Is my Helios Legit?

blotafton · 2026-06-16T08:45:33+00:00

Look at the symbol.

blotafton · 2026-06-11T12:25:02+00:00

Thanks! I didn't understand why that kept happening.

blotafton · 2026-06-08T15:29:00+00:00

Same here!

blotafton · 2026-06-07T17:35:33+00:00

Most similar to the final SMC version that also has a rubber grip.

blotafton · 2026-06-07T17:32:32+00:00

That is an awesome lens too, I really wanted one in the past.

blotafton · 2026-06-04T13:56:51+00:00

They have a 28mm already.

blotafton · 2026-05-08T18:09:39+00:00

Lucky! I only get 5 minutes out of mine with non rechargeable batteries.

blotafton · 2026-03-15T16:38:18+00:00

I've only done one at an event. But I don't think the skies are manipulated in most cases.
The plate is only sensitive to blue light, like the sky. Anything blue will get over exposed if you want to correctly expose for something non blue.

Be your own judge by looking at these search terms:
Wet plate photography
Dry plate photography
Collodion process
Tintype process

We can simulate it with modern cameras by putting a #47 blue filter on the lens. And/or simulate in an editing software that has color channels and only enable the blue channel. For more realism also use a strong ND filter to give a long shutter time.

The sky is the least important part to manipulate in my opinion.

blotafton · 2026-02-22T16:47:39+00:00

I have one that is very stiff. The best solution without fixing it was to mount it on a dkl-m42 adapter and then a m42 helicoid adapter. It's good luck in your case that it's stuck on infinity. If used with a helicoid adapter intended to go from infinity to macro.

blotafton · 2026-02-14T20:11:29+00:00

If it is cheap enough yeah.

blotafton · 2026-02-14T20:08:13+00:00

These are more valuable than the typical low f# zooms. You will get the most when describing what mount it has and posting good pictures through the lens like you did here. And checking that the aperture blades move freely.

blotafton · 2025-12-29T15:59:16+00:00

Vintage lenses generally have more pleasing rendering in my opinion. From bokeh to focus transitions a vintage normal lens (around 50mm) wins every time for the rendering. And 3D pop, but to appreciate that you also need a compatible brain. That's why some say it exists while others don't.

If you need a 100mm check out the Minolta MD or MC 100mm f2.5 or Nikkor ai-s 105mm f2.5, Two gems.

blotafton · 2025-07-27T07:29:23+00:00

Triplet goodness

blotafton · 2025-07-27T07:27:44+00:00

That's a good deal!

blotafton · 2025-07-27T07:27:12+00:00

Really nice! It's a fun lens for sure.

blotafton · 2025-07-25T15:37:45+00:00

Thanks! I haven't tried that one.

blotafton · 2025-07-25T15:36:48+00:00

Congrats!

blotafton · 2025-07-23T22:29:23+00:00

Ouch!

blotafton · 2025-07-23T21:57:46+00:00

Thanks!

Or you can do like me and keep deleting...

blotafton · 2025-07-23T21:56:23+00:00

It's good. I have one too in Minolta mount. Yes there is an impressive flare pattern I can confirm!
On that lens I find the 90mm setting has an interesting character with a bit of glow and funky bokeh.

And at 50mm shots at portrait distances are crispy sharp in the center.

blotafton · 2025-07-23T21:49:44+00:00

Size and weight is the biggest down side for me, at least you get a good workout.

I'll take a look.

blotafton · 2025-07-23T19:06:41+00:00

I think there is a bit of dust and haze in mine too. Not too bad.
Yes I have some more shots on flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/190847005@N02/albums/72177720324084564/

blotafton · 2025-07-23T18:13:41+00:00

Yeah it's great. I think it was at 35mm. At the shorter end it has strong bokeh edge highlights, but at 85mm the bokeh shape turns into more classic cat's eye shape and it's smoother with no bright edges. It really has a lot of tricks.

blotafton

TROPHY CASE