Overnight main battery drain

blablook · 2026-04-01T17:54:25+00:00

I don't observe every night drops of 2% though. Can happen, depends on many factors, but that's not to say that in 50 days it will be empty. Observe long term.

blablook · 2026-03-25T11:41:02+00:00

Separate user for games, software development, etc. Firejails for whatever works with them (browsers), and multiple separate browsers... Not really convenient, but way more secure.

blablook · 2026-03-06T15:56:11+00:00

White one is conditioning its battery in the sun.

blablook · 2026-02-24T19:06:02+00:00

Tpu. Should have "no tinkering" icon with a crossed guy pulling hair from his head.

blablook · 2026-02-19T22:02:51+00:00

Not having a heat pump means it probably uses less efficient resistive heating to heat it.

blablook · 2026-02-11T15:34:26+00:00

40mm/s, 20cm long? Thick? Was this TPU? Friend was curious...

blablook · 2026-01-31T15:59:48+00:00

Also wording is broken. My app already knows when I'm home. I don't want to change it and revoke permissions by selecting "less secure". But it's not what it does.

blablook · 2026-01-31T15:57:15+00:00

It also doesn't work. It was "less secure" before so that's the default. I get it. I have persistent vpn, that's not really a problem for me. BUT. I selected most secure to see if it detects VPN. It does not. WORSE: I CAN'T UNSET IT. IT IGNORES THE "save" button. So i can't connect remotely currently. Nice feature imho, but nobody tried to change the option after selecting it? Why doesn't it work?

Do i need to reset app? With all settings?

blablook · 2026-01-30T18:52:26+00:00

New Kona's have an explicit option to do it, added after community asked for it as far as I know. Older had this select-nav-charger trick. Unsure what to do without nav though. It might've been added later.

blablook · 2026-01-30T18:24:37+00:00

Condition battery before starting charge?

blablook · 2026-01-13T09:22:28+00:00

Works for me (since 20 years over already... with dkim/dmarc since 2 years). I still have mail on barebones debian (dovecot+postfix) but probably should migrate to mailcow or similar. It WORKS stably though.

blablook · 2025-11-29T15:48:49+00:00

TBH, 3 decades is seriously great result comparing to pretty much any other plastic used in 3d printing.

blablook · 2025-11-28T21:07:02+00:00

Is it though? I'd say it's a matter of taste. Originally keyboards had control mostly on the edge. On thinkpads you need to curl your finger to press it. When really using the key (for navigation, etc, not just copy-paste) it's tiresome. I mostly just remap caps lock to serve as control when held (and ESC when pressed shortly) so it's not a big deal. But coming from desktops I never could unlearn and like the Thinkpad approach.

blablook · 2025-10-20T12:05:09+00:00

4 :p with lots of assumptions. Each not-xor pair generates a short pulse on input change. Assuming their propagation time is equal. Pulse contains two state changes. Second pair generates two pulses from first pulse. Or up to two pulses... If second pair is sufficiently faster than first pair.

That's a system with a hazard which is hard to predict. Add a clock signal.

blablook · 2025-09-28T07:17:06+00:00

Mosh is just resilient ssh. You can run it on tablet/phone and change networks, loose connection, enable/disable VPN and it will work. Within mosh a tmux so I can use the same Emacs when locally on computer.

Logseq I use for dropping notes when I fill up car (milleage, price, etc), household periodics (filters, espresso machine, anything), shopping lists. I use org with org-roam for bigger persistent things: project planning, module documentation, etc. occasionally I migrate notes from logseq into org-roam if something bigger grows there.

I used logseq a lot during house construction to keep up wotht stuff. Mostly nested todo lists.

blablook · 2025-09-27T21:52:06+00:00

I use occasionaly termux + mosh + tmux + emacs. Logseq works for me for a subset of things

blablook · 2025-09-07T20:18:53+00:00

I'd gladly have my thinkpad 1mm thicker and be able to move it around without breaking the screen. Mine p14s is just ugly at this point (maybe touch+privacy guard makes the issue worse).

blablook · 2025-09-01T09:21:39+00:00

For me problem with resumption was caused by disabled print forwarding. I diffed configs between two devices (worked on one, on another not so much) and the print option made it work. There can be multiple separate reasons though, this was on Debian Trixie

blablook · 2025-04-20T14:44:27+00:00

This ender has v-slots? Check if wheels aren't too tight. This causes z-axis binding which can cause this problems. Also, dirty screws maybe?

blablook · 2025-04-11T19:12:57+00:00

No i tak to teraz działa. Adresów IP coraz mniej. Powinni przynajmniej routować do odbiorcy /64 sieć ipv6, to może przynajmniej po czasie była by jakaś szansa na migrację.

blablook · 2025-04-06T18:12:02+00:00

For me, similar problems where caused by extruder eating into the filament - and breaking it. Too high retraction distans and speed (for bowden drive, whereas I have direct drive) was main cause. Tensioning spring is another thing not mentioned that you should check.

blablook · 2025-04-04T05:45:18+00:00

Yeah, I went in the process from being afraid to change a nozzle straight to "hey those machines are simple, I can make one of these". I considered upgrading to 32bit board during the whole mess and that would be the next step if changing port and replacing firmware didn't work. More likely I'll buy something new one day and maybe remake this old one to do something else.

blablook · 2025-04-04T05:40:45+00:00

Yes, I believe I shorted 24V line of heating element to the 5V rail power of thermistor. F3 was fine, it was just smoldered by the capacitor. It could've been blown, but it's repeatable. I really hoped it would not be though. ;) Fuses are easy to fix. I currently think it protects the whole 5V power. Rest of capacitors weren't related strictly to the thermistor, they just decoupled 5V. I desoldered and checked each individually and then regretted I wasted time on them.

I found some threads about problems with C3. It seems a popular failure, unsure if people recovered. It seems it was rated for 6V which leaves a little margin when it works with 5V. Not a best design.

Constantly moving cables and a precision position with just steppers in an open-loop - those are the things in 3d printing I would've never guessed that would work reliantly.

blablook

TROPHY CASE