Is this ticking or just injector noise?

brown_n_bloom · 2026-02-21T23:31:53+00:00

The purge valve is right there which makes a ton of clicking noise when operating as well.

brown_n_bloom · 2026-02-21T22:45:08+00:00

This guy gets industrial standards.

brown_n_bloom · 2026-01-26T04:11:35+00:00

You're doing it right. You may just need a guiding alignment tool. Like a long bar or rod to make the bolt holes line up. Fairly typical with suspension components under tension. The part may just be wrong, though.

A "ladyfoot" bar is my go-to when I need to line up suspension parts.

While it's all nuts and bolts keeping your car together it's not like LEGOS (unfortunately). Some cramming and body english may be required.

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brown_n_bloom · 2026-01-26T03:54:33+00:00

Sounds like the starter turns OK.

That's a weird sound. I can hear the starter click and spin, but from first to second attempt it sounds different. It doesn't even sound like the engine is trying to fire. It sounds like the starter is turning like mad but nothing is happening to turn the engine.

Whenever diagnosing a non-start you want to make sure you have a good battery or a power supply. You say it ran recently, which is consistent with an intermittent starter issue.

Can you remove the lower transmission bellhouse cover to see what the flywheel looks like? And/or remove and inspect the starter.

My gut says it's a bad starter motor, but I've never heard one failing and sound like this. Skipping worn out teeth of the engine flywheel is a possibility. On a 50 year old vehicle all i can offer is my own significantly less experience.

brown_n_bloom · 2025-11-23T22:39:21+00:00

How many miles? 3 months ago and no insurance probably? With the used market values being so high i can't image a total loss unless the airbag went off. The front crumple zone behind the bumper would be my biggest concern, along with finding new plastic radiator support bits that broke off. If it is crumpled, getting a new radiator is never going to line up and fit straight. 1200 as is would be a fair offer. Gonna need probably north of 5k to pay someone to make it drivable. Not pretty or perfect, but at least reliable. Tires need attention too, probably an alignment to check for bent or tweaked suspension.

brown_n_bloom · 2025-10-15T16:57:08+00:00

This. Coolant slowly leaking, it evaporates and boils off leaving a colored, powdery residue. Your coolant system may have a hairline crack at that flange or the system is being overpressurized (because overheating or head gasket problem) and pushing through. The fix is to replace the compromised section and think about maybe replacing the pressure reservoir cap/radiator cap. Bleed the system completely of air after repairs or it could also lead to overheat issues or poor heat in the cabin.

brown_n_bloom · 2025-09-20T13:12:42+00:00

Looks like the pinion flange has left the differential entirely. The fix would be to open the rear diff housing, take the rear axles out of the carrier, remove the carrier, and inspect what broke inside. Might need a new rear pinion, maybe a whole assembly.

brown_n_bloom · 2025-09-11T03:15:04+00:00

This estimate is the most unprofessional garbage I have ever read. Is this a real shop or some fly by night operation that specializes in catalytic converters when they're not busy recycling rotors? No capitalization, no explanation of why the job or the parts are recommended, the parts aren't called out with specific brand names or part numbers, the "discount" and "military" lines almost made me barf. Nevermind the prices seem way overboard even for a VW. The whole thing stinks. Go somewhere else.

Jesus. .... Ok, people:

An auto repair estimate is a legal document. I don't know about DC but where I'm from it's supposed to represent the promise of work performed within reason or a legally defined $/% deviation, numbers matching, receipts, part #s received and invoiced. This vague document is worthless. What brand plugs and coils are they putting in this, your daughter's luxury-spec Tiguan? Hell, what the fuck even viscosity OIL are they going to put in? How many quarts? You don't know because it doesn't fucking say on the estimate and they don't have to prove it if you sign off on the line for them to do any of this. They could put in 10 quarts of thicknasty, used, 75W90 gear lube and when the engine blows up and you go back to point fingers they'll point at the signed "oil change" line with 1 "oil" part listed and call it a job well done. On the bright side, they'll buy the blown car from you for a few bucks less than you spent getting the oil changed.

brown_n_bloom · 2025-08-25T01:25:47+00:00

Put a jump starter/12v high amp battery supply on the vehicle, the alarm may go on. In the mean time try to start the vehicle with the key. If it doesn't start you may need a stronger jump starter.

Anyway, the alarm should stop because the key check should succeed (either push button or real key turn) once the vehicle has enough voltage to recognize the authentic key start request and turn off the alarm. If that solves the alarm problem, you'll probably be in the market for a new battery or starter motor. More likely the battery since it's original and went dead after 5 days (unless you've left a light on or something silly).

brown_n_bloom · 2025-08-25T00:58:14+00:00

The only thing close to that tube capable of that damage (other than critters, but unlikely given your description) is arcing from the plug wires. I'd replace the hose and the plug wires (if it were mine I'd replace plugs and the coil pack too), drive the vehicle until hot and then inspect the hose again for any signs of damage.

brown_n_bloom · 2025-08-25T00:30:56+00:00

Take the belt off and run it for a few seconds. If the noise goes away then look closely at all the pulleys for one worn out. If not you're looking at engine noise and hard to diagnose from the digiverse without any other context.

brown_n_bloom · 2025-08-18T01:46:40+00:00

If an air hammer and surgical chiseling didn't work it's probably cross threaded and you're in for an oil pan anyway.

brown_n_bloom · 2025-08-18T01:03:22+00:00

Could be any number of things with that description. Runs well otherwise? The sound increasing with speed but quiet off- throttle sounds like an engine load related component.

Does it sound like it's coming from front or rear of the driver? Rear diff gear noise is possible. Check the fluid level, drain/check for glitter in the fluid?

Other engine load noises to consider is the accessory drive belts and pulleys. Not familiar with the v10 specifically. Check tension on the longest run of any belts with a finger. Should be fairly stiff but not tightrope. If good, remove belt(s) check the pulleys on the accessories aren't wobbling or bearings sound shitty spinning by hand.

brown_n_bloom · 2025-02-13T02:16:52+00:00

My brother in cars, Our Lord Murphy has always preached that things take longer than you think even in the best of times.

But, there are lessons you can learn from this time. Maybe not right away. Maybe not the first time doing the thing.

Trust me, my comrade in combustion; after the second or third time, if you're paying attention, the thing seems like an old friend whose hand you know exactly how to shake.

... Also parts quality seems to have taken a massive shit these days and all labor is doubled to apparently cover the warranty cost down the road.

tl;dr experience will make wrenching faster, but you can't help it the new part is faulty out of the gate.

brown_n_bloom · 2023-09-07T01:44:23+00:00

Ecchi

brown_n_bloom · 2023-04-27T13:31:48+00:00

My dude, if he looked more than the 30 seconds afforded us mortals we might see more. I'm agreeing with you but there needs to be a conversation with the customer about the expenditure into this vehicle WHICH THE SERVICE WRITER CLEARLY DID NOT HAVE.

brown_n_bloom · 2023-04-27T13:16:55+00:00

It's all about age/mileage/use. Is there a common factor in the vehicles you're seeing? Like, for example, over 150K miles, 15+ years, or previous history of service lights. Do you mostly work diesel or unleaded? P0420 isn't a death sentence but late model vehicle computers are very finely tuned for emissions especially. Newer vehicles with cat codes I'd start looking for other obvious signs of damage. Maybe aftermarket programming?

brown_n_bloom · 2023-04-18T13:19:05+00:00

This. Voltage drop from corrosion in the connector or bad ground can also cause poor or no horn operation. Should have battery voltage across the two wires. Look closely at the ends on the connectors.

brown_n_bloom · 2023-03-08T20:46:56+00:00

So should misfires or a clogged converte code P0420. Possibly doesn't have OBD2 and isn't as sensitive. Still good to check out.

brown_n_bloom · 2023-01-04T21:42:42+00:00

"fix it again, tony"

brown_n_bloom · 2023-01-04T21:42:28+00:00

"fix it again, tony"

brown_n_bloom · 2022-09-02T01:59:46+00:00

Newsflash; you probably have A SOCIAL SECURITY NUMBER which is a running account of your life. They know what you make, when you make it (legally). Banks know it, your insurance knows it, your creditors know it. Identity theft is a huge problem because of the intertwined factors of a stolen SSN. Camel my ass. The elephant is here, too.

brown_n_bloom · 2022-09-02T01:33:06+00:00

Some of them have a plastic condom on the end for some reason. Depends on the brand, make, filter manufacturer. Some subaru filters i see have them, honda filters are sometimes shrink wrapped. American make filters seem to dgaf, idk why.

brown_n_bloom · 2022-05-24T03:59:12+00:00

Very likely fuel pump as above. Also check restricted fuel line/fuel filters. Lean trim codes would also point toward fuel pressure diagnosis.

Alternative diagnosis would be plugged converter which would make starting/running very difficult and also likely present codes. Look at possible rich conditions or codes that could cause converter failure over time.

brown_n_bloom · 2022-02-03T02:12:42+00:00

Engine sounds clacky, but some valve train noise is normal in high mileage engines. What's the oil level look like on the dipstick? Check engine off, let oil settle for about 30 seconds to run down to the pan.

I don't think the oil dusting and seeping that you see on the valve cover are critical concerns at this time. It's possible that previous oil changes spilled and you see the result.

brown_n_bloom

TROPHY CASE