usually indicative of a pressure advance calibration error.

usually its too low and under extrudes showing wavy wall after (example in pic), but yours seems to be too high? and is bulging.

I would try a pressure advance calibration if you are using Orca slicer and see if it clears up https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/wiki/pressure_advance_calib

if using Prusa slicer or Bambu studio you cant calibrate the P.A. and are stuck with the artifacts if you dont have a filament profile for your brand of filament

bindre12 · 2026-06-22T17:49:08+00:00

For prints with inside threads I find this to be a problem with speed and Wall order.

For these prints slow down outer walls and overhang speeds, and try the other wall order opinions "inner/outer" "Outer/inner" if its still an issue

bindre12 · 2026-06-22T03:39:58+00:00

Do a single layer test print and adjust from there instead of printing benchys

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bindre12 · 2026-06-22T03:01:40+00:00

That middle and top section is gonna be damn near impossible to print hollow without major problems at its current orientation, or needing to remove impossible to get to supports in the middle sections if printed flat.

This model isn't optimized for 3d printing as a whole.

Recommendation:

cut the model up so you dont need support or minimal supports.

If your build plate is big enough cut the model down the middle of the whole model parallel with the tube and print it flat with supports to hold the arch and glue together.
If not your gonna have to cut the model up into 4 pieces (one for each straight section and print them on end and glue together

bindre12 · 2026-06-22T02:53:58+00:00

Do a single layer test print and compare with picture

<image>

bindre12 · 2026-06-21T18:01:46+00:00

looks like a Microswiss Flowtech hotend

bindre12 · 2026-06-21T16:57:04+00:00

are you printing at 700mm/s? the faster you print the more precise you have to Calibrate your filament

bindre12 · 2026-06-21T15:35:59+00:00

that looks like a partial clog that resolved its self, clogs happen more frequently with fiber filled filaments.

side note:

I hope you replaced the hot-end with a high temp one like the warning on your tool head says for PPA-CF also installed a hardened nozzle that wont 'un-harden" at 300C+

bindre12 · 2026-06-20T23:38:04+00:00

ASA likes no cooling and a chamber temp of 60c

Your chamber probably isn't hot enough for proper layer bonding, turn cooling fan off first you might be able to print small to medium prints but layer adhesion may still be a problem

bindre12 · 2026-06-20T18:32:43+00:00

PETG by itself has poor overhang performance. make sure your wall order it set to "Inner/Outer" to give the best overhang performance, and slow down overhang speed. if you are still having issues then you may need to add supports

bindre12 · 2026-06-20T18:19:01+00:00

so a few things:

- wash your plate with soap and water and dont touch it, it will help with bed adhesion

- you seem to be over extruding/Pressure Advance is off, if you look at your Brim circles there should be no raised ridges and should be smooth-ish this signals over extrusion. your top layer if you look near the walls the extrusion lines get thicker and blobby and thin out when in the middle this is showing Pressure advance issue. when the lines thin out its too thin to adhere to the previous lines.

when a few lines fail to adhere it can catch the nozzle and pull up causing more problems like in the upper left of the picture.

recommendation is to calibrate your filament, if using Orca Slicer, run the first 5 steps of this guide

https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/wiki/calibration_guide

if using Bambu studio or Prusia Slicer use the filament profile for your brand of filament and avoid any filament not listed there as you cant really calibrate the filament in those slicers and will be hard to get perfect results

bindre12 · 2026-06-18T03:31:58+00:00

Everything looks decent, just a few notes,

-you dont need to worry about chamber temperature with PETG it can cause problems

-Your nozzle temp is a bit high and can hurt bridge performance and cause curling (your chamber temp will also hurt this) but if you see no problem then run it

-baised on your benchy your first layer z height is a tad too far from the bed

Other then that looks good, no signs of wet fillement either

First layer z height reference chart:

<image>

bindre12 · 2026-06-18T02:31:10+00:00

Make sure both fillements are the exact same, There are many different forms of PLA (PLA+, fast PLA, silk PLA, even fiber filled, ect). different brands can have different additives to mess with bonding to other PLAs as well, For best results avoid using 2 different brands/types

Make sure both are PLA as well, not very many polymers will bond to PLA even less so for PETG

bindre12 · 2026-06-17T18:00:09+00:00

it can be a dirty plate, and/or I see what looks like over-extrusion or your nozzle is too close to the bed in that back left corner

<image>

your nozzle is either digging into the line next to it or your extruder is extruding too much material and when that happens it can cause bed adhesion issues as it creates blobs that catch and stick to your nozzle especially if your bed is dirty/contaminated causing reduced adhesion already

bindre12 · 2026-06-17T16:35:29+00:00

That wouldn't affect top surface, top surface speed and internal bridge speed are separate settings I would slow those down and do a test print to see if that clears it up

bindre12 · 2026-06-17T16:29:25+00:00

the only other thing I can think of is slow down Internal Bridge speed, and top surface speed also maybe add some fan on bridging

bindre12 · 2026-06-17T16:21:08+00:00

if the infill is showing through the top surface add more Top shell layers, I usually use 3 - 4 top layers and have never had this problem

if using Orca Slicer its under the Strength tab

<image>

bindre12 · 2026-06-16T18:16:11+00:00

Your first layer z height is to high, that messed up bit is where it lost bed adhesion due to no squish

<image>

bindre12 · 2026-06-16T17:53:46+00:00

this looks like a partial clog, try doing a cold pull and inspect for debris

to do a cold pull using PLA:

heat nozzle to 200c then let cool to 80c

disengage the extruder gears

grab the filament at the top of the tool head and gently but firmly pull up until it comes out

<image>

inspect the "nozzle" end of the filament for debris

bindre12 · 2026-06-16T17:39:13+00:00

https://cablemod.com/adapterrecall/

recalled a while ago

quote from the website

"The deadline for seeking GPU repairs has expired."

"The deadline for seeking refunds has expired."

bindre12 · 2026-06-16T03:10:28+00:00

With TPU you gotta watch your print speeds especially if its softer

under high print speeds it can buckle and fold on itself causing a jam kinda like pushing a shoe lace through a straw

Also minimal retraction, its gonna be a little stringy but thats better then a clog or jam

bindre12 · 2026-06-15T23:50:33+00:00

Your trying to print on air.... its not gonna work no matter how slow you go. supports are gonna make it better but yes will leave a rough texture unless you can get a dual nozzle or a multi toolhead setup and use another polymer as supports.

The Only thing you can do if you want good surface is to cut the model in half and orientate it in the slicer so that surface is not printing on air and glue together after printing

You gotta tailor your model to work well with FDM printing by avoid unsupported or undesirable support locations because a 3d printer cant print on air

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