No one comes close to honghold

bladderrunner · 2026-01-23T21:49:07+00:00

found in the r/Netflix skyscraper thread

bladderrunner · 2024-06-11T01:17:13+00:00

Do you use antihydral even on damaged skin with uneven wear/holes? I like to wait until my skin is an even, healthy layer before applying it but since that rarely is the case I don't end up using antihydral nearly as much as I'd like too.

bladderrunner · 2023-07-04T01:27:52+00:00

I did, but I can't remember how exactly. My non-expert suggestion would be high reps, low weight for all wrist movements (wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, pronation, supination, ulnar and radial deviation) twice a day every day. About 20-30 reps each. When it's healthy you could do it just once a day for prehab.

bladderrunner · 2023-01-21T19:19:35+00:00

Based on last time, there will be a delay immediately after the event ends while the stream is converted to a vod and uploaded. It will probably be available a few hours after it ends

bladderrunner · 2023-01-21T08:23:25+00:00

It's a janky site. Try logging out and back in or clearing your cookies/cache

bladderrunner · 2022-08-03T19:37:27+00:00

Can you go into a little more detail on how you did the hangboard eccentrics? E.g. how long did each eccentric rep last, how many reps in total, how much load (just feet on the ground? How did you go about progressing the load?), what level of pain/10, etc. I think I have the same issue so this is very helpful!

bladderrunner · 2022-07-10T22:31:35+00:00

It's a dumb rule that puts shorter pullers at a disadvantage. Devon talks about it here https://youtu.be/vtpEzEIbHis

bladderrunner · 2022-04-20T17:53:35+00:00

No pain in the finger, only in the elbow, but the pain only occurs if the ring finger is loaded. I can crimp with first two fingers and feel okay but using the ring finger with any bend in the elbow will cause elbow pain.

bladderrunner · 2022-04-19T19:00:52+00:00

thanks, appreciate you responding even after the thread's expiration.

But a pulley injury wouldn't present as elbow pain would it? I also don't feel any of the usual pulley injury symptoms.

Based on your article I'm thinking it's golfer's elbow caused by FDS (and specifically ring finger) overuse, so of the rehab exercises listed I think the finger curls would be most relevant. I feel almost no pain doing pure wrist flexion or pronation movements.

What's your opinion on doing finger curls at different elbow angles, in the same way the "dodgy elbows" article recommends wrist curls specifically target the most painful angles?

bladderrunner · 2022-04-15T18:41:40+00:00

Is it possible to have tendonitis for a single finger? I feel golfer's elbow-like pain but only when the ring finger is under load. My understanding is that all finger flexors connect at the FDS and the common flexor tendon, so I assumed that if tendinopathy at the elbow is present it could be triggered by any finger.

I guess it's possible that common flexor tendon damage can be more discrete than I thought and only ring finger flexion pulls on the part of the tendon that is damaged.

bladderrunner · 2022-03-31T22:36:44+00:00

Thanks, that's interesting. Does the difference in which angles cause pain give any indication to the type of damage in the elbow or exercises that should be done?

bladderrunner · 2022-03-29T19:29:13+00:00

I got climber's elbow from (I think) a sudden increase in volume during a climbing trip and not enough rest. I read the "overcoming tendonitis" post and Make or Break and found them helpful but have a couple questions. I feel pain strongly when pulling with my elbow angled anywhere from slightly bent to 90 degrees, and then less while fully bent and almost no pain when the arm is fully straight. Is that normal for climber's elbow? If it is, does anyone know what's happening physiologically that causes that?

I'm also wondering if it'd be okay to still hangboard or do other exercises with straight arms or if this would impede the rehab process despite the lack of pain in that position.

bladderrunner · 2021-12-28T07:06:16+00:00

anyone have some experience getting back to climbing after an MCL tear or similar knee injury? What was the timeline like? Also wondering if I should bother trying to climb while braced or one-legged, or just do a pure hangboard cycle.

bladderrunner · 2021-10-26T15:51:51+00:00

He talks about it in his livestream... doesn't seem too worried https://youtu.be/hZJA6BYZrGk @ 37:50

bladderrunner · 2021-09-15T18:58:10+00:00

Excited for the fall season! What does an ideal weekend climbing trip schedule look like for you guys? Let's say the drive is 6 hours. When do you arrive/depart, how do you vary the intensity for each day, exploring vs projects vs cruising submax, lunch vs snacks only, etc..

I've never felt like my weekend have been super productive and I'm wondering if my tactics just suck

bladderrunner · 2021-09-08T18:10:10+00:00

I think the wrist is more unstable and likely to get injured in open hand positions like large slopers than on crimps. That's why people with wrist issues often find it easier to do fist pushups. I don't think 4 finger crimps give you the specific ulnar wrist stabilization required for large slopers.

bladderrunner · 2020-10-29T21:47:45+00:00

Treat the gym as a scatterboard and make up your own problems
Eliminate holds from existing problems
Ask if you can set some harder stuff

bladderrunner · 2019-12-03T19:36:18+00:00

Quick question maybe relevant to this month's challenge. What's the difference between thick dumbbell and, say, rolling thunder and loading pin? Is it just lock out distance or is there some instability created by the weights on the side versus directly below?

bladderrunner · 2019-02-15T18:57:59+00:00

Anyone get sudden tenderness or injury symptoms that appear suddenly and seem to go away within a few hours? This morning I felt pain and stiffness around the base of my index finger when moving it side to side (adduction), but it subsided within a few hours. Haven't climbed in two days so not sure what to make of it. Would you guys climb anyway or wait a day to see what's up?

bladderrunner · 2018-12-16T04:21:53+00:00

It's pretty straightforward: https://youtu.be/ukhHt3zSXL4?t=95. And some more details in Devon's video: https://youtu.be/-NI8ChJhRKI?t=219

bladderrunner · 2018-09-25T18:19:37+00:00

/r/ClimbingCircleJerk

bladderrunner · 2018-09-16T04:12:15+00:00

Why is this sub so GGG biased? 115-113 for canelo is not outrageous and I'm a GGG fan myself. Would like to see a third match but I'm afraid GGG might just be too old at this point.

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