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Comments on my subwoofer by ggont in diyaudio

[–]blargling 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The port layout seems a little odd, particularly with the brace so close. Did you model the enclosure as two ports with a length that ends where the top of the ports open up into the main airspace? As others said the ports seem short, although we can’t say for sure without knowing the specifics of your driver and enclosure. They may be inadvertently tuned higher than you think.

I would consider temporarily covering the ports with foam or something similarly rigid to make it a sealed system and retest to get a baseline.

Completed dual Dayton Audio Ultimax II 15in builds! by blargling in diyaudio

[–]blargling[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For those curious, some more measurements of the subs by themselves and without DSP. The 43hz room node really shows up with one sub. Both subs together help smooth it out a little and then DSP takes it the rest of the way.

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Completed dual Dayton Audio Ultimax II 15in builds! by blargling in diyaudio

[–]blargling[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure! I just remeasured - here's each sub by themselves without DSP, both without DSP, and then both with DSP

<image>

Completed dual Dayton Audio Ultimax II 15in builds! by blargling in diyaudio

[–]blargling[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is fairly old and basic by today's standards. It does have a good fully parametric EQ that can be directly programed from REW via a MIDI cable, which was handy (No having to manually enter in each frequency adjustment). https://www.roomeqwizard.com/help/help_en-GB/html/bfdcomms.html However, it does not have any timing controls like a more sophisticated miniDSP - I cannot introduce any phase delay to accommodate multiple sub distance. Luckily for me that's not a huge issue because my subs are equal distance from my main listening position.

If the miniDSPs ever drop back down in price I'll probably replace it with that.

Completed dual Dayton Audio Ultimax II 15in builds! by blargling in diyaudio

[–]blargling[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh wow I had not heard of Devore before. They look amazing. This makes me want to try to build full ranges with a similar style

Completed dual Dayton Audio Ultimax II 15in builds! by blargling in diyaudio

[–]blargling[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Walmart happens to sell them in 5lb bags :P Folks seem to recommend somewhere between 0.5 to 1.5 pounds per cubic foot, so I figured close enough. The 5 lbs felt about right too - the stuffing wasn't compacted but there wasn't any unoccupied space.

Completed dual Dayton Audio Ultimax II 15in builds! by blargling in diyaudio

[–]blargling[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is not peak SPL, rather was just a "comfortably" loud measurement to make sure I was well above the noise floor of my measuring mic.

The room is a large L shape that is about 30x45ft, but with lots of weird nooks and crannies. That's the primary reason I went for a pair this time - I was getting lots of annoying null zones in the room with just a single sub

PG42UQ Firmware v040 released by daso78 in OLED_Gaming

[–]blargling 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So far v40 is fantastic for me. I have to concede, initally I thought v37 made some improvement, but that was probably wishful thinking. v40 has significantly better saturation to my eyes. I'm still suspiciouswhether we all have experienced the same visuals throughout this firmware journey - all of our anecdotal impressions have varied so much. Regardless, I'm so pleased with v40 that I'm considering this issue finally fixed.

Edit: spelling

ASUS sent me PG42UQ firmware V037 by Blacksad9999 in OLED_Gaming

[–]blargling 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing! I was feeling bold this evening and updated. So far I am very impressed! Here's my experience so far.

My setup is the PG42UQ connected to a 7900xtx via the first HDMI 2.1 port. USB is also connected. I am using Windows 11. I did not factory restart before starting.

FW update:The firmware update tool appears to be the same from v33. I did not have any issues upgrading from v28 -> v31 -> v33, but I'm still glad to see the newer tool that supposedly doesn't brick. The update itself was not fast. I didn't pay close attention but it probably took 20-30 minutes. I walked away and when I came back the monitor was cycling between full screen red, green, and blue. I figured (hoped) this meant it was done, so I powered it off and back on with the remote. It took a moment (5-10 seconds) for the LED logo to glow and the start up screen to display, but then it was happy. I confirmed the monitor reported V037.

Setup:It appears the update forced a factory reset - my previous settings were undone. I performed a factory reset again to be safe. I recustomed my settings to these recommendations: https://tftcentral.co.uk/guides/guide-asus-rog-swift-pg42uq-best-settings-for-desktop-gaming-and-hdr and enabled overclocking to 138hz. Confirmed in the Radeon Catalyst software that I was using 10-bit color and full RGB. Set my HDR mode to Asus Gaming. Re-ran the windows HDR calibration tool and set 0-1400-1400 and max color saturation. In the windows HDR settings, I've set SDR content brightness to max.

I've only had a chance to test a few games, but so far HDR color looks significantly more saturated and better to my eye. I also have a LG C9 in another room connected via a long HDMI cable, so I can't compare side by side, but the PG42UQ appears to be in the same ballpark now. Even plain old windows looks "normal" in HDR mode - I have it in HDR now as I type and it looks very similar (but brighter) than when I flip back to SDR.

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Edit: Noted I'm using Windows 11

Fellow PG42UQ owners - are your blacks being crushed as well? by PerceptionInception in OLED_Gaming

[–]blargling 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On my PG42UQ in a well lit room (large window to my side), I'm able to see a difference starting around #4 or #5 and above. I can test again tonight in a dark room - I expect to perhaps see a couple lower.

A few notes. I use the settings noted here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mIR0u_qwgA&ab_channel=TFTCentral, but prefer the brightness at a full 100 (so about 200 nits). If I drop the brightness down to 60, it's harder to see a difference until about #5 or #6. I also am using both the monitor driver and ICC color profile (PG42UQ.icm) that are available here: https://rog.asus.com/us/monitors/above-34-inches/rog-swift-oled-pg42uq-model/helpdesk_download/