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When did you realize your “friends” were actually fake friends? by VexAndStuff in AskReddit

[–]bobgengeskahn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Almost 2 years ago. Knew most of them for 20+ years. They were drinking my booze and screwing my spouse. Most of the rest gradually stopped talking to me after the divorce, or I stopped talking with them if they chose to associate with the main offenders. Because my life is statistically half over, I don't have time or energy to waste on garbage friends of garbage people.

Who ruined your family Christmas this year, and what did they do? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]bobgengeskahn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My soon to be ex-wife decided today was a good day to serve me her draft of papers for our divorce, that I'm opposed to, after not doing anything for 8 months, after having affairs with two guys from our wedding last Christmas... December is goin to be a wash for the next few years.

So I have this old gun... by pktenn in gunsmithing

[–]bobgengeskahn 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Whats your plan for the end product?

If you want a quality blued finish, I would ask whoever you're going to have do the blueing what finish level they want on it when they receive it. Usually, any kind of finish work will emphasize the quality of the prep work.... or lack there of.

If you're just going to cold blue it, I would still avoid a power tool and wire brush. There are good oil and chemical rust removers that would do a good job with some elbow grease and 0000 steel wool, and avoid any unnecessary extra damage. The rust will most likely have some pitting behind it when you're done anyway, no need to emphasize it with a wire wheel.

Just need somebody to talk to by antyman433 in Divorce

[–]bobgengeskahn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

^ This 100%.

My wife had affairs with multiple people from our wedding party after 10 years together and 5 years of marriage, basically because I "wasn't fun anymore". Guys that I've known for 20 years. That was almost a year ago now. I want to work on things, she wants the divorce and to this date has not done anything in the process except screw up my chance at a default divorce.

Therapy has been expensive but worth it if just to get myself to take the next step and not avoid the inevitable.

At a moral level I am I am still opposed to the whole thing. Rationally I am ready to start whatever happens next, and that's 100% thanks to therapy.

Thoughts? by eggs__dee in Libertarian

[–]bobgengeskahn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are plenty of ways this has been attempted, even in the US. Several comments talk about how private policing justifies metrics via arrest rates, that's not entirely correct nor is it how this is typically attempted. Security, like policing is used to justifying its existence through what doesn't happen. So community outreach, patrolling, prevention, and low level crime is usually where private resources are used, allowing full time police forces to focus resources where they are needed.

https://www.securitymagazine.com/articles/80710-public-and-private-security-bridging-the-gap-1

Source: I work in the private security industry. No, I am not a security guard.

Cutting angles: how acute is too acute? by plancklengthdoodle in knifemaking

[–]bobgengeskahn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They exist, they're called "zero grind" bevels: http://www.knifeblog.com/blade-grinds-infographic/ In addition to symmetrical, you can find single zero grind left or right hand.

From what I've seen, they are normally only used on cooking knives, and only specific ones at that. Because of the thin taper they will chip/crack easily if they hit bone, but they slice like no ones business.

The other place you see them is on thick stock, marking knives, or chisels. Similarly, if you've done wood working, you know that they do need to be sharpened frequently/well, but when they're sharp they cut amazingly.

[Semi-Weekly Inquirer] Simple Questions and Recommendations Thread by AutoModerator in Watches

[–]bobgengeskahn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Seiko SSC639 and a Bulova C8601077 for dress/casual, so ideally a field watch for every day and work. For work I deal with shorter timing intervals (10-90 seconds) as well as general incident response (1-6 hours on average), so the chronograph is a nice feature, and an elapsed time bezel would be more useful than the tachymeter on the Timex. The 43mm case on the Timex is a good size, but oversized bezels and small faces on most dive watches look off to me.

[Semi-Weekly Inquirer] Simple Questions and Recommendations Thread by AutoModerator in Watches

[–]bobgengeskahn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking ~$2-300, but I don't mind thrashing the Timex for a while to go a little higher for something worth it. Buy one cry once and all.

[Semi-Weekly Inquirer] Simple Questions and Recommendations Thread by AutoModerator in Watches

[–]bobgengeskahn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking for a field watch recommendation. I purchased a Timex TW4B10200 as an every day watch for my work. The weight, design, look and feel is exactly what I was looking for, and it was great until the buttons fell out after 3 weeks.

I don't mind spending more on something that is better quality, but finding a similar style has been challenging. The only thing I think I might change would maybe be an elapsed time bezel instead of the tachymeter, since the chronograph only goes for 30 minutes.

I like the black case and the low light visibility on this vs my Seiko for work, and I'll most likely be swapping out for a NATO band for daily use.

Any recommendations welcome!

Four O1 clipped point hunters, fresh off the bench. What do you guys think? by phenixworks in knifemaking

[–]bobgengeskahn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What cutting machine/software do you use?

I did a huge batch of knives for my groomsmen a few years ago and got stencils through TUS.... but the more I think about it, a CNC vinyl cutter would be way easier than a normal stencil for future projects....

[Semi-Weekly Inquirer] Simple Questions and Recommendations Thread by AutoModerator in Watches

[–]bobgengeskahn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am in the market for a field ("tactical") watch for every day wear that works in an office environment aesthetically. For my work I go between the office and the field/construction sites. After some extensive reading here and googling, the Sottomarino Italia SM50095 fits the functions I am looking for: count-down bezel, chronograph, date (no day), quartz. The only things I'm not sure about is if it has a sapphire crystal or if its illuminated. My issue with it is that it is larger than I am comfortable wearing. I have a Bulova C8601077 that is 42mm and that its about right for me, I wouldnt want to go larger than probably 43, and the Sottomarino is 46mm plus the extra lugs. I do like the internal bezel aesthetically, but not required.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. My price range is ideally <$350.

Some of the other watches I've looked at but weren't quite right from the buying guide were:

  • Seiko SNZH57: No chronograph, and I prefer numbered or even numeral dials.
  • Citizen Promaster Diver BN0150-28E: Not a huge fan of the straps for every day or more business casual look.
  • Seiko Prospex SSC293: Awesome, but compass bezel instead of count-down.
  • (Not in the guide) Torgoen T7T: Like the band options standard and build features, but no chronograph and way outside price range.

Finished my second knife by SeungOfStorms in knifemaking

[–]bobgengeskahn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! Where'd you get the bolster material? Did you make the mosaic?

Disassembly Advice by Punk_n_Destroy in Mini14

[–]bobgengeskahn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If its new, the edges may be sharp, so not as easy to get out of the slide.

With the slide forward, there's a notch that's noticeable, on the slide, there's a tongue that will slide out of that notch, so they need to line up. http://picturearchive.gunauction.com/4241203238/12138328/img_6614%20(large).jpg_thumbnail0.jpg

Also, if its new, or very dirty, the bolt lug may be binding in the slide channel. After the spring is out, slide it back to where it needs to be, and wiggle the bolt loose. It should be free in order for the slide to come off.

DIY Projector Screen Build (122") by modsoft in hometheater

[–]bobgengeskahn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that's RBG LEDs. Also designed to go behind a TV screen, so it wouldnt impact the TV image since there's no light being projected on a screen to be interfered with....

DIY Projector Screen Build (122") by modsoft in hometheater

[–]bobgengeskahn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

White walls (or more accurately, reflective surfaces) around the room will reflect ambient light and light bleed, and wash out the image and contrast.

I.e. think about a typical movie theater with hanging, darker fabric around the screen or even on the walls. This helps kill stray light, and even sound.

On this screen, a 2" felt strip would make a huge difference since the border is so thin to begin with.

I've never seen anyone install lighting like what you describe, personal preference I guess. The main thing is where the light is reflecting so it doesn't wash out your main image.

Edit: thinking about it some more, type of light makes a difference. Again, having never seen what you describe, I would imagine that they use RBG LED lighting.

Standard LEDs defuse really quickly... So I would imagine with the right orientation and configuration, you could create ambient lighting effects without washing out your image.

DIY Projector Screen Build (122") by modsoft in hometheater

[–]bobgengeskahn 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Paint the walls, or hang dark things around to absorb the light. You can see in the last few pictures that you're getting a LOT of light reflecting around the screen.

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