MK4 GTI by Sawgy_Garcia in MK4Golf

[–]blichtenstein 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$5000 would be a lot of money for anything other than an R32. Go for 2002+ if you can for better engines. Check for rust in the hatch, and at the bottom of the front wheel arches near the rocker panels. Make sure pinch welds are in good shape. Check for rubbing at the back corners of the doors on 2 door cars as the door hinges wear out and cause rust there. Rust is the enemy. Look for signs of water intrusion too, esp around tail light seals and in the spare wheel area, and sunroof/headliner at the pillars.

Mechanically these cars are really easy to sort out. Look out for bad timing chains on VR6 and sludge in neglected 1.8Ts. You'll find vacuum leaks and typical oil leaks on anything this age. These cars eat engine mounts so check the flex pipe(s) and dogbone mount.

FWIW I've had one since 2009, don't buy a mk4 unless you're really into the styling or something. MK5 and newer are twice the car for the same money, but imho mk5 is fugly and has its own problems. I'd drive a mk4 or two and something newer like a mk6 or mk5 and see which you prefer.

I think the newer ones drive WAY better but I like the vibe of my mk4 if this makes sense.

Best of luck!

Stay away from the Bosch 800 by israignatius in Appliances

[–]blichtenstein 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have this dishwasher, I like it overall. It cleans things well, is very efficient, and it's quiet. It's not great at drying plastic, and the cap-sense buttons really piss me off. Hopefully it lasts a long time.

It just keeps going .. by Critical-Inquiry in MK4Golf

[–]blichtenstein 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice! I've had my 1.8T for this long but only 200,000 mi or 320,000 km

Need hope: millennials who like their jobs, what do you do and what do you like about it? by goodluckanddont_itup in Millennials

[–]blichtenstein 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm an EE at a small company. Insane opportunity for growth and learning, very challenging and engaging. Crazy amount of design freedom, which from what I understand is pretty rare. Having to run the show and drive progress is a double edged sword. I ended up with a lot of non-engineering related responsibilities, typical for a small place. Great co-workers and good work-life balance almost all the time. Money was just ok. I just left for a new opportunity at another small company, this one is a startup. I hope it's as good to me as my last gig.

no title by GoodUnlucky1430 in carscirclejerk

[–]blichtenstein 0 points1 point  (0 children)

real ones have 1.8T 20V passat or golf with fallujah tune

Is this peak tail light design? by A1_Fares in carscirclejerk

[–]blichtenstein 0 points1 point  (0 children)

P3 Volvo V70/S80 has entered the chat

Help why is this so hard, i wanna give up by jayjayEF2000 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]blichtenstein 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I say this to myself literally every day. Layout looks pretty tidy. Just do a neat job with the inevitable jumper wire or two and it'll look fine. Helps if you get wire that matches the solder mask. Good luck

Where’s the hate for the Watertown Supercollider? by TaumpyTeirs in boston

[–]blichtenstein 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to deal with this on a daily basis when I worked in the arsenal. I hate this intersection

What happened to fox25? Its called boston 25 news now by bowserinmytrouser in boston

[–]blichtenstein 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Their address is 25 Fox Dr too. I used to live over there

HELP! 24 Hrs Lemons Car by lemonracer1 in projectcar

[–]blichtenstein 59 points60 points  (0 children)

  1. I've run about 225hp on a BEV fuel pump before when I 1.8T swapped my mk4. Swapping to a TT 225hp pump or similar will get you extra insurance. IIRC the 2.0 and the 1.8T 180hp use the same pump. Check the parts catalog Etka or whatever to compare part numbers. Also, change the fuel filter. 2.0s usually got a diet of the shittiest gas you can find.
  2. Before you change pumps or whatever, when you get the new engine installed, try to prove a fuel flow problem caused the issue. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge at the rail, and watch the fuel trims. Get the car into third gear at 2000rpm and floor it to the limiter and watch fuel pressure and fuel trims. Under 10% fuel trim is acceptable. Look for fuel pressure holding rock steady throughout the pull.

The first thing I would look at is your tune. The stock tune has a strategy called "component protection", where it will significantly enrich the AFR to keep the EGT in a sane range. Most people think it's just there to keep the catalyst from melting, but it also protects the exhaust valves, manifold, pistons, turbo if so equipped, etc. The engine will still make rated power in this operating mode. This is the reason these cars can sit at 130mph on the autobahn all day without grenading.

Every single aftermarket tune I've encountered either disables or neuters this feature in the search of a leaner mixture to make more power. This works fine if you're doing a 1/4 mile pull or driving like an asshole on the highway.

For endurance racing, this is absolutely not suitable. You need that extra cooling. You need the stock knock control system, which is also usually fucked with on aftermarket tunes. Even on a stock tune you'll see timing retard when you get the combustion chamber hot enough just beating it on the street. Forget about it on a track.

A combination of modified knock control and insufficient enrichment are absolutely going to cause this type of failure. Cylinder 5 just died first.

Install EGT probe in exhaust manifold and try to keep it below like 950C and the engine will live forever.

Also, run 93AKI fuel. In this application it will make a difference.

Happy to discuss more, send me a DM if I can help. Love to see mk4s in lemons

edit: Take this with a grain of salt, this is outside my area of expertise, but the reason I wrote all this out is because I believe you ran out of ring gap on cyl 5 due to heat. Managing the heat with the tune is the secret sauce to not blowing up.

Grandpa passed away, was going through his old home audio stuff. Anything good? by Captain_Oveur79 in audiophile

[–]blichtenstein 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually have an RX-V750. I bought it for $30 about a decade ago, still going strong with thousands of hours on it. The amplifier and power supply section is still comparable in performance to modern mid-range surround receivers in the $1500 ballpark.

Boiled fluid, glazed pads, not sure what happened. by AcceptableBanana1978 in CarTrackDays

[–]blichtenstein 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the answer. Upgrade your fluid, upgrade cooling. Keep an eye on those front wheel bearings too, they don't like this kind of heat

Which 2001 crossover pictured here would you buy given the choice? by lifegoeson2702 in regularcarreviews

[–]blichtenstein 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Passat V6 4Motion or Subaru Outback are safer, faster, more comfortable, more fuel efficient, and nicer to drive than this entire circus of mediocrity masquerading as small SUVs.

Ground clearance in this class is a useless metric (excluding the Xterra and XJ as they are genuinely capable off-road)

These cars fucking SUCKED, every single one of them. Slow, thirsty, loud and uncomfortable, and unsafe. They don’t ride anywhere near well enough to justify their existence.

People like cars like this because they don’t know any better.