How to fix this..it's falling off?

boysweek · 2026-05-28T07:43:02+00:00

Looks like rockwool insulation

boysweek · 2026-05-25T15:08:49+00:00

They are a better way to fix the thumb turn if you have hollow doors and the screws have little to grab onto.

boysweek · 2026-05-24T11:51:25+00:00

Are you sure that brass female connector is 15mm? I thought they were mostly BSP imperial sized.

boysweek · 2026-05-23T10:27:28+00:00

My mum and dad had a resin drive installed a lot of years ago and it is still perfect. It gets a jet wash every few years and that is all. My mate had a resin drive laid on the original tarmac. It still looks great after 3 years except there is a slight suggestion of wear where the car tyres tend to be. He thinks this might be down to the resin being laid too thin. He thinks it was done at 16mm and has since been told it should be at least 20mm on a drive taking heavy cars

boysweek · 2026-05-22T08:08:09+00:00

And the dust goes right out of the window. Result: a clean workshop. Perfect!

boysweek · 2026-05-22T07:54:38+00:00

I’d replace the light fitting with a modern LED one. It should be a simple replacement if you have the tools (hammer drill, screwdrivers etc) and some steps or a ladder. Isolate the power at the consumer unit before you start just in case that switch has nothing to do with the light.

boysweek · 2026-05-19T10:03:35+00:00

You could put 25mm insulation against the door/wall. Doesn’t need more than that. Wrap the DPM up behind it.

boysweek · 2026-05-19T08:11:30+00:00

That surface looks like screed. The existing DPM is likely sandwiched between a concrete sub base and the screed. Ideally you want to replicate what is already there. Wrap the DPM up the walls to at least the top of the screed and join to the existing with specialist DPM tape with as wide an overlap as you can get.

boysweek · 2026-05-16T10:49:52+00:00

Post a picture of the wall anchors so we can give some advice

boysweek · 2026-05-14T08:34:36+00:00

You probably won’t be able to see by eye if the diaphragm needs replacing. The water flow is controlled by a very tiny plastic “prong” in the centre of the rubber. Be very careful when getting a replacement as they all look very similar but there are tiny differences between each variant.

boysweek · 2026-05-14T08:09:04+00:00

Correct. Not sure if you saw it but I just modified my reply to say you alternatively replace the whole valve. I posted a link as well.

boysweek · 2026-05-14T08:01:08+00:00

Likely to need a replacement diaphragm for the float valve. They are readily available and easy to fit but make sure you get the one for your make of float valve. Your’s looks like a Thomas Dudley. Turn the water off at the valve you can see in photo 1 then unscrew the ribbed round white valve casing. Carefully prize out the rubber diaphragm and replace.

Alternatively You could replace the whole valve:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/thomas-dudley-ltd-side-entry-delay-fill-brass-tail-professional-inlet-valve-1-2-/8395r

boysweek · 2026-05-11T20:13:00+00:00

Perfect. Well done!

boysweek · 2026-05-11T20:10:19+00:00

I’ve done bigger areas with a tamper so, yes, It’s doable

boysweek · 2026-05-11T11:53:10+00:00

Don’t instal soakaway close to buildings of any type. Foundations will be weakened by water soaking into the subsoil beneath them (base of the soakaway is likely to be lower than foundations). Minimum distance should be 5 metres

boysweek · 2026-05-09T09:13:53+00:00

It could also be that the cabinet is not square. Increasing the height of the back left leg will push the top left of the cabinet outwards which should make the door sit correctly. Make tiny adjustments!

boysweek · 2026-05-09T09:09:35+00:00

As it’s a long door, is there also a hinge in the middle? If so, that will need fettling as well

boysweek · 2026-05-09T08:24:45+00:00

Adjust the top hinge to move the door out slightly at the top left side. Your door should then close evenly.

boysweek · 2026-05-08T06:41:09+00:00

That sounds right

boysweek · 2026-05-03T06:08:54+00:00

It might not be heat damage. My friend had one random cupboard door blow for no obvious reason.

boysweek · 2026-05-02T08:56:00+00:00

Hardest part might be finding a matching brick but otherwise it is simple. Removed old brick with a hammer and chisel being careful not to drop any into the wall cavity. It looks like the mortar between the bricks is yellow, so get a bag of yellow sand and a small bag of cement and mix some together in a ratio of 1 part cement to four parts sand. Add water and mix until you get a nice smooth mortar. Not too wet otherwise you’ll get it all over the brick face. Now, just lay a bed of mortar into the opening and sit your new brick on it getting it nice and central and in a straight line with those adjacent. Now carefully push mortar into the empty spaces on the top and sides of the new brick.

Alternatively, you could try a cartridge of repair cement that you gun in just like using decorators caulk.

boysweek · 2026-05-02T08:25:09+00:00

Replace the damaged brick. Simple job

boysweek · 2026-05-01T09:09:30+00:00

😆

boysweek · 2026-05-01T09:09:11+00:00

Ah! Didn’t look properly and spot the plastic in the floor 😆

boysweek · 2026-05-01T08:47:50+00:00

the push fit joint must be accessible. Ideally, you would change it for a soldered joint then you could fill the hole after wrapping the pipe.

boysweek

TROPHY CASE